Spyderco Forums

https://youtu.be/u55vYs_qAj8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I'd been browsing when this popped up, and the sharpener that Cutco uses seems VERY similar to the Sharpmaker with their own triangle rods in the same coloration. What is the deal with this?

It looks pretty similar.

Well, he does say at the beginning: "I learned everything from Carl, they said to steal everything and implement it better."

I like how he says the fine rod is porcelain. LOL, using the flats is the worst thing you can do.

He is really not good at using that thing. =\

Imitation is the ...

sal

Greatest form of flattery.

Sorry for the double post, but could anybody enlighten me on the Sharpmaker's ability to sharpen Cutco's Double D serrations (Common sense says yes) I sharpen knives and I'm just wondering if it can do it properly? I've done it before but I'm not sure for some reason. (Also, thank you very much for the reply Mr. Glesser)

Before anyone jumps to conclusions realize :

-triangle shaped abrasive rods were used in tooling/die abrasives long before Spyderco started using them

-v-rods were around before the Sharpmaker

Sal put a lot into the Sharpmaker and it provides a lot of utility not seen in other products :

-use of triangle rods vs round for added utility
-multiple angles
-hand guards
-scissor option/setting
-hook sharpener setting in the rods
-multiple grits (now 5)
-multiple abrasive types (aluminum oxide, diamond, CBN)
-ability to convert to a bench stone
-complete enclosed package/portability
-full DVD/instructions

It is all of this that makes the Sharpmaker.

You will need to go very slowly to permit the corner of the stones to get inside of the "Double D". I sharpened them both forward and rearward., white stones only.

sal

sal wrote:You will need to go very slowly to permit the corner of the stones to get inside of the "Double D". I sharpened them both forward and rearward., white stones only.

sal

Thanks for the advice, I'll remember that. Why only the white stones? Do the brown ones concave the corners inside of their serration pattern? (Spyderco's serrations are MUCH more favored by me for a few reasons like this)

I prefer the white stones so less material is removed.

sal

Seems like almost any amount of sharpening will turn that serration pattern into a typical scallop shape, I can't see how they have any advantage over a single size serration pattern of the same size.

sal wrote:I prefer the white stones so less material is removed.

sal

Okay, I'll keep that in mind (I sharpen for people and the sharpmaker does a splended job on serrations).

Wanimator wrote:

sal wrote:You will need to go very slowly to permit the corner of the stones to get inside of the "Double D". I sharpened them both forward and rearward., white stones only.

sal

Thanks for the advice, I'll remember that. Why only the white stones? Do the brown ones concave the corners inside of their serration pattern? (Spyderco's serrations are MUCH more favored by me for a few reasons like this)

Hi Wanimator, it has also been my experience that when sharpening serrations the white stones slide more fluidly across the edge transitions. It is easier to get all angles of the serration sharp with the fine stones as the mediums are more prone to catch and "jump" over small sections.

Looks like a Sharpmaker and a Lansky turnbox had a baby.

Surfingringo wrote:

Wanimator wrote:

sal wrote:You will need to go very slowly to permit the corner of the stones to get inside of the "Double D". I sharpened them both forward and rearward., white stones only.

sal

Hi Wanimator, it has also been my experience that when sharpening serrations the white stones slide more fluidly across the edge transitions. It is easier to get all angles of the serration sharp with the fine stones as the mediums are more prone to catch and "jump" over small sections.

I too agree with SURF & SAL both in regards to using the white/fine stones on serrations. Even though I've preached against the use of the 204 Sharpmaker for sharpening Spyderedge serrations I do use mine for a couple of serrated J.A. Henckels kitchen knives>> however they do have a bit of a different serration pattern that seems to work better with the 204 Sharpmaker than Spyderedges do.

As far as these charlatans copying/stealing the Sharpmaker design>> all I can say is that there is no shortage of immoral people out there. Which is one of the main reasons I don't buy stuff made in 3rd World **** Holes and made by slaves as well :mad:

If anything, it looks more like the old 203 Sharpmaker than the 204. Given the wood base, I don't see anyone mistaking it for either one. No idea what the Ed Reed sharpener sold for new, or how it compares to Spyderco's in terms of quality, but it appears to be a fairly moot point since they don't seem to be in production anymore. Perhaps Sal had Peter send them a nastygram. :D

Cutco's Ed Reed Sharpener may have "borrowed" heavily from the Sharpmaker, but based on what's being asked for them on eBay, it wouldn't meet the normal definition of knock off, namely "a cheap imitation".

Surfingringo wrote:

Wanimator wrote:

sal wrote:You will need to go very slowly to permit the corner of the stones to get inside of the "Double D". I sharpened them both forward and rearward., white stones only.

sal

Thanks for the advice, I'll remember that. Why only the white stones? Do the brown ones concave the corners inside of their serration pattern? (Spyderco's serrations are MUCH more favored by me for a few reasons like this)

Hi Wanimator, it has also been my experience that when sharpening serrations the white stones slide more fluidly across the edge transitions. It is easier to get all angles of the serration sharp with the fine stones as the mediums are more prone to catch and "jump" over small sections.

Okay, I've noticed that as well. Though sometimes there are some serrated edges that I've encountered need 5-10 brown stone swipes to get to a point where I can get the edge consistently sharp so I can then move on to finer stones. I've found I can avoid the catching by moving the knife with little pressure and smoothly doing the stroke. Recently I sharpened a Leatherman's serrated edge and got the serrated portion to tree top hairs. The plain edge portion was also honed to the degree of a scalpel and stropped... very sharp. I really want to try out some more rods, or test out new ones as time goes on. (I need to invest in the diamond rods for sure, sometimes you just get edges that are absolutely awful).

I thought the Ed Reed sharpener was exclusive to the Cutco workers they can "invest" in it IE, Cutco makes their workers buy their products to make more money.

sal wrote:Imitation is the ...

sal

"Imitation is the sincerest [form] of flattery" [Charles Caleb Colton (1780–1832)]

Sincerity aside, it is certainly the cheapest and least innovative. It rarely surprises me when another manufacturer (competitor) steals another’s invention/innovation/idea. It seems the bigger they are (CUTCO 2013 sales were 200M+), the easier they can rationalize this practice.

I did a tune up on a Cutco today, I took Sal's advice and it worked , I got all parts of the edge shaving. Also thanks for your advice Surf, I appreciate it.

Does anyone have issues using the cutco sharpener to sharpen straight edge knives? The gray stones work well for me as I can cut printer paper within 15-20 strokes per side, but when I move to the white stones it seriously dulls my knives until it no longer cuts printer paper! Recently, I have been only using the gray stones and straight to a strop.

Are their white stones worthless? I have been keeping my pressure to a minimum, no burr is forming, but the white stones just seem like they kill my blade.