Sharpmaker tips

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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bearfacedkiller
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Sharpmaker tips

#1

Post by bearfacedkiller »

It really can be a very versatile system. I use the sharpmaker a lot and have been wanting to put a few of my tips and tricks into a thread to share so here ya go.

You can change angles like this. Using different sized dowels can yield different angles. You can download an angle finder app for your smartphone to check the angles. It takes a little getting used to rocking it back and forth when switching sides but when reprofiling I will just do a bunch of passes per side (like 20, 50, 100, whatever it takes) until I get closer to apexing. You can get pretty efficient doing like 5 passes per side and then rocking the base to switch sides. You just have to do it and establish a little muscle memory and rocking the base just becomes part of the process. There is a perfect little slot in the top of the base for the rubber band to sit in so it stays centered well.

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You can get any grit you want like this. I usually use some 220 grit paper when the diamond rods are not course enough. Try to make sure that you have the paper pulled as tight around the rod as you can or you may get scratches above the bevel on your primary grind, especially when trying to do a steep angle. Creasing the paper before wrapping it around the rods is how I keep it tight/flat on the rod. You can go through a lot of sandpaper this way but it does work well.

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You can carry any combination of the stones in the plastic base. You could even carry one of each of the four stones. I have been successful using a single rod as a hand held stone so having one of each in the base works for me. On a recent hunting trip I brought it just with the diamond and brown rods. On this trip I didn't have time to be sharpening and if I did have to do a quick touch up or repair this would have had me back up and running in no time at all.

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Do any of you guys have any good tips or tricks to help get a little more performance or a little more versatility out of this device? I am sure there are many more. I hope this helps someone. :D
-Darby
sal wrote:Knife afi's are pretty far out, steel junky's more so, but "edge junky's" are just nuts. :p
SpyderEdgeForever wrote: Also, do you think a kangaroo would eat a bowl of spagetti with sauce if someone offered it to them?
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Surfingringo
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#2

Post by Surfingringo »

Great thread. I hope to see others sharing sm tips in here too as this thread could prove to be a great reference for new sharpeners or old hands looking to learn a few new tricks. I have some tips I will share later but for the moment I would like to share one of my newest discoveries. I have long hounded Sal to provide us with some different grit diamond (or CBN) rods for the sharpmaker. I think they will end up offering them but it could be a while yet. In the meantime this is my solution. Two DMT diafold sharpeners rubber banded to the rods. The 1200 grit DMT's provide what I find to be the absolutely best finish for my edc folders. I can bring them to very high levels at this grit but the 1200 diamonds still provide a very aggressive edge.

I will eagerly await 600 and 1200 grit diamond rods for the sharpmaker but until then this gets the job done. FWIW, holding the diamond stones is the most practical use I have found for the UF ceramic rods yet! haha ;)

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bearfacedkiller
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#3

Post by bearfacedkiller »

It is my understanding that Spyderco has their diamond rods made for them by one of the companies who make a lot of diamond stones. I could be wrong, it happens all the time, but I thought I read that before. If this is true then this company already makes stones in all sorts of grits so I don't see why it would be hard to get diamond sharpmaker rods in a full spectrum of grits. Really, if S110V is gonna be offered as a regular production steel like ZDP then offering more diamond grits just makes sense. Time for some CQI for the sharpmaker to keep up with the current steels if you ask me.

I was hoping this would turn into a good reference too. Something I could just link people to when certain questions come up. Thanks for sharing Lance. I have seen congress moldmaster stones rubber banded to rods as well. Definitely another good way to do it and you won't consume a ton of sandpaper like I do.
-Darby
sal wrote:Knife afi's are pretty far out, steel junky's more so, but "edge junky's" are just nuts. :p
SpyderEdgeForever wrote: Also, do you think a kangaroo would eat a bowl of spagetti with sauce if someone offered it to them?
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farnorthdan
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#4

Post by farnorthdan »

Great stuff guys, the only tip I can think of right now and one that probably gets over looked a lot is keeping the rods clean. I usually like to clean mine every few uses or when they start looking loaded with metal. I use an abrasive powdered cleaning product like comet or bar keepers friend and a sponge with the green 3m scotch brite on one side. This works real good and doesn't take long at all, I can really notice the difference clean rods make.
Happy to be part of this great forum and group of down to earth spyderco addicts, Thanks Sal and gang.
My Grails: Lum Tanto folder sprint, Sprint Persian(red), Captain, Manix 2 (M4), SB MT, PM2 M390, CF dodo, Manix2 (CF S90V),Manix2 XL S90V, Zowada CF Balance Rassenti Nivarna, Lil' Nilakka, Tuff, Police 4, Chinook 4, Caly HAP40 52100 Military, S110V Military, Any/All PM2 & Military sprints/exclusives I can get my grubby hands on :) :spyder: :) :spyder: :)

"We may look curious, homely, whatever, but we'll never be called unusable or undependable."
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skatenut
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#5

Post by skatenut »

Great tips, guys, thank you!
Don't have two 1200 DMT folding sharpeners yet, but that's easily remedied.
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dbcad
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#6

Post by dbcad »

Excellent thread :D Always good to learn some variations on using the SM. Thanks :)
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Spydesense
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#7

Post by Spydesense »

Once again, excellent thread, hope everybody learns something. I have learned that as the blade goes along the rod, I tend to move the handle away from the rod the closer my stroke gets to the tip of the blade. Let me try to explain further... if I'm using the left rod, I end up moving the handle towards the right basically so that the tip will be in the center of the rod at the end of the stroke.

I also agree on keeping them clean. I have used Bar Keeper's Friend, but I have found that Soft Scrub and green 3M/Scotch brite pad works the best.

I have just recently started using my Sharpmaker again for touch ups after recently getting an Edge Pro to reprofile and set main bevel. I went through a all free hand sharpening phase for the last few years. I finally broke down and purchased the UF Sharpmaker rods and am very pleased with the results. I still can't say enough about the 306 UF benchstone...Great investment as well!
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aquaman67
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Re: Sharpmaker tips

#8

Post by aquaman67 »

The tip that helped me the most was mounting the Sharpamaker down to a solid base so I could use both hands to guide the knife.

There are two videos on YouTube called Sharpmaker Improvements that helped too.
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