52100 Military, what are your plans?

[Mikael Andersson]

What rust resistance? Its a carbon steel.

So rust resistance = zero?

Basically. This is one of those steels you classify as low quality so probably best if you skip this one

Nooo, I think that rust is good on a blade and AUS-8 is simply the best.

[SpeedHoles]

...some bizarre sarcasm going on in here... ?



And as far as whether or not this one gets the KW 204P design alterations or not, I won't be disappointed either way. Have been using my Cruwear Military for a long time now with no complaints. Stand offs aren't a big wow factor for me, and my Millie pivot has been rock solid as is (and this will allow me to do an easier scale swap if I get tired of the carbon fiber).

[DrtyHarry]

This is getting kinda silly....I have never waited this long for a knife. A 1911...yes, but a production folder (S110V) and a Sprint? Cmon....Spyderco sent me an email saying they would ship early June. That's another week or so. We shall see...

[Evil D]

This is getting kinda silly....I have never waited this long for a knife. A 1911...yes, but a production folder (S110V) and a Sprint? Cmon....Spyderco sent me an email saying they would ship early June. That's another week or so. We shall see...

Well, can't really blame Spyderco, they didn't put the preorder out. Really we do it to ourselves. If there were production setbacks that's another story. People waiting a year to get the fluted Ti Military..

[SpeedHoles]

This is getting kinda silly....I have never waited this long for a knife. A 1911...yes, but a production folder (S110V) and a Sprint? Cmon....Spyderco sent me an email saying they would ship early June. That's another week or so. We shall see...

What other Sprints have you waited for?
It's always a game of patience, nothing new, all part of it.


And yeah, the preorder is not a Spyderco thing. KC has preorders available for knives that haven't even been announced for official production yet!?
Like going to a third party car lot and placing an order for a 2018 car, then getting mad at the car manufacturer because you haven't gotten it yet.

[DrtyHarry]

LOL...yeah, KC has done that with a few knives. But on the other hand, Bento is taking pre-orders but charging really silly prices.

[farnorthdan]

Anticipation/waiting is part of the Spydie game, I actually don't mind waiting on special pieces and like the conversations that evolve during the wait, then as drop time gets closer the excitement builds, then the drop happens and the mad scramble to snag one of the first happens, then it comes in the mail to be enjoyed. And it all starts again. Spydies are the best, well worth the wait. :D

[DrtyHarry]

I hear ya...it's just that this time around I am moving to another country and want to pick these pieces up before I leave. Not like they are holding me back...but don't want to have to make other arrangements, worry about customs, etc...just want them all ready and be done. I'll be good with my Millie and PM2s for a very long time...heck, I even have extra blades and scales for my standard SV30 versions. I will admit, I am VERY excited to see how the Millie in S110V performs. I was amazed with it on the PM2...I think it will become the most used folder in my EDC rotation. And it is even more exciting when those super steel experts tell me that the 52100 is going to top all of the Millies/Sprint Runs. Will it? I don't know. I keep toying with the notion of changing my order to two 52100s instead of 1 52100 and 1 S110V....since the S110V is going to be a production model, and the 52100....a Sprint Run of 1000 pieces is only $30 more. Ugh....decisions decisions!!! LOL

[Evil D]

I hear ya...it's just that this time around I am moving to another country and want to pick these pieces up before I leave. Not like they are holding me back...but don't want to have to make other arrangements, worry about customs, etc...just want them all ready and be done. I'll be good with my Millie and PM2s for a very long time...heck, I even have extra blades and scales for my standard SV30 versions. I will admit, I am VERY excited to see how the Millie in S110V performs. I was amazed with it on the PM2...I think it will become the most used folder in my EDC rotation. And it is even more exciting when those super steel experts tell me that the 52100 is going to top all of the Millies/Sprint Runs. Will it? I don't know. I keep toying with the notion of changing my order to two 52100s instead of 1 52100 and 1 S110V....since the S110V is going to be a production model, and the 52100....a Sprint Run of 1000 pieces is only $30 more. Ugh....decisions decisions!!! LOL

I think the fastest route to disappointment is comparing these steels against each other and simply expecting one to be better than the other. They are so different in so many ways it's going to be really easy to say one is better than the other when you focus on specific traits, like wear resistance I think it's safe to say the S110V will hold an edge far longer than 52100, but will also be far more challenging to sharpen and keep sharp.

The thing I'm most curious about with 52100 is how tough it is, because for me S110V has been far more tough than people make it out to be. I'm also looking forward to thinning out the edge and seeing how it excels at edge stability.

These two steels are among the top of the pile in the attributes they are really good at, but comparing them directly to each other I think is going to make you disappointed with one or the other depending on what attributes you value the most in a steel, and that's a real shame because these are both amazing steels for what they are and what they excel at doing.

[DougC-3]

This ^^ plus, of course, how you happen to feel about rust and corrosion and going to the trouble to avoid it, since these two are opposite extremes in that regard.

[Evil D]

This ^^ plus, of course, how you happen to feel about rust and corrosion and going to the trouble to avoid it, since these two are opposite extremes in that regard.

The interesting thing about rust is even in the worst case scenario, a blade is still plenty usable. The most important thing is to protect the pivot and lock face. The rest can be completely rusted to the point that it doesn't have any shine left to it at all and you can still rub the finish out and stabilize it and sharpen it and use it. You would have to neglect a blade to the point that it pitted so severely that the pivot action and lock face were damaged, or the edge was rusted so bad that it became too brittle to take an edge. At that point if you're that careless and neglect your knife that much, you should probably just stick with H1.

I've recently changed jobs and work in all weather conditions now. Today I worked in a full on thunderstorm downpour and couldn't have been more wet if I jumped into a pool. I still plan on carrying this Military even in rain and snow. I'll work up a natural patina on the blade and Tuf Glide the pivot and lock face and then let nature take it's course. If rust happens, so be it.

[DougC-3]

This ^^ plus, of course, how you happen to feel about rust and corrosion and going to the trouble to avoid it, since these two are opposite extremes in that regard.

The interesting thing about rust is even in the worst case scenario, a blade is still plenty usable. The most important thing is to protect the pivot and lock face. The rest can be completely rusted to the point that it doesn't have any shine left to it at all and you can still rub the finish out and stabilize it and sharpen it and use it. You would have to neglect a blade to the point that it pitted so severely that the pivot action and lock face were damaged, or the edge was rusted so bad that it became too brittle to take an edge. At that point if you're that careless and neglect your knife that much, you should probably just stick with H1.

I've recently changed jobs and work in all weather conditions now. Today I worked in a full on thunderstorm downpour and couldn't have been more wet if I jumped into a pool. I still plan on carrying this Military even in rain and snow. I'll work up a natural patina on the blade and Tuf Glide the pivot and lock face and then let nature take it's course. If rust happens, so be it.

I was just thinking about putting Tuf Glide in the pivot when I get mine. I usually just use FrogLube CLP in my Cruwear, because I sometimes peel and cut fruits and vegetables with it and I doubt that Tuf Glide is too potable, but I clean the blade beforehand and try to keep liquid away from the pivot, so it probably wouldn't make much difference with food contamination. I'm looking forward to whatever happens to the rest of the blade with normal use and won't try to do anything about patina and staining unless it gets really rough looking.

[Evil D]

This ^^ plus, of course, how you happen to feel about rust and corrosion and going to the trouble to avoid it, since these two are opposite extremes in that regard.

The interesting thing about rust is even in the worst case scenario, a blade is still plenty usable. The most important thing is to protect the pivot and lock face. The rest can be completely rusted to the point that it doesn't have any shine left to it at all and you can still rub the finish out and stabilize it and sharpen it and use it. You would have to neglect a blade to the point that it pitted so severely that the pivot action and lock face were damaged, or the edge was rusted so bad that it became too brittle to take an edge. At that point if you're that careless and neglect your knife that much, you should probably just stick with H1.

I've recently changed jobs and work in all weather conditions now. Today I worked in a full on thunderstorm downpour and couldn't have been more wet if I jumped into a pool. I still plan on carrying this Military even in rain and snow. I'll work up a natural patina on the blade and Tuf Glide the pivot and lock face and then let nature take it's course. If rust happens, so be it.

I was just thinking about putting Tuf Glide in the pivot when I get mine. I usually just use FrogLube CLP in my Cruwear, because I sometimes peel and cut fruits and vegetables with it and I doubt that Tuf Glide is too potable, but I clean the blade beforehand and try to keep liquid away from the pivot, so it probably wouldn't make much difference with food contamination. I'm looking forward to whatever happens to the rest of the blade with normal use and won't try to do anything about patina and staining unless it gets really rough looking.

I have a plan even if it gets really rough. I have carried this box knife for 16 years. The outside is aluminum but the inside is some kind of cheap mild steel and has rusted from sweat and being close to my body for so many years. But, what's interesting is that it's also been in my soft pocket for most of that time or was being used, so the surface has seen enough wear/rubbing/etc to polish out the rust. It has a really cool finish that has stabilized and never gets any worse than what you see here.

Call me crazy but I think a blade would look awesome like this, and once it reaches this level of patina you really don't have much more to worry about.




The surface reminds me of hammered iron.

[DrtyHarry]

I take VERY good care of ALL my knives. I take them apart and sharpen them all regularly as I have many that fit into my daily rotation. And because I do so, I have never had any issues with rust. However, I have spent most of my life living in the north east. I am now moving to the Mediterranean, and I know the atmosphere there will be a lot different with all the salt in the air, as I will literally be living on the beach. I spent a lot of time there, and the blades I keep there are S30V, S35V, and 154CM. Never had any problems with them...and all have been submerged in salt water many times. However, I do clean and sharpen all my gear/knives. The only reason I am not getting TWO 52100s, is because I really fell in love with all the traits that the S110V PM2 has. Of all the steels I have had to work with, I really like that steel the best thus far. Yes, it can take a lot more work to sharpen...I just don't let it get to that point. I use diamond rods to keep it sharp, and some leather to finish it off...I do so every so often as I found myself using my back up for most little shores and duties (back up being the PM2). There has yet to be anything the PM2 could not handle....I am really really impressed with that knife. With that said, I can only imagine how great the Millie is going to be. Part of me is toying with the notion of getting another 52100...and swap out the blade for a S110V blade...this way I have that awesome CF peel and the steel of my choice. However, if the 52100 performs the way I hope it does, than I will just leave it as is. I use these knives, gentleman. These don't go into a display case. I really like my standard Millies...my EDC Millie is S30V with a black coat. It's an older one....actually says "Military" on it and I feel naked without it. The Millie is a very dependable and strong knife, especially for the price and for how thin it is. I carry a fixed blade as well, but only use it when really needed. When I do carry a fixed blade, the Millie becomes my backup knife...not the PM2. Well...sometimes I carry the PM2 as well just because I like it so much...:)

[Mikael Andersson]

...some bizarre sarcasm going on in here... ?



And as far as whether or not this one gets the KW 204P design alterations or not, I won't be disappointed either way. Have been using my Cruwear Military for a long time now with no complaints. Stand offs aren't a big wow factor for me, and my Millie pivot has been rock solid as is (and this will allow me to do an easier scale swap if I get tired of the carbon fiber).

Yes, I'm quite laconic.

[DougC-3]

This ^^ plus, of course, how you happen to feel about rust and corrosion and going to the trouble to avoid it, since these two are opposite extremes in that regard.

The interesting thing about rust is even in the worst case scenario, a blade is still plenty usable. The most important thing is to protect the pivot and lock face. The rest can be completely rusted to the point that it doesn't have any shine left to it at all and you can still rub the finish out and stabilize it and sharpen it and use it. You would have to neglect a blade to the point that it pitted so severely that the pivot action and lock face were damaged, or the edge was rusted so bad that it became too brittle to take an edge. At that point if you're that careless and neglect your knife that much, you should probably just stick with H1.

I've recently changed jobs and work in all weather conditions now. Today I worked in a full on thunderstorm downpour and couldn't have been more wet if I jumped into a pool. I still plan on carrying this Military even in rain and snow. I'll work up a natural patina on the blade and Tuf Glide the pivot and lock face and then let nature take it's course. If rust happens, so be it.

I was just thinking about putting Tuf Glide in the pivot when I get mine. I usually just use FrogLube CLP in my Cruwear, because I sometimes peel and cut fruits and vegetables with it and I doubt that Tuf Glide is too potable, but I clean the blade beforehand and try to keep liquid away from the pivot, so it probably wouldn't make much difference with food contamination. I'm looking forward to whatever happens to the rest of the blade with normal use and won't try to do anything about patina and staining unless it gets really rough looking.

I have a plan even if it gets really rough. I have carried this box knife for 16 years. The outside is aluminum but the inside is some kind of cheap mild steel and has rusted from sweat and being close to my body for so many years. But, what's interesting is that it's also been in my soft pocket for most of that time or was being used, so the surface has seen enough wear/rubbing/etc to polish out the rust. It has a really cool finish that has stabilized and never gets any worse than what you see here.

Call me crazy but I think a blade would look awesome like this, and once it reaches this level of patina you really don't have much more to worry about.




The surface reminds me of hammered iron.

That's interesting. It makes me think of my old Solingen steel Tree Brand pocket knives I had as a kid, but they really looked more like 1095, without the rough surface.

[DougC-3]

I take VERY good care of ALL my knives. I take them apart and sharpen them all regularly as I have many that fit into my daily rotation. And because I do so, I have never had any issues with rust. However, I have spent most of my life living in the north east. I am now moving to the Mediterranean, and I know the atmosphere there will be a lot different with all the salt in the air, as I will literally be living on the beach. I spent a lot of time there, and the blades I keep there are S30V, S35V, and 154CM. Never had any problems with them...and all have been submerged in salt water many times. However, I do clean and sharpen all my gear/knives. The only reason I am not getting TWO 52100s, is because I really fell in love with all the traits that the S110V PM2 has. Of all the steels I have had to work with, I really like that steel the best thus far. Yes, it can take a lot more work to sharpen...I just don't let it get to that point. I use diamond rods to keep it sharp, and some leather to finish it off...I do so every so often as I found myself using my back up for most little shores and duties (back up being the PM2). There has yet to be anything the PM2 could not handle....I am really really impressed with that knife. With that said, I can only imagine how great the Millie is going to be. Part of me is toying with the notion of getting another 52100...and swap out the blade for a S110V blade...this way I have that awesome CF peel and the steel of my choice. However, if the 52100 performs the way I hope it does, than I will just leave it as is. I use these knives, gentleman. These don't go into a display case. I really like my standard Millies...my EDC Millie is S30V with a black coat. It's an older one....actually says "Military" on it and I feel naked without it. The Millie is a very dependable and strong knife, especially for the price and for how thin it is. I carry a fixed blade as well, but only use it when really needed. When I do carry a fixed blade, the Millie becomes my backup knife...not the PM2. Well...sometimes I carry the PM2 as well just because I like it so much...:)

If you do do that swap, I could probably help you find a home for that extra 52100 blade

[DrtyHarry]

Never! LOL...I have a few back up blades for my Millie, don't think I would let that one go!

[Evil D]

It would probably be cheaper to just order some custom scales than to buy a sprint run just to swap out the handle.

[farnorthdan]

It would probably be cheaper to just order some custom scales than to buy a sprint run just to swap out the handle.

+1, there are some really great options out there for the Military, I recently picked up a set of Micarta scales for my Cruwear and they only set me back $90.