Sharpening cmp s110v.

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Evil D
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#1

Post by Evil D »

I was just working on mine this evening. Something that occurred to me is a lesson I have learned over and over about sharpening, and that is if you want a sharp edge, you need to use a light touch. It's easy to try to force the stone to cut by adding pressure, but the stone will always cut even with a delicate touch. This always gets me that hair popping sticky edge.
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dbcad
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#2

Post by dbcad »

Ditto to Davids comments.

Having the right tools is important especially with a very wear resistant material. I have a series of 6 DMT stones I use starting with an XXcoarse and ending with an XXfine. Using the very coarse stones minimizes the temptation to use heavy pressure. Heavy pressure is counterproductive.

As always I suggest having a loupe so you can see what you're doing to the edge.

Charlie
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Surfingringo
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#3

Post by Surfingringo »

Whitetail addict wrote:Sorry if this has been descussed before, I have a manix light weight in s110v and I am having some trouble getting it razor sharp with the sharpmaker.
I can get s30v and elmax hair poppin sharp but not s110v

Any tips for a notice sharpener?
Hi whitetail addict, there could be any number of issues. Are you sharpening the entire bevel or attempting to microbevel? Are you sharpening on the 40 degree side? Using the brown stones? How sharp is the steel getting? Are you able to say, cleanly shave in one pass? Has the knife been re-profiled or are you sharpening the factory edge? Any details you can provide would be helpful in getting to the bottom of the issue you are having.
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Ankerson
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#4

Post by Ankerson »

Whitetail addict wrote:
Surfingringo wrote:
Whitetail addict wrote:Sorry if this has been descussed before, I have a manix light weight in s110v and I am having some trouble getting it razor sharp with the sharpmaker.
I can get s30v and elmax hair poppin sharp but not s110v

Any tips for a notice sharpener?
Hi whitetail addict, there could be any number of issues. Are you sharpening the entire bevel or attempting to microbevel? Are you sharpening on the 40 degree side? Using the brown stones? How sharp is the steel getting? Are you able to say, cleanly shave in one pass? Has the knife been re-profiled or are you sharpening the factory edge? Any details you can provide would be helpful in getting to the bottom of the issue you are having.
I am using the 40 degree brown and white stones, factory edge has dulled from everu day use and it will cut paper but won't get hair poppin

Work with the brown stones and a light touch.. Very light touch..

Get it sharp with those before thinking about the white ones, it will get screaming sharp just with the brown ones.
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Surfingringo
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#5

Post by Surfingringo »

Ankerson wrote:
Whitetail addict wrote:
Surfingringo wrote:
Whitetail addict wrote:Sorry if this has been descussed before, I have a manix light weight in s110v and I am having some trouble getting it razor sharp with the sharpmaker.
I can get s30v and elmax hair poppin sharp but not s110v

Any tips for a notice sharpener?
Hi whitetail addict, there could be any number of issues. Are you sharpening the entire bevel or attempting to microbevel? Are you sharpening on the 40 degree side? Using the brown stones? How sharp is the steel getting? Are you able to say, cleanly shave in one pass? Has the knife been re-profiled or are you sharpening the factory edge? Any details you can provide would be helpful in getting to the bottom of the issue you are having.
I am using the 40 degree brown and white stones, factory edge has dulled from everu day use and it will cut paper but won't get hair poppin

Work with the brown stones and a light touch.. Very light touch..

Get it sharp with those before thinking about the white ones, it will get screaming sharp just with the brown ones.
This. ^

If you don't have it effortlessly shaving without the edge even touching the skin then you are wasting your time moving on to the white stones. You can get s110v right at "hair whittling" sharp with just the brown stones. If I were you I would color in both bevels with a sharpie and make a few very careful passes at 40 degrees. If the bevels are both well below 20 degrees then you should see the marker only being removed right near the edge. If this is the case then you should be hitting the apex fine and you just need to do more passes paying close attention to both angle and pressure. If you find that one side or the other (or both) is getting most or all of the marker removed then that means your angle is a bit obtuse on that side. If that's the case then a re-profile to 30 degrees might be in order but you're going to need the diamond rods for that. FWIW, you will need the diamond rods eventually so I recommend you go ahead and order them regardless of the results of the "sharpie trick". Let us know how it goes.
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#6

Post by palonej »

Had the same issue, but with ZDP-189.......DULL!!! LIGHT passes brown stones!!! I got that ZDP screaming sharp!! Took some time and patience, but it got there!!
Only reason it was so dull was I got a William Henry second hand. Not sure what the guy was cutting, but there was hardly any edge!!
In the future DON'T let it get that dull!! Touch ups more often are much easier!!
Joe
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Ankerson
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#7

Post by Ankerson »

The biggest thing with S110V is not to over think it. ;)

It will be more wear resistant, however sharpen it like one would S30V checking a long the way so not to overdue it.

I have never found it to be that big of a deal personally to deal with.
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Evil D
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#8

Post by Evil D »

palonej wrote:Had the same issue, but with ZDP-189.......DULL!!! LIGHT passes brown stones!!! I got that ZDP screaming sharp!! Took some time and patience, but it got there!!
Only reason it was so dull was I got a William Henry second hand. Not sure what the guy was cutting, but there was hardly any edge!!
In the future DON'T let it get that dull!! Touch ups more often are much easier!!
Joe

I honestly think ZDP can be more of a pain to deal with than 110, especially if you let it get really dull. Neither are an issue with the right stones.
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#9

Post by bearfacedkiller »

My advice in addition to what has already been shared is to keep your microbevel small and touch your knife up often. I have been keeping S110V very sharp for a while now and staying ahead of it helps me.
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Joris Mo
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#10

Post by Joris Mo »

Always good to hear some extra advice. Usually don't have much trouble sharpening but do remember that I considered S110V to be a pain.
Only have the Manix2lw in S110V and the design doesn't really work for me but maybe I should try and EDC it for awhile again and practice sharpening it a bit more, would be good to get to know the steel better as well. Might want it in other blades someday.
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ZrowsN1s
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#11

Post by ZrowsN1s »

im reading nothing but good suggestions here. I realize you are using a sharp maker, but for general discussion, i use the kme sharp system and heres what ive found about sharpening s110v.
you can get the steel razor sharp, but as an fyi, i would point out that this steel holds a coarse edge (500 grit) particularly well. That being said i try my best to mirror polish mine.
Diamond Hones work great. This steel takes longer to sharpen than others. In particular i use a XX-coarse diamond hone (100grit i think) with water. You can get the knife really sharp even at this level of coarseness, not shaving sharp, but it will cut cardboard for days. Another forum member "qwakster" advised me to use hardwood or fiber board as a strop with some cbn .05 micron diamond polish, his edges were amazing. I've gotten decent results with just a leather strop and some polishing compound. I failed at my first attempt to sharpen s110v, but was very successful on the second attempt. The difference was patients, i made sure it was sharp at the coarse grits before i moved up to the fine grits.
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL :bug-red

"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
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Ankerson
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#12

Post by Ankerson »

Here is a simple example using the Mule Team in S110V, remember the staple test I did and the damage on the knives I used.

Here is the Mule Team here:

Image


And Current photo as I just fixed it up last week. Not really all that difficult, just 120, 320 and 400 grit SIC and around 15 mins. :)

Image


Expanded photo to show the 3 Mule Teams I have handles on.

Image

Image
rmeron
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#13

Post by rmeron »

Not trying hijack this thread, but I have a Lansky sharpener system, are there any pointers for my Manix 2 lW CMP S110 and Delica and Endura VG10.
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#14

Post by rybu0305 »

Did you use ONLY diamond stones or did you start there and progress through the others. Which stone did you stop on? Fine?
More CBBL please!
Delica 4 Brown, Manix 2 G10 S110V, Gayle Bradley 2, Manix 2 CF Cruwear, KC Endura HAP40 pakkawood, Sliverax, Kapara, Manix 2 Rex45, Manix 2 4v, Ivory Straight Stretch
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#15

Post by rybu0305 »

Whitetail addict wrote:
rybu0305 wrote:Did you use ONLY diamond stones or did you start there and progress through the others. Which stone did you stop on? Fine?
I just went from the brown stones to diamond stones using a light touch.

Brown to diamond? Wouldn't you go diamond to brown? Courser to less course?
More CBBL please!
Delica 4 Brown, Manix 2 G10 S110V, Gayle Bradley 2, Manix 2 CF Cruwear, KC Endura HAP40 pakkawood, Sliverax, Kapara, Manix 2 Rex45, Manix 2 4v, Ivory Straight Stretch
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ZrowsN1s
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Re: Sharpening cmp s110v.

#16

Post by ZrowsN1s »

rybu0305 wrote:
Whitetail addict wrote:
rybu0305 wrote:Did you use ONLY diamond stones or did you start there and progress through the others. Which stone did you stop on? Fine?
I just went from the brown stones to diamond stones using a light touch.

Brown to diamond? Wouldn't you go diamond to brown? Courser to less course?
i use only diamond and i went from XX-Coarse, to X-coarse, to coarse, to fine, and then extra fine. Than leather strop with polishing compound.
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL :bug-red

"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
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