Oh yah, I'm middle finger flicking my Yo2. Seems to be better for this knife. My detent is fine actually, it's closing it that the sticky lock becomes unpleasant.DougC-3 wrote:A little off the subject, but I think I remember that a year or two ago you mentioned that your Yo2 didn't always open reliably. Mine had a slightly firm detent too and took a fair amount of thumb pressure to reliably open. I have been meaning to mention to you that I finally got around to trying middle finger flick, and it always opens reliably that way. I was wondering if you had tried that or perhaps didn't care for that technique. I have a PM2 with a sticky detent and admit that I have thumped it halfway across the room once with the middle finger flick
Ahh hehe, thanks. For a while there I kind of wondered.JT wrote:Chuck, just to clarify, my hint was for the loctite, not for the sticky lock
Dang, your having all kinds of bad luck, sorry to hear. Not really sure what to advise that's not already been said. My S90V exclusive has some lock stick, it was real bad when new. I had small/short lived success with sharpie and/or pencil on the lock face and it did get better over time but it still has a little from time to time, I don't really carry it a lot so decided to just live with it.Spideyhole wrote:I just got a Yo in the mail today and the specimen is superb but the lock stick is horrible. I love to flip open my knives all day as a sort of therapy, but not this knife. Sad thing is this is my 3rd attempt at getting one of these that is just right. My first was way way off center and nothing I did fixed it. My second had really rough grind lines on blade, and now my third has this horrible lock stick.
I give up on this knife.
Sorry to hear that OPSpideyhole wrote:I just got a Yo in the mail today and the specimen is superb but the lock stick is horrible. I love to flip open my knives all day as a sort of therapy, but not this knife. Sad thing is this is my 3rd attempt at getting one of these that is just right. My first was way way off center and nothing I did fixed it. My second had really rough grind lines on blade, and now my third has this horrible lock stick.
I give up on this knife.
chuck_roxas45 wrote:I have been carrying my Yo2 these days. It's always had a slightly sticky lock but it seems to have gotten worse with use. Any suggestions or ideas for a fix? Thanks in advance.
Hey Chuck and SpideyHole,Spideyhole wrote:I just got a Yo in the mail today and the specimen is superb but the lock stick is horrible. I love to flip open my knives all day as a sort of therapy, but not this knife. Sad thing is this is my 3rd attempt at getting one of these that is just right. My first was way way off center and nothing I did fixed it. My second had really rough grind lines on blade, and now my third has this horrible lock stick.
And I am not go a take it apart and operate on it to try and fix it. It should never have left the factory like this. Man, after about 10 open and closes my fore finger is raw.
On a positive note, the blade is freakin gorgeous on this one. Why is it always something with this model for me?!
I give up on this knife.
Thanks but I'm not really one for stopgap measures like graphite on the lock face.SpyderNut wrote: Hey Chuck and SpideyHole,
Sorry to hear about the sticky locks. I've experienced this also on my own Yo2. One thing you may want to try is to apply some graphite to the tang of the blade on the lock face (a pencil lead works great for this). Open and close the blade several times to work the graphite onto the lock face and locking tab. I've had good success with this method on a few knives. Avoid oil/lube in the lock area as it will only add to the stickiness of the lock. Hope this helps.
I gotcha. The graphite concept is not really a stopgap measure. It works. Just tryin' to help.chuck_roxas45 wrote:Thanks but I'm not really one for stopgap measures like graphite on the lock face.SpyderNut wrote: Hey Chuck and SpideyHole,
Sorry to hear about the sticky locks. I've experienced this also on my own Yo2. One thing you may want to try is to apply some graphite to the tang of the blade on the lock face (a pencil lead works great for this). Open and close the blade several times to work the graphite onto the lock face and locking tab. I've had good success with this method on a few knives. Avoid oil/lube in the lock area as it will only add to the stickiness of the lock. Hope this helps.
It's just a lube, what happens when the lube's gone?SpyderNut wrote:
I gotcha. The graphite concept is not really a stopgap measure. It works. Just tryin' to help.
Not a lube at all. Lube will likely make it worse (at least from my testing). I'm talking more about pencil lead graphite. It is more of a "powder" than anything. For some reason, it works quite well on sticky locks. I've used it on a number of my custom and production knives with good success.chuck_roxas45 wrote:It's just a lube, what happens when the lube's gone?SpyderNut wrote:
I gotcha. The graphite concept is not really a stopgap measure. It works. Just tryin' to help.
You really should research more before you make statements like that.SpyderNut wrote: Not a lube at all. Lube will likely make it worse (at least from my testing). I'm talking more about pencil lead graphite. It is more of a "powder" than anything. For some reason, it works quite well on sticky locks. I've used it on a number of my custom and production knives with good success.
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