Weird Nano-Oil on DF2 result

[babtron]

Hey guys, I don't really delve into much lubricants. I either use mineral oil, Nano-Oil (10 weight) or now, Ballistol. Nano-Oil works for me usually, but I've noticed the results using it on my DF2 are quite frankly...horrible.

After washing, cleaning, and drying my DF2, I put about 3 drops in the pivot and worked the oil in. After time, the blade would stiffen up. It would actually lock up upon closing. Washed it again, but this time used Ballistol and all is well. I don't get it. It works great on my D4. I tried Nano-Oil once more and same result. I get sticky opening and what seems like locking up closing. Also, the lock feels incredibly weird (don't ask me how). Almost like it isn't locked all the way until I push on the blade. I am very confused lol.

Has anyone else experienced this using Nano-Oil? Or does anyone have an explanation?

PS: This is in way to knock the product. It definitely makes my D4 smooth as well as other knives. For some reason, the results are complete opposites on my DF2.

[KevinOubre]

That is odd. I use nano oil exclusively and have never heard of this happening. Ive put them in all different pivots and lock types and got the same result. Taken it apart?

[WMR]

I tried Nano-0il for awhile.... and for a while it was my lubricant of choice. I don't use it much anymore. Actually, I find it much more important to keep the knives clean. Lubrication is secondary for me. Chris Reeve, known for precision knife tolerances, recommends fluorinated grease. But, you really have to disassemble the knife to get the grease in all the right places. I have really tried everything I could find for a couple of years but never found the magic lubricant.

The reason I am responding to this original post is that I now find myself doing a lot of clock maintenance and repair. On the watch and clock forum, there are many reports of using nano-oil. Usually, they are not completely satisfied, and there have been a few reports of a yellow deposit left after its use. I have not seen this, and it may be because of previous oiling of the clock in question. My only point here is that no one has raved about the use of nano-oil on their clock. Usually they choose a synthetic oil such as Etsyntha 859 for all the tiny bearings (pivots) and recently many have found Slick 50 to be the lubricant of choice for their mainsprings. Slick 50 is usually sold as an engine oil additive. It originally contained teflon until they were sued by DuPont, owner of the teflon patent. The original formula for Slick 50 One Lube did contain "collodial" Teflon. The particle size of the Teflon was claimed to be sub-micron. Now it still contains all the other additives except teflon, but the clock guys have been testing it for over a year with excellent results on mainsprings. Many mainspring lubricants can solidify somewhat with time causing the spring to stick instead of slide.

Clocks demand far more sophisticated lubrication than knives. So a clock guy would not use Slick 50 on a pivot and he would not use Etsynthia 859 on his mainspring. I have not tried Slick 50 or Etsyntha 859 on any of my knives. I just try to keep them sharp and clean.

I suppose this post may not be very helpful but I couldn't resist throwing in my two cents.

WMR

[Evil D]

I tried Nano-0il for awhile.... and for a while it was my lubricant of choice. I don't use it much anymore. Actually, I find it much more important to keep the knives clean. Lubrication is secondary for me. Chris Reeve, known for precision knife tolerances, recommends fluorinated grease. But, you really have to disassemble the knife to get the grease in all the right places. I have really tried everything I could find for a couple of years but never found the magic lubricant.

The reason I am responding to this original post is that I now find myself doing a lot of clock maintenance and repair. On the watch and clock forum, there are many reports of using nano-oil. Usually, they are not completely satisfied, and there have been a few reports of a yellow deposit left after its use. I have not seen this, and it may be because of previous oiling of the clock in question. My only point here is that no one has raved about the use of nano-oil on their clock. Usually they choose a synthetic oil such as Etsyntha 859 for all the tiny bearings (pivots) and recently many have found Slick 50 to be the lubricant of choice for their mainsprings. Slick 50 is usually sold as an engine oil additive. It originally contained teflon until they were sued by DuPont, owner of the teflon patent. The original formula for Slick 50 One Lube did contain "collodial" Teflon. The particle size of the Teflon was claimed to be sub-micron. Now it still contains all the other additives except teflon, but the clock guys have been testing it for over a year with excellent results on mainsprings. Many mainspring lubricants can solidify somewhat with time causing the spring to stick instead of slide.

Clocks demand far more sophisticated lubrication than knives. So a clock guy would not use Slick 50 on a pivot and he would not use Etsynthia 859 on his mainspring. I have not tried Slick 50 or Etsyntha 859 on any of my knives. I just try to keep them sharp and clean.

I suppose this post may not be very helpful but I couldn't resist throwing in my two cents.

WMR

I have a cousin who put over 400k miles on a Cavalier using Slick 50 on every oil change, so I don't doubt this to be true. I'll pick up some next time I'm at the parts store and see how I like it. It's definitely an oil I would only want in my pivots though, and definitely not around the edge/blade if a knife is used for food prep.

[Stuart Ackerman]

Good post WMR...
You mentioned the lubricants I have played around with over the years...

FYI, if you take a really thin instrument oil, about 20ml, add a 1/10 gram chlorine powder, and shake it up, test THAT for friction free knife pivots... :)