Congrats dude! Need a job?? We could probably use ya...fanglekai wrote:Mine arrives today and I'm excited to try it out. Today is the last day I attend class for my mechanical engineering degree. I think a lefty PM2 is a nice reward to myself for graduating.
Thanks but I got an offer and accepted it a few months ago!mrtodd777 wrote:Congrats dude! Need a job?? We could probably use ya...fanglekai wrote:Mine arrives today and I'm excited to try it out. Today is the last day I attend class for my mechanical engineering degree. I think a lefty PM2 is a nice reward to myself for graduating.
My experience has been that the chamfering has varied from one PM2 model to another and sometimes maybe even one run to another. I personally favor the chamfering and think it makes the knife a good bit more comfortable to hold. Some people may like the more rectangular cross section with little chamfering because it may give them a more reliable grip when opening the knife, or maybe the lack of chamfering just saves production time. In any case, I wonder if there's a convenient way to quickly and neatly round over the edges of a G-10 scale without disassembling the knife.Douglas wrote:Just got mine. Very much like operating this lock the way it was designed to be used. I thought it might be my first Spydie that didn't need clip re-positioning, but while the clip was on the correct side it was set for tip-down carry so I had to switch it anyways.
One thing I notice is that the G10 has rather sharp edges compared to my RH PM3, which has a slight chamfer along the edge. I have to say the chamfer makes the knife considerably more comfortable in the hand, which makes me wonder why they would have changed that.
Thanks Nate. I'll try this on a couple of older ones and see what I think. As for PM2s, I think the natural G-10 M-4 exclusive has about the sharpest corners I've seen.Nate wrote:I chamfered/rounded the scales on my regular production camo PM2. Really simple mod you can do by hand pretty quick with some automotive sandpaper.
I think 220 or 320 would be decent grits to start with, everything else to suit. I always sand wet and/or wear a dust mask to make sure I'm not breathing in any nasty dust.
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