Yo2 sticky lock

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
User avatar
SpyderNut
Member
Posts: 7725
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Location: Hoosier Country, USA
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby SpyderNut » Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:06 pm

chuck_roxas45 wrote:
SpyderNut wrote: Not a lube at all. Lube will likely make it worse (at least from my testing). I'm talking more about pencil lead graphite. It is more of a "powder" than anything. For some reason, it works quite well on sticky locks. I've used it on a number of my custom and production knives with good success.
You really should research more before you make statements like that.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant

It is a stopgap measure because when it's gone you have to reapply. It works temporarily. That is stopgap for me. That is my opinion. You really can't argue with me on what my opinion is.
Hmm. You seem to have misunderstood my entire point, Chuck. I was talking about using pencils only, as in the good old #2 pencils. A mechanical pencil works well too. No lubes. I am aware there are graphite lubes on the market, but that is not what I was referring to.
No worries, though. I'll be on my way now. Sorry for the advice.
:spyder: Michael Reinhold

"...as I said before, 'the edge is a wondrous thing', [but] in all of it's qualities, it is still a ghost." - sal

Spideyhole
Member
Posts: 74
Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2016 3:33 pm

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Spideyhole » Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:14 pm

This just keeps getting worse. The detent ball just fell out of the knife! Was just opening and closing trying to figure out this sticky lock when wallah, no detent ball anymore. And when I look for where it should be there is not one. Must have just popped out. Sending this POS back and while I will of course be buying many other Spydies, this will never be one.

User avatar
chuck_roxas45
Member
Posts: 8677
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:43 pm
Location: Small City, Philippines
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby chuck_roxas45 » Tue Jun 21, 2016 6:17 pm

SpyderNut wrote:
Hmm. You seem to have misunderstood my entire point, Chuck. I was talking about using pencils only, as in the good old #2 pencils. A mechanical pencil works well too. No lubes. I am aware there are graphite lubes on the market, but that is not what I was referring to.
No worries, though. I'll be on my way now. Sorry for the advice.
I understood quite well. The misunderstanding seems to be on your part.

I have been aware of the pencil trick for some time now. Why do you think the pencil trick works? That's because you are putting a minute amount of graphite powder between the lock face and the lock bar and that miniscule amount of graphite works to reduce the friction between the two surfaces. Graphite reduces the friction between two surfaces because it has a low friction coefficient between it's molecules and that is the reason it works as a dry lubricant.

When using graphite(or pencil lead) to reduce friction between the engagement surfaces of a lock, the graphite is functioning as a lube(reducing the friction of a sticky lock thereby making it smoother). When the graphite is gone, you have to reapply, that is temporary in my book and hence to me, stopgap. Besides, I use my folders for food prep often and I don't want any more carbon with my food.

User avatar
Cheddarnut
Member
Posts: 1151
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2011 12:14 am
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Cheddarnut » Tue Jun 21, 2016 8:37 pm

Its a design detail, as a self defense blade the lock needs a failsafe to ensure it stays open so they purposefully manufacture the stick into the lock.

User avatar
Spey
Member
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:22 am
Location: PacNW

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Spey » Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:03 pm

chuck_roxas45 wrote:
SpyderNut wrote:
Hmm. You seem to have misunderstood my entire point, Chuck. I was talking about using pencils only, as in the good old #2 pencils. A mechanical pencil works well too. No lubes. I am aware there are graphite lubes on the market, but that is not what I was referring to.
No worries, though. I'll be on my way now. Sorry for the advice.
I understood quite well. The misunderstanding seems to be on your part.

I have been aware of the pencil trick for some time now. Why do you think the pencil trick works? That's because you are putting a minute amount of graphite powder between the lock face and the lock bar and that miniscule amount of graphite works to reduce the friction between the two surfaces. Graphite reduces the friction between two surfaces because it has a low friction coefficient between it's molecules and that is the reason it works as a dry lubricant.

When using graphite(or pencil lead) to reduce friction between the engagement surfaces of a lock, the graphite is functioning as a lube(reducing the friction of a sticky lock thereby making it smoother). When the graphite is gone, you have to reapply, that is temporary in my book and hence to me, stopgap. Besides, I use my folders for food prep often and I don't want any more carbon with my food.
edit: Spydernut, (apologies SpyderNut)
chuck_roxas45,
Out of curiosity, what foods do you prep often that do not contain carbon by nature?

Additionally, I believe you have additional misconceptions related to the subject of this thread. Hopefully this can be understood by your consideration of my comments here ... vs. your existing knowledge/understanding on the subject.

RE: "That is my opinion. You really can't argue with me on what my opinion is."
If your opinions are beyond reform, please simply disregard my entire post here as I do not make any attempt to be argumentative.
-------------------------------------


To the OP, and others of interest ...
In my personal experience pencil lead (carbon/graphite) many times helps to reduce lock-stick during break-in of a knife. Sometimes a single application is all that's needed, AND can be a permanent solution, sometimes 2-3 applications over time are needed over increasing periods of time between applications (please consider the last paragraph of this post as to why/how this may work). It is my guess that initially the graphite & wax/grease of wood-case "pencil-lead" can work as a lubricant, long-term the ceramic/clay works as an abrasive to mate/smooth the surfaces. Sometimes a knife needs a little more physical help (removal of a bur on the face/edge of the lock-bar, cleaning of lubricants from the mating surfaces, etc., etc.) depending on the related specifics of the knife & specific issue.

Mechanical pencil lead on the other hand; (many/most) are actually a polymer composite and can leave a polymer residue that increases/prolongs lock-stick. I have noticed it can leave a plastic like film that is bad in locks, pivots, etc. After initial application it seems to improve lock-stick, but BAD results over time though (my personal experiences). The polymer film that develops over time must be mechanically scraped from the metal to remove it, and can easily be overlooked if not previously experienced. On a bearing-pivot knife, this film can get into the bearing system and be even more problematic on cased-bearing pivot assemblies. I realise this is a bit off the subject of lock-stick, but relevant to my comments related to defining "pencil lead" (mechanical vs. wood-case) as used in this discussion and knife maintenance in general. BTW, as I have stated elsewhere there are also "other" types of "pencil lead" that can also be used but the specific composition & intended purpose of use must be considered.

RE: standard pencil lead or wood cased ceramic lead (wood provides the structural integrity vs polymer based lead). It is my belief that the reason standard pencil lead "can" effect a long term break-in solution to lock-stick is because of its composition (primarily a mixture of graphite, clay and grease/wax). The small and equally distributed amounts of clay (ceramic) works as an abrasive to smooth the mating surfaces against one-another over time. In my experience, all "pencil lead" is NOT created equal and may be on the reason some have better luck with this method. Ignorance = variable/bad results much of the time that are many times misinterpreted by user.

Hopefully something of use, to someone of interest. These are simply my experiences, your mileage may vary differentially ;-)

Regards,
Last edited by Spey on Wed Jun 29, 2016 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
chuck_roxas45
Member
Posts: 8677
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:43 pm
Location: Small City, Philippines
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby chuck_roxas45 » Tue Jun 28, 2016 7:06 pm

This really is why I stopped posting on forums like these.

People who want to impose their "superior knowledge and experience" when it is not required nor wanted. Often these "enlightenings" can turn to pissing contests.

@Spey: I am the OP not Spydernut. When he first suggested pencils for sticky locks I said that I did not want that kind of solution. That's my opinion and preference. Nobody can change or argue with that.

The next thing I know, I have been dragged into a discussion on the finer details of pencil lead. Ridiculous.

User avatar
Donut
Member
Posts: 9289
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:47 pm
Location: Virginia Beach, VA, USA

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Donut » Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:11 pm

I hear that if you stop using a Yojimbo 2 on peanut butter and jelly, the progressive lock stickiness goes away. :)


I don't know that I know a solution to your problem. Have you tried polishing and/or using sandpaper on the stop pin? (I'm not sure which one is the better method to try first.)

I always thought that the pencil trick was to stop titanium on steel from binding up. This one is steel on steel.
-Brian
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak, Pingo, and Cliptools with a Split Spring!

User avatar
Evil D
Member
Posts: 20507
Joined: Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:48 pm
Location: Northern KY

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Evil D » Tue Jun 28, 2016 8:59 pm

Spideyhole wrote:This just keeps getting worse. The detent ball just fell out of the knife! Was just opening and closing trying to figure out this sticky lock when wallah, no detent ball anymore. And when I look for where it should be there is not one. Must have just popped out. Sending this POS back and while I will of course be buying many other Spydies, this will never be one.
Eh, I understand how a bad experience can put you off, but I own 4 of them and have never had these problems. If you like the knife, just get a replacement.
SHARPEN IT LIKE YOU LOVE IT, USE IT LIKE YOU HATE IT
~David

User avatar
chuck_roxas45
Member
Posts: 8677
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:43 pm
Location: Small City, Philippines
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby chuck_roxas45 » Tue Jun 28, 2016 10:02 pm

Donut wrote:I hear that if you stop using a Yojimbo 2 on peanut butter and jelly, the progressive lock stickiness goes away. :)


I don't know that I know a solution to your problem. Have you tried polishing and/or using sandpaper on the stop pin? (I'm not sure which one is the better method to try first.)

I always thought that the pencil trick was to stop titanium on steel from binding up. This one is steel on steel.
Hey Brian, I just rotated the stop pin and the stickiness(that was getting worse) went back to just slightly sticky. Which was where it was when I got it. I can live with it as it is right now.

I guess I'll go back to using my S90V para to scoop and spread peanut butter and jelly since that one is perfect. :D

User avatar
Spey
Member
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:22 am
Location: PacNW

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Spey » Wed Jun 29, 2016 5:34 am

chuck_roxas45 wrote:This really is why I stopped posting on forums like these.

People who want to impose their "superior knowledge and experience" when it is not required nor wanted. Often these "enlightenings" can turn to pissing contests.

@Spey: I am the OP not Spydernut. When he first suggested pencils for sticky locks I said that I did not want that kind of solution. That's my opinion and preference. Nobody can change or argue with that.

The next thing I know, I have been dragged into a discussion on the finer details of pencil lead. Ridiculous.
If for any reason you feel you are engaged in a pissing contest that is in any way coming from my direction, that sucks. And, that would be hard to argue ;-)

I was mearly sharing some things I have learned, where I had previously made ignorant assumptions (dumb on me, I hear coming from you loud and clear).

I pretty much thought Brock O Lee covered most bases I would have (especially on a compression-lock). Most of which could be performed with one stuck stop-screw. Having not commented back yet on the results of that first recommendation to your OP, your thread continued as they do.

Sorry if you feel any disregard for my motives in this thread (helping others from past trials). Once again you illustrate to me that the more I learn, the less I know (and unfortunately the less I care to share).

Regards,

User avatar
Donut
Member
Posts: 9289
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:47 pm
Location: Virginia Beach, VA, USA

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Donut » Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:02 pm

By the way, I've had a Yojimbo 2 that I got in a trade... and it had about the most unreasonably sticky lock. I'm about convinced that it was just the lock bar was over bent and had too much tension on it.

I really don't think there are many things that can go wrong with the compression lock. It's either the lock bar has too much tension or not.

I don't feel confident enough at bending a lock bar to get it to the correct tension. Luckily, I sent it back to Golden and they were able to make it better.


I do know that sending it back to Golden isn't an option for you.
-Brian
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak, Pingo, and Cliptools with a Split Spring!

User avatar
Liquid Cobra
Member
Posts: 6237
Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2013 11:38 pm
Location: British Columbia, CANADA

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Liquid Cobra » Wed Jun 29, 2016 6:43 pm

I'm not sure if this will help but yesterday I fully disassembled my yojimbo 2, cleaned it out, lubed the pivot and applied some grease to the detent. I managed to eliminate the lock stick, the blade play and the blade now swings freely.

The lock stick probably went away when I removed the lock bar and then put it back in in a different position.
Most recently acquired: Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra

User avatar
Sully
Member
Posts: 214
Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2014 3:03 pm
Location: Island of Misfit Toys

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Sully » Wed Jun 29, 2016 8:13 pm

This veered oddly antagonistic, no idea why. I do know I learned a new budget-friendly possible cure for a sticky lock. I now even know why a #2 pencil might actually fix such a sticky situation. So thanks SpyderNut and Spey for graciously and generously sharing your very helpful knowledge with all of us.
“Damned infernal gizmo. My kingdom for a left-handed can opener!" — Mr. Burns, The Simpsons

LEFTIES MATTER. Thank you, Mr. Sal Glesser ... and Mrs. Gail Glesser!

User avatar
chuck_roxas45
Member
Posts: 8677
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:43 pm
Location: Small City, Philippines
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby chuck_roxas45 » Thu Jun 30, 2016 4:07 am

Sully wrote:This veered oddly antagonistic, no idea why. I do know I learned a new budget-friendly possible cure for a sticky lock. I now even know why a #2 pencil might actually fix such a sticky situation. So thanks SpyderNut and Spey for graciously and generously sharing your very helpful knowledge with all of us.
Somebody got butt hurt when I said his advice wasn't for me...

BTW, did you already know how the oil in your car works?

User avatar
Spey
Member
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:22 am
Location: PacNW

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Spey » Thu Jun 30, 2016 5:09 am

chuck_roxas45,

Have you effected any of the suggestions that Brock O Lee made in the second post, of the first page of your thread yet? And the results ...?

I am sure those following this thread would appreciate constructive followup by the OP regarding the assistance you asked the forum to provide you.

Look frwd the your problems resolve, and hope you care enough to share back to the community.

User avatar
senorsquare
Member
Posts: 1513
Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:34 am
Location: Lotta Rock, AR

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby senorsquare » Thu Jun 30, 2016 6:10 am

chuck_roxas45 wrote:
SpyderNut wrote:
I gotcha. The graphite concept is not really a stopgap measure. It works. Just tryin' to help. ;)
It's just a lube, what happens when the lube's gone?
When the lube is gone, you apply more lube :D

The lock on my PM2 gets sticky and it appears to be due to rust on the stop pin. I put some tuf-glide on the stop pin and that seems to have alleviated the problem...for now. I'll probably have to do it again at some point.

User avatar
senorsquare
Member
Posts: 1513
Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:34 am
Location: Lotta Rock, AR

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby senorsquare » Thu Jun 30, 2016 6:10 am

chuck_roxas45 wrote:
SpyderNut wrote:
I gotcha. The graphite concept is not really a stopgap measure. It works. Just tryin' to help. ;)
It's just a lube, what happens when the lube's gone?
When the lube is gone, you apply more lube :D

The lock on my PM2 gets sticky and the culprit appears to be rust on the stop pin. I put some tuf-glide on the stop pin and that seems to have alleviated the problem...for now. But I'll probably have to do it again at some point.

User avatar
Sully
Member
Posts: 214
Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2014 3:03 pm
Location: Island of Misfit Toys

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby Sully » Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:44 am

chuck_roxas45 wrote:
Sully wrote:This veered oddly antagonistic, no idea why. I do know I learned a new budget-friendly possible cure for a sticky lock. I now even know why a #2 pencil might actually fix such a sticky situation. So thanks SpyderNut and Spey for graciously and generously sharing your very helpful knowledge with all of us.
Somebody got butt hurt when I said his advice wasn't for me...

BTW, did you already know how the oil in your car works?
You asked for help. Got generous help. Then got inexplicably testy about it, offended even. Seems only you got "butt hurt." BTW, try some lube. :D

Others, myself included, learn from the advice in random threads. Appreciate anyone taking the time to share their thoughts and ideas, regardless if I already know the helpful hints suggested. Perhaps you were just having a bad day. If so, hope things are looking up for you (and your Yo2) today. :)
“Damned infernal gizmo. My kingdom for a left-handed can opener!" — Mr. Burns, The Simpsons

LEFTIES MATTER. Thank you, Mr. Sal Glesser ... and Mrs. Gail Glesser!

User avatar
chuck_roxas45
Member
Posts: 8677
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:43 pm
Location: Small City, Philippines
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby chuck_roxas45 » Thu Jun 30, 2016 12:49 pm

senorsquare wrote:
chuck_roxas45 wrote: It's just a lube, what happens when the lube's gone?
When the lube is gone, you apply more lube :D
That's precisely what I said. I don't like a temporary solution which is what lubing a sticky pivot is.

The guy argued that it wasn't a lube. Then I explained why it absolutely was a lube. And that when the lube is gone, you have to apply more.

User avatar
chuck_roxas45
Member
Posts: 8677
Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2010 5:43 pm
Location: Small City, Philippines
Contact:

Re: Yo2 sticky lock

Postby chuck_roxas45 » Thu Jun 30, 2016 12:59 pm

Sully wrote:
You asked for help. Got generous help. Then got inexplicably testy about it, offended even. Seems only you got "butt hurt." BTW, try some lube. :D
Here you go.
SpyderNut wrote:
Sorry to hear about the sticky locks. I've experienced this also on my own Yo2. One thing you may want to try is to apply some graphite to the tang of the blade on the lock face (a pencil lead works great for this). Open and close the blade several times to work the graphite onto the lock face and locking tab. I've had good success with this method on a few knives. Avoid oil/lube in the lock area as it will only add to the stickiness of the lock. Hope this helps.
chuck_roxas45 wrote: Thanks but I'm not really one for stopgap measures like graphite on the lock face.

Here's where it started to go bad.
SpyderNut wrote:
I gotcha. The graphite concept is not really a stopgap measure. It works. Just tryin' to help. ;)
chuck_roxas45 wrote: It's just a lube, what happens when the lube's gone?
Here's the wrong info that he insisted on giving me.
SpyderNut wrote:
Not a lube at all. Lube will likely make it worse (at least from my testing). I'm talking more about pencil lead graphite. It is more of a "powder" than anything. For some reason, it works quite well on sticky locks. I've used it on a number of my custom and production knives with good success.
I don't like wrong info because I have known for years that graphite is used as a dry lubricant so I replied with this.
chuck_roxas45 wrote: You really should research more before you make statements like that.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant

It is a stopgap measure because when it's gone you have to reapply. It works temporarily. That is stopgap for me. That is my opinion. You really can't argue with me on what my opinion is.
Then he insisted on his wrong info some more making it seem like I misunderstood.
SpyderNut wrote: Hmm. You seem to have misunderstood my entire point, Chuck. I was talking about using pencils only, as in the good old #2 pencils. A mechanical pencil works well too. No lubes. I am aware there are graphite lubes on the market, but that is not what I was referring to.
No worries, though. I'll be on my way now. Sorry for the advice.
My testiness came from the insistence that I didn't know what I was talking about when I said that graphite or whatever the heck pencil lead is, isn't working as a lube when used for sticky locks and that he presented his opinion as fact when he stated that it was a permanent solution.

I hope that you can wrap your head around that.


When I stated that I didn't prefer his solution, he should have stopped the condescension and that would have ended that.
Last edited by chuck_roxas45 on Thu Jun 30, 2016 1:19 pm, edited 4 times in total.


Return to “Spyderco General Discussion”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: attila, geronm042, Google [Bot], koenigsegg, Majestic-12 [Bot] and 18 guests