Spyderco knives that will increase in value?

[ZesT]

I know a couple days ago there was the glow in the dark Manix 2 Xl on massdrop, and you can still purchase the blurple Manix 2. Think either of those will increase in value?

[dplafoll]

Blurple I doubt, because it's a regular production model. I mean, it might to some extent, but not like the non-standard/sprint models. PM2 in Elmax is going to sell for more on the secondary market than the regular-production S110V blurple.

[SpyderNut]

I think it is safe to say that nearly all of Spyderco's models will increase in value at some point. Most of the current standard production models likely won't gain a tremendous amount of value (from a collector's standpoint) due to ease of availability.
It is difficult to determine which model (s) will go up in value, but history has shown that value does tend to go up on discontinued models. Sometimes a certain model may not gain much value until several years after it's been off the market (such as the original Dodo or Kukuri). Limited production models/Sprints/dealer exclusives and the like are generally safe bets for increasing future value.

[farnorthdan]

The production models probably wont increase, just sayin. I would be looking at sprints and exclusives if ROI is what your after, just look at the super blues, heck even the HAP's are starting to climb and we are in the middle of that run still. I've also noticed that the less popular models that get disco'd after just a year or two in production seem to gain in value once they are no longer available.

[demoncase]

I posted a long, rambling post on this in a similar thread a few months back- it boils down to:

1.Anything expensive new, sprint run or short run time will be hard to find- so the prices will be steady, if not increase
2. Aside from that- lick your finger and raise it in the air to see which way the wind is blowing

[zhyla]

I think that anything that derives its value from blade steel won't hold value over the long term. We get all excited over S110v today; 5 years from now that will be crap steel and everyone will want BFD-5000 because of its edge retention and magical powers.

Models (not variants) that are low volume in entirety will probably hold value best. I don't think low quantities of a variant of a production model will be that desirable. Exception: the plain edge Harpy, Mariner, etc are really rare and bring far more than the SE version.

[SG89]

2. Aside from that- lick your finger and raise it in the air to see which way the wind is blowing

Lmao!

[paladin]

No way of telling...

The best, most reliable way to maximize value <IMHO> is to settle on a model you like and will use then wait for a light user or NIB pop up on a secondary market...

Many guys get strapped for cash and then their guns & knives are usually among the first items liquidated-- often at steep discounts...

[zhyla]

No way of telling...

The best, most reliable way to maximize value <IMHO> is to settle on a model you like and will use then wait for a light user or NIB pop up on a secondary market...

Many guys get strapped for cash and then their guns & knives are usually among the first items liquidated-- often at steep discounts...

Definitely, buying used from knife nuts is ideal. I buy a lot of used Spydies on eBay and often find killer deals but it is a bit of a crapshoot as far as condition. Buying from a forum user that can warn you about blade play etc is preferred and usually reasonably priced. But trawling eBay is fun too :). My $30 eBay special Caly Jr Stainless is riding in my pocket today.

[paladin]

No way of telling...

The best, most reliable way to maximize value <IMHO> is to settle on a model you like and will use then wait for a light user or NIB pop up on a secondary market...

Many guys get strapped for cash and then their guns & knives are usually among the first items liquidated-- often at steep discounts...

Definitely, buying used from knife nuts is ideal. I buy a lot of used Spydies on eBay and often find killer deals but it is a bit of a crapshoot as far as condition. Buying from a forum user that can warn you about blade play etc is preferred and usually reasonably priced. But trawling eBay is fun too :). My $30 eBay special Caly Jr Stainless is riding in my pocket today.

Yessir...it is big fun to snipe those dream deals! That is an OUTSTANDING price for one of my favorite models :D

[farnorthdan]

No way of telling...

The best, most reliable way to maximize value <IMHO> is to settle on a model you like and will use then wait for a light user or NIB pop up on a secondary market...

Many guys get strapped for cash and then their guns & knives are usually among the first items liquidated-- often at steep discounts...

Definitely, buying used from knife nuts is ideal. I buy a lot of used Spydies on eBay and often find killer deals but it is a bit of a crapshoot as far as condition. Buying from a forum user that can warn you about blade play etc is preferred and usually reasonably priced. But trawling eBay is fun too :). My $30 eBay special Caly Jr Stainless is riding in my pocket today.

Yessir...it is big fun to snipe those dream deals! That is an OUTSTANDING price for one of my favorite models :D

+1, I've snagged some great deals on the bay, a few examples: M4 millie lightly used, light blade staining no box $175. Dyad Jr micarta mint condition w/box $65. SB Delica $100 NIB. Just snagged a Centofante Memory for $154 NIB. Sprint G10 Jester $30 LNIB but no box (EDC forum).

Spydie hunting is one of my favorite hobbies, there are deals out there for sure, just have to be patient and persistent. I have noticed though that screaming deals on the bay are getting very rare and like said, it can be a roll of the dice. For me the danger of getting a dud occasionally is worth the rewards, but that's just me.

[zhyla]

Snagged a G-2 Mariner for $44 last night. It was late, it was at $43, auction had an hour to go so I just threw a $65 bid up there fully expecting it to go for $100 as most do. Apparently I was the final bidder. Can't wait for it to get here. It looked ok from the pics. Blade play is always the main concern with the stainless handle models but I have learned how to fix horizontal play. I fixed vertical play once and dang it if I forgot how. I was going to do a how to thread on stainless Spydie refurbishment but got busy.

[farnorthdan]

Snagged a G-2 Mariner for $44 last night. It was late, it was at $43, auction had an hour to go so I just threw a $65 bid up there fully expecting it to go for $100 as most do. Apparently I was the final bidder. Can't wait for it to get here. It looked ok from the pics. Blade play is always the main concern with the stainless handle models but I have learned how to fix horizontal play. I fixed vertical play once and dang it if I forgot how. I was going to do a how to thread on stainless Spydie refurbishment but got busy.

I think I remember watching somewhere that you peen the lock bar face where it meets the blade and that tightens up vertical play, pretty sure someone posted a Utube on it.

[DougC-3]

Snagged a G-2 Mariner for $44 last night. It was late, it was at $43, auction had an hour to go so I just threw a $65 bid up there fully expecting it to go for $100 as most do. Apparently I was the final bidder. Can't wait for it to get here. It looked ok from the pics. Blade play is always the main concern with the stainless handle models but I have learned how to fix horizontal play. I fixed vertical play once and dang it if I forgot how. I was going to do a how to thread on stainless Spydie refurbishment but got busy.

I think I remember watching somewhere that you peen the lock bar face where it meets the blade and that tightens up vertical play, pretty sure someone posted a Utube on it.

Right, it's sometimes called "coining" -- I have a question about that. I have a Kiwi 4 with fairly bad vertical play, but there is only a barely discernible gap between the lock bar face and the blade (a thin hair's width). This makes me think that maybe there's some kind of movement around the pivot which might not respond to peening? Is "lock rock" different from the usual blade play which is caused by poor tolerances at the lock bar face and blade? Or would peening fix all types of vertical play?

Also I think I saw somewhere that someone sent a knife to Spyderco to have vertical play fixed for $25. Could this be right?

[vivi]

IMO most sprint runs are safe bets. They always seem to go up in value. Also the collabs with other knife designers that only stay in the catalog for a year or two.

[JD Spydo]

I think it is safe to say that nearly all of Spyderco's models will increase in value at some point. Most of the current standard production models likely won't gain a tremendous amount of value (from a collector's standpoint) due to ease of availability.
It is difficult to determine which model (s) will go up in value, but history has shown that value does tend to go up on discontinued models. Sometimes a certain model may not gain much value until several years after it's been off the market (such as the original Dodo or Kukuri). Limited production models/Sprints/dealer exclusives and the like are generally safe bets for increasing future value.

Spydernut pretty much said everything I would have said>> if you want to buy Spyders strictly from a collectible/investment play then I would certainly put most of my focus on most of the Sprint Runs. But don't overlook many of the older discontinued models that you can find on the secondary markets that are NIB ( new in the factory box). Also sets are great too>> for instance I have the PE & SE of the original skeletonized "R" model that I'm hoping will someday grow in value.

We recently had one of our forum members sell a Cranberry Lum on Ebay for over $1000>> I believe it was close to a year ago. Now that was a very rare and highly specialized model but it will show you the potential if you invest in the right ones. But do study up on what is high in demand before you go on a buyer's binge.

[bengaiser]

I think it is safe to say that nearly all of Spyderco's models will increase in value at some point. Most of the current standard production models likely won't gain a tremendous amount of value (from a collector's standpoint) due to ease of availability.
It is difficult to determine which model (s) will go up in value, but history has shown that value does tend to go up on discontinued models. Sometimes a certain model may not gain much value until several years after it's been off the market (such as the original Dodo or Kukuri). Limited production models/Sprints/dealer exclusives and the like are generally safe bets for increasing future value.

Spydernut pretty much said everything I would have said>> if you want to buy Spyders strictly from a collectible/investment play then I would certainly put most of my focus on most of the Sprint Runs. But don't overlook many of the older discontinued models that you can find on the secondary markets that are NIB ( new in the factory box). Also sets are great too>> for instance I have the PE & SE of the original skeletonized "R" model that I'm hoping will someday grow in value.

We recently had one of our forum members sell a Cranberry Lum on Ebay for over $1000>> I believe it was close to a year ago. Now that was a very rare and highly specialized model but it will show you the potential if you invest in the right ones. But do study up on what is high in demand before you go on a buyer's binge.

Just a note that the cranberry anodized aluminum Lum Chinese was only ever a prototype (I'm using the term loosely here, not differentiating between prototype, pre-production, production sample, pilot run, etc.), and never a production run. I'm not sure anyone invests in these at the prices they fetch, seems more like collecting to me. Similar to the rare Q variants.

Even 15 years ago these were expensive, though I suppose if you managed to pick up a few during the economic downturn you could make a decent profit reselling after the recovery. It's not as if they were growing on trees even then though. Add to that, what you are really doing is trying to "time the market" which is also difficult to impossible to do even for the professional investors out there.

That being said, there are many I would get if I could go back in time :D

[akaAK]

Thinking about how knives will increase in value changes this from a hobby to a business in my mind. I look for knives I like or want to have.

[cckw]

This could be my attitude/patience but it seems that sprints do not increase in value like they used to. I used to buy one or two of every sprint for my collection. A couple years ago I had a new priority and sold off most of the collection. I made a lot of profit, although it was sad to see them go. It seems the knives I have bought since then have not increased in value very much. So now I only keep knives I like and can see myself using in the future.

[Waco]

I'm confident that my knives will never be particularly valuable. I carry and use all of them.