elena86 wrote:Hey , I just hope this is not turning into a campaign for chainging the spyderedge pattern .I love my spyderedges as they are.Spyderedges in the actual pattern are one of the reasons I love Spyderco so much .As Cliff said ,the more pointy they are the more able to cut through hard materials.In fact , I am a fanatic in developing my sharpening skills to be able to keep the tips as pointy as possible.Those who like them more rounded , just round them off.Let's keep both worlds happy .
Thanks for the interesting pic "bdblue" because that is one issue that needs to be discussed>>and that's the fact that even a Spyderedge is subject to damage if used wrong. A knife whether it be serrated, plain edged, combo edge are all subject to damage if you use them for anything other than what they are designed to be used for>> and that is for cutting chores of materials that can be cut without damaging the knife blade. I'm as big of fan of Spyderedges as anyone here but they have their limitations just like any other edged tool.bdblue wrote:Here is a photo of damage to serrations on 2 different Enduras, FWIW:
That's an interesting observation "DONUT">> I've sort of thought about that myself and I've wondered if serrations would be sharpened on both sides what differences it would make i.e. positive or negative? Like I've said before I've noticed that certain blade steels are better for Spyderedges than others. Even Spyderco themselves more or less admitted that ZDP-189 is not a good steel for Spyderedges. Oddly enough I've noticed that many blade steels like ATS-55, AUS-8, 440V and H-1 are all noted for not being superior for plain edges but seem to do very well with Spyderedges.Donut wrote:Those damaged serration pictures, it looks like those things have seen a lot of use. The non-damaged section of the edges, at least on the top one, look almost completely rounded over.
I would say that a serrated edge is more likely to be damaged if something hard makes its way into the scallops. This is due to the chisel grind. If I sharpen one side at the 40 degree setting and the other side is at 0 degree, I'm left with a 20 degree inclusive edge. It gets protected by the serrations, but the edge itself is not so ready for harder work.
sal wrote: On our kitchen knives, which are mostly used on cutting boards, we make one tooth in three longer to protect the other two teeth.
That's really interesting to hear what your personal favorite serration pattern Mr. Glesser. Because that tells us that you do indeed put a lot of thought into the performance for the end line user. I'm sure it's not an easy job to ascertain one certain serration pattern to perform on a wide range of cutting jobs. I know I'm going to sound redundant but I still think the best overall serration pattern that Spyderco ever put out was the one I have on my older, fully serrated, AUS-8 Catcherman model. I would so much like to see that one come back not only on an updated Catcherman with either H-1 or LC200N but would also like to see it again on some of the GOLDEN CO made models like the Military and Para2.sal wrote:Interesting discussion. We did research on serrations for several years before we actually made them on our knives.
My personal preference is for a slightly rounded tooth for all purpose cutting. I use the SM and will often sharpen a new blade to get the desired effect
On our kitchen knives, which are mostly used on cutting boards, we make one tooth in three longer to protect the other two teeth.
I like the sound of that. Would that pattern not also be useful in a folder?[/quote]N. Brian Huegel wrote:
I'm glad they do them the way they do Bill. One of the reasons the se knives cut so well is the edge angle is so low. Think about it...around 15 degrees on the cut side and on the other side? maybe 2-3 degrees. You have less than a 20 degree inclusive edge. Of course they cut well. It also means that even as you do touchups on the sharpmaker the edge angle will stay fairly acute. At least the way I do it it will, since I microbevel the cut side at 20 degrees and the backside at near flat. I think we would see a significant decrease in cutting performance if they were to cut the serrations on both sides, due to a huge increase in edge angle.Bill1170 wrote:I assume that Spyderco serrations are chisel ground because grinding serrations into both sides would be much slower and more difficult than doing just one side. Registering the scallops on both sides seems non-trivial to accomplish. Nevertheless, I wonder if there would be any benefit to bilaterally symmetrical serrations? At the least, they wouldn't steer the blade to one side. What do people think?
The Spyderco 701 Profiles are time consuming to use on each Scallop and the corners that fit into each set of Spikes>> but I find the 701 Profile kit to do the best job of sharpening most serration patterns of any tool I've worked with. They are also a great tool for PE Hawkbills, Recurves and to some extent they are nice to use on "Reverse S" blades as well. The 701 Profile kit I like better than the 204 Sharpmaker because it keeps the serrations looking close to what they looked like when they left the factory.Bill1170 wrote:Perhaps the best argument for the current setup is that sharpness can be restored by grinding the flat side, a task much simpler than honing the scallops. I'm not advising this, but I've seen it done on powered equipment.