Ecchi-Spud wrote:ON A SIDE NOTE:
This regards guided sharpeners, like the Sharpmaker, where you have the stones/sticks set at preset angles on a base and you gently run the knife edge across the sticks going downward. The issue that I have is that the preset angles typically aren't the ones needed to work the edge at the preferred angle(s), like for jackknifeh's image below (and sometimes not even at the angles they're labeled at -- a simple protractor can reveal that)
Now I recently purchased a crock-stick setup for sharpening the few blades I have (Sorry, everyone - and especially Sal - it's not a Sharpmaker; like I've mentioned before, I've only recently started on knives as an interest/hobby), and future blades (may have to get a better set-up for harder steels; hopefully by then, I'll be more practiced). And it occurred to me that there MIGHT be a way to REDUCE the actual angles one sharpens at, by simply ROTATING the sharpener off-perpendicular. That way, when you gently run the edge across the sticks (along the triangle edge for the Sharpmaker sticks; not the flat), you're at the desired angle(s) needed. With a little bit of basic trigonometry, I even determined a formula for how much the sharpener would have to be rotated to reach the desired angle:
The idea being that, with the addition of a simple protractor (maybe the same one you use to determine the ACTUAL angle of the sharpening sticks), a sheet of paper with a line drawn on it, and a good scientific calculator, one could practically DIAL IN the desired sharpening angle to work on the knife edge. Problem is, some of the angles needed to rotate the sharpener can be high (for example, to take a 20-degree angle down to 15 degrees, the sharpener would have to be rotated about 41 degrees off-perpendicular). Also, since the sticks are now no longer perpendicular to yourself, the length of the actual knife strokes would be different (possibly shorter for the stick now angled away from you, longer for the one angled closer). And there may be other problems that I'm not seeing ATM (if you think of something I'm missing here, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!).cos R = (sin D) / (sin A)
R = Angle off of perpendicular that the sharpener would have to be rotated (between 0 and 90 degrees)
D = Desired angle (per side) for sharpening (D less than A)
A = Actual angle of the stick in the sharpener (again, per side)
There's a long story on how to arrive at this formula.
Any thoughts? Something I miss? Do I need to take remedial trigonometry or consult a psychiatrist? (NOTE: I haven't done this to any of my blades YET; like I keep stating, I'm still new to all of this.)
What would be cool is if you could develope a "V" type sharpener like the Sharpmaker with 100% adjustable angles to hold the rods or whatever sharpening stone you want. Seems possible to rig something that would have a manual crank to turn which would move both rods at the same time and keep them at the same angle. Some sort of belt or chain and pulley setup. I don't know how difficult that would be. But if you are considering what you mentioned I'd say you have the motivation to explore other stuff. Or, depending on how much money you want to spend there are other sharpening systems available that are more versatile than a "V" type sharpener. The Edge Pro and Wicked Edge are the two I know of. They are capable of setting any angle you want that would normally be desired on a knife edge. Or, there is also an Edge Pal that someone designed and makes them to order. That system will hold about any stone you already own instead of needing to buy stones that mount in the WE or EP. It also is designed to be even more precise regarding setting the angle you want. But for most knives, especially EDC pocket knives the exact angle isn't that important. If you want a 15 dps angle and accidentally put a 13 or 14 dps edge on your knife you'll never know it. Not by every day use that is. Or before investing time and/or money in systems you might consider mastering free hand sharpening. However, while the systems control maintaining a consistent edge angle that is only controlled by your ability when free hand sharpening. It takes longer to become proficient but it also eliminates any little quirk that come with about any sharpening system. These quirks are not always bad. They are just things you need to learn to work with to get better performance from the tool. Just like a lot of tools.
Anyway, I'm sure we are eager to see what you come up with if you design something yourself. If you come up with something really smart make sure not to patent it so I can steal the idea and become a go-zillionaire. :)
Jack