Sharpmaker and Mineral Oil?

[thombrogan]

For those few already using mineral oil on their Sharpmaker hones, may I please ask a few questions?

Does the oil end up getting everywhere?

Does light mineral oil end up gumming up over time?

Many thanks

[thombrogan]

Just wondering because I've recently finishing edges with a Spyderco Doublestuff and water and think I read about someone using the Sharpmaker and oil for the same step.

[Blerv]

Mineral oil never really gets gummy in my experience.

Personally I just use water after hearing that from Cliff Stamp. Seems to help the stone not "grab" as much and probably controls dust.

[bearfacedkiller]

Why do you want to use oil?

Spyderco recommends using them dry but some of us have used a lubricant. I have used both water and oil but I currently just use them dry. I found that the oil seemed to reduce the effectiveness of the grit. I have been known to spit a little on the white side of my double stuff and then used light pressure to effectively get a lower grit. Other than that I don't use a lube with ceramic stones. You will have to clean your rods often enough that oil gumming up should not be a problem. A little hot water and soap will clean mineral oil right up. It shouldn't get all over the place unless you are using way too much.

[Fred Sanford]

I use Spyderco ceramics and DMT stones. I never use anything. No water, no oil. Why put yourself through that? No need.

I just clean my ceramics with some Bar Keepers Friend and a 3M Scotchbrite pad ever month give or take.

[Cliff Stamp]

The stones are solid, they won't significantly absorb the oil.

As to why you use lubricant, it is because properly applied, it enhances cutting, and minimizes degradation of the abrasive hence why lubricants are so common in industry. As with anything you can do it improperly. The level of lubrication has to be matched to the grit size, pressure and heat applied.

For fine grits, low force and low temperature, a very light lubricant is likely to be ideal. Mineral oil is likely to only be useful on the really coarse stones.

[Evil D]

I don't use anything on my SM stones, but I use water on my Edge Pro, mostly to control the dust and make slurry. Some of the stones I use actually said to use them with water and there's definitely a difference in how they cut when the dust is in the water/slurry and not clogging up the pores. Like Cliff said, the purpose of an oil is just to be a heavier weight so it's able to suspend the larger particles of more course stones. On the SM I think water would be your best bet, but also not really necessary. The action is so slow and the stones so solid that they don't really clog very fast. You may try some water when doing heavy reprofiling.

[VashHash]

I've been using ceramic stones without lubricant for years. I also use an eraser to clean them after. I used to rinse with water and wipe on a cloth but i find the eraser works better. I don't see much benefit to using lubricant on ceramic though. Especially not mineral oil.

[thombrogan]

Thanks for the replies. I figured light mineral oil (such as Norton honing or unscented baby oil) might stick to the honed when at their preset angles better than water without being as cumbersome as a laxative-grade mineral oil.

Water definitely will be a less messy first attempt. Thanks everyone!