Spyderedges! What are your uses & steel preferences and why?

[DougC-3]

There have been a lot of threads about SE knives lately, but I'd like to know more about the reasons you choose the ones you do and which steels you prefer for your specific uses of SE blades. Is functionality your main criterion? How do you actually use your SE knives? What are your limitations when you EDC SE only? To what extent do personality, appearance, potential SD, aura, "mythos" :) and so forth balance against real world uses?

As mentioned in the Top 10 SE Knives thread, I have used my Pacific Salt H-1 mainly for lopping limbs up to >/= one inch and plan to try the same with my new D'Allara Rescue VG-10.

[JD Spydo]

Thank you DougC :) Because I've been searching for many of those same answers my own self. There are 3 blade steels I really like with Spyderedged blades>> First and foremost the more I use it the more I like it>> I'm speaking of the older 440V ( CPM S60V). The 2 serrated/Spyderedged blades I have with 440V are ones I use for almost everything. I find 440V to endure just about any rough-house job I encounter. Just today I used my 440V Native for tearing down many packages and ripped apart a lot of thick cardboard. And the blade will still shave through flimsy paper,

Earlier this afternoon I started to process a turkey I thawed out and I used my full SE, AUS-8 Catcherman>> and as good as that folding fillet knife is it baffles me as to why they discontinued the Catcherman in full Spyderedge> because if anyone were to seriously use that knife for filleting fish or food processing they would sell huge I'm sure. So I do indeed give a solid vote to AUS-8 blade steel for Spyderedges.

I also love VG-10 and H-1 too for Spyderedges. They did a Sprint run of the Catcherman in H-1>> it was a combo edged blade and it's great with both edge types.

Each and every day I find Spyderedges invaluable for rough work.

[Evil D]

If I had to pick a steel I'd go with H1, but I haven't really had any bad experiences with VG10 or S30V so I can't say anything bad about those.

Main criteria...I don't know? Cut stuff? I'm really only getting into SE heavily lately as it's something new and because I feel like most people (myself included) have only given them a quick once over and developed a negative opinion of them based on a very narrow perspective of use. Because of that (and the fact that I have nothing better to do) I decided to carry nothing but SE for a while and see what happens, because I know from experience that the models I favor the most come in PE so when reaching for a knife, the SE take a back seat even if for no other reason than the model they come in. I suspect that after a few months of carry I'll have made up my mind to buy a couple of my favorite models with the plan of having serrations cut into them.

How do I actually use them? The same as my PE knives for the most part. I've found that for most materials if you just cut with the knife and stop thinking so much about the edge type, they perform much the same. The obvious differences could be "biting" into some materials as opposed to the "sliding" feeling that PE gives you, and for me the fact that it's chisel ground has always been something that stands out to me in use regardless of SE or PE. They just feel different to me.

Limitations? Well I don't think it's a good idea to skin a deer with one, and definitely don't try to shave your face with one. So far I haven't come across a task that SE couldn't do, especially if you opt for a SE knife that has a little PE at the tip (cheating!).

All those other things, I've always loved the look of SE. PE definitely looks "cleaner" but some models just look so aggressive with SE. Look at these two pics for example...




Some knives speak to me and say "I can slice a tomato like a lightsaber" while other knives speak to me and say "I can cut any dang thing you put in front of me". Guess which is which

I would also dare say that a well balanced combo edge could make for a BETTER bushcraft blade than all PE, with the only real down side being that you can't sharpen serrations on a rock.

Check this out..

[DougC-3]

Well so far, I'm learning that that SE's really are more versatile than I thought, and I guess it's pretty obvious that visual impact is part of their appeal :D Thanks for the input!

[Evil D]

Well so far, I'm learning that that SE's really are more versatile than I thought, and I guess it's pretty obvious that visual impact is part of their appeal :D Thanks for the input!

Don't get me wrong, as much as it'll break JD's heart, I will likely always lean towards PE as a preference, and if I could only have one knife it would no doubt be PE.

Thankfully we (well I) don't live in a place where I can only own or carry one, so having a primary and secondary carry is never a bad thing.

[Surfingringo]

Well so far, I'm learning that that SE's really are more versatile than I thought, and I guess it's pretty obvious that visual impact is part of their appeal :D Thanks for the input!

Don't get me wrong, as much as it'll break JD's heart, I will likely always lean towards PE as a preference, and if I could only have one knife it would no doubt be PE.

Thankfully we (well I) don't live in a place where I can only own or carry one, so having a primary and secondary carry is never a bad thing.

Yes, me too, but it's good to see some of you guys experimenting more with the se knives. I was always a little baffled by the hardline stance taken by some in the se vs. pe debate. They are both great tools that individually excel at various tasks. So yes, like you, if I could only own one it would certainly be a pe but luckily I don't live in one knife bizarro world. :D

[GoldenSpydie]

Although I like the visual appeal of serrations on certain knives (dlc PM1 for example), I think that plain edge is much more versatile and, in my experience, works better for 90% of my cutting. I have never encountered a task where I needed SE, but I have often cut things that can only be cut with plain edges.

Most of what I do with knives (besides collecting them and small EDC use) is in the woods. For almost all camping and hiking uses, I just don't know if SE would work. Has anyone ever batoned firewood with SE? And from my experience, whittling is exceedingly difficult with serrations.

[JD Spydo]

Well so far, I'm learning that that SE's really are more versatile than I thought, and I guess it's pretty obvious that visual impact is part of their appeal :D Thanks for the input!

Don't get me wrong, as much as it'll break JD's heart, I will likely always lean towards PE as a preference, and if I could only have one knife it would no doubt be PE.

Thankfully we (well I) don't live in a place where I can only own or carry one, so having a primary and secondary carry is never a bad thing.

No EVIL you're not breaking my heart at all. As a matter of record I always have at least one plain edged blade on me at all times. Today it was the C-60 Ayoob that I actually only used once. I used my SE Native 440V most of the day breaking down packages and cutting cordage and literally sawing through some very thick material that I couldn't do so well with a plain edge.

NO NO NO!!! Please don't misunderstand me because I'm in no way, shape or form "anti plain edge">> that isn't what my mission is about at all. I just want to inform the people and most of them are completely unaware of the excellent utility tool that the Spyderedge can be for them. And Spyderco's serrations are truly the best out there without much argument at all. Because when I got my very first Spyder back in 1995 which was a GIN-1, SE Mariner model I had not up till then embraced serrated edged knives hardly at all. It was when I first started using them for utility purposes back in the late 90s when I discovered just how great these Spyderedged tools are.

And as far as Hawkbills go it wasn't until I took one by mistake on day ( VG-10 SE Spyderhawk) and had to use it for a very hard job that I realized that these Spyderedged Hawkbills are truly super tools if used properly>> and much safer to use than many standard blade designs. Then when I discovered both the Spyderedge's utility potential and what a premium Hawkbill is capable of I became a complete convert of both. But it never at any time made me want to veer away from plain edges. I use Spyderedged blades and SE Hawkbill blades mainly as companion tools. But I do use a Spyderedge a lot more than most knife users do and it's because I discovered just how great these Spyderedged tools will work when used on the right jobs.

I like this new thread that DOUG C started because he is trying to obtain some information I haven't been able to get so far. And that is which blade steel you all think works best on Spyderedges>> up till now nobody has really scrutinized which blade steels are best for Spyderedges and I think that's what Doug is trying to find out as well. Because the steels that make super plain edges don't necessarily make good Spyderedges. H-1 being a prime example. AUS-8 being another example, And 440V which wasn't a bad PE steel but for Spyderedges it's the "Cat's Meow" for sure. And I was wanting to know which blade steels most people liked with Spyderedges and why?? >> because Spyderedges require different metal properties than plain edges for the most part and have much different demands than plain edges for sure.

No I'm not anti plain edge but I'm on a mission to learn more about my beloved Spyderedge>> the blade steels, the applications and the advantages.

[DougC-3]

Thanks for your input and extra information, Joe. I know there's overlap between this thread and your Spyderedge Steels thread, which actually has a huge amount of information on the subject, but I was also looking for more info with a personal slant about how the steels relate to people's individual uses for their knives.

I was also wondering if steels, for example, VG-10, are ever given a different heat treatment for less hardness and more toughness when they are going to be used for serrated edges.

[JD Spydo]

Thanks for your input and extra information, Joe. I know there's overlap between this thread and your Spyderedge Steels thread, which actually has a huge amount of information on the subject, but I was also looking for more info with a personal slant about how the steels relate to people's individual uses for their knives.

I was also wondering if steels, for example, VG-10, are ever given a different heat treatment for less hardness and more toughness when they are going to be used for serrated edges.

Actually DougC I'm glad you launched this thread because like yourself I was hoping to get people to tell us what their favorite blade steel is for Spyderedges and so far few have spoke out about it.

This has been a good thread and I like it when people just tell you straight up how it is and why they like a certain item. We need to get the information out on Spyderedges because most people have pre-conceived ideas and are even somewhat phobic about Spyderedges>> and definitely have reservations about sharpening them which I believe are unfounded.

Today I used my 440V SE NATIVE quite a bit and it's ironic that one of my oldest Spyders and one I ignored for years is becoming one of my favorites in the work place. Had I known earlier how good Spyderedges were and particularly how good they are with 440V blade steel I would have been using them daily a long time ago.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Well let me ask this: When it comes specifically to the Tasman Salt model, would a Plain Edge version diminish its use for water activities, fish-processing, rescue actions, and other uses? Also, would it be useful for rescue purposes, or, does the pointed tip make it far too dangerous? Obviously, a seatbelt cutter it would do well as, but it could also poke the human person.

[PayneTrain]

I don't always use Spyderedge, but when I do, I prefer...well actually I don't have a preferred steel. I have SE knives in H1, VG-10, and G2, and they all work pretty well. H1 is obviously the coolest kid in town, but VG-10 is a great steel to use serrated and so is G2. I think Spyderedged knives should be made in tougher, easier to sharpen steel as opposed to something crazy like 10V or ZDP because while the 701 Profiles were made for serrations, it's still not as easy as a plain edge. G2 is super easy to sharpen so it's fun to use, but it obviously loses in edge retention to VG-10 and probably H1. I haven't used my H1 a whole lot because I'm a horrible fisherman, but after sawing through a few bait fish and one striper head, it's still wicked sharp so I have high hopes.

As to why I grab my Spyderedge knives, that's simple. They are called to duty when something needs to be cut, cut now, and cut at all costs. They are destroyers of media, unapologetic and ruthless, and they get the job done. When I need cutting power over finesse, I grab a Spyderedge. Ok so they aren't that crude and can perform controlled slices, but that's not what I grab them for. They get the tough jobs. Heavy cardboard, nylon straps, rope, twigs, even kydex. They're especially good at slicing bread and trimming fingernails too!

[stalag2]

Vg10 and Ats 55 are the two most used SE steels i have, i also got a Warrior and a Caspian but it is somehow hard to compare between them and a full blown SE, i also own a CE Chinook1 (440v) but again, pretty hard to compare with a fully serrated blade.
My vote goes to VG10 though, i just feel good when sharpening it be it PE or SE.

[JD Spydo]

Vg10 and Ats 55 are the two most used SE steels i have, i also got a Warrior and a Caspian but it is somehow hard to compare between them and a full blown SE, i also own a CE Chinook1 (440v) but again, pretty hard to compare with a fully serrated blade.
My vote goes to VG10 though, i just feel good when sharpening it be it PE or SE.

There isn't anything wrong with ATS-55 in Spyderedge. The Warrior and Caspian Salt are truly great blades from the H-1 Salt series and nothing needs ot be said. Now the more I use 440V for Spyderedges the more I like it and it's getting close to being my favorite SE blade steel.

It's sort of ironic with all the new super blade steels but yet some of the older ones seem to be best for Spyderedges. It's kind of like what Yogi Berra said "It's Deja Vu All Over Again"

[elena86]

H1 is my steel of choise for blades with teeth.Next is VG10.I looove spyderedges.If I could only own one spydie it would certainly be a SE.It would be a tough competition between Police SS,SE, Tasman Salt SE, Harpy and Pacific Salt SE.Among other usefull things spyderedges could be great for discouraging bad guys.In fact, my waved Matriarch saved my but once.Ever since, I never live my house without a spydie claw.Usually it's my beloved Harpy.Great blades for cutting joints :D

[Blerv]

Anything that normally would slide off the blade. Plastic bags for example. SE (besides other various benefits) gives you a number of tips that stab and grab into even the slickest of things.

[Onionman]

My Spyderco Military SE is great for yard work. Great for clearing out vines and brush in my boxwoods, cutting rope and twine, and opening various bags of topsoil and mulch. One pull with the SE along a thick vine or weed usually does the trick. My SE really can't be replaced by a PE blade for this work. I have tried some PE blades and despite being sharper than the SE, just don't get it done as quickly. I love the look of my PE blades, but unless you want really pretty cuts, the SE does everything and more than the PE.

[apollo]

I have limmited experience with SE.
But for a year now i have a harpy (vg10) and is suprizes me almost every time i use it.
Now i am a plain edge fan. But i must say if spyderco would make a SE harpy sprint with g10 i would be al over it.
I am thinking even of buying a spare SS harpy in the future. It is a great design and one **** of a cutter.
I use mine for the "rough" stuff. that i meen by al the cutting shores that can be cut leaving a more rougher pattern behind.

Yesterday in the woods i cut my way true a few bushes with the harpy and it did the job even better then a PE one i must say. Then again i still love the "feeling" a PE gives when you cut with it a thousand times more. :) But an SE blade is definatly a great tool to have on youre side! :)

[JD Spydo]

Well let me ask this: When it comes specifically to the Tasman Salt model, would a Plain Edge version diminish its use for water activities, fish-processing, rescue actions, and other uses? Also, would it be useful for rescue purposes, or, does the pointed tip make it far too dangerous? Obviously, a seatbelt cutter it would do well as, but it could also poke the human person.

The answer in short about whether or not a plain edged TASMAN has less all around cutting capability than a Spyderedged version>> the answer is a definite YES!! Because the serrated Hawkbill can do so much more with rope, cordage and rugged materials like cardboard, leather and many polymers. Once you use an SE TASMAN or HARPY or SPYDERHAWK you will never look back.

But I didn't say that the PE Hawkbill had no uses because I own a few of them myself. But there are 3 to 4 times as many uses for a Spyderedged Hawkbill over a plain edged one. Trust me I've done about anything in the work arena you could do with a Hawkbill blade and SE wins hands down.

AS far as seatbelts, animal hide, cardboard and cordage the SE Hawkbill is truly the way to fly. Now you mentioned processing fish>> that's probably one exception because I have used both my PE Tasman and PE VG-10 Spyderhawk for that very purpose on more than one occasion and they worked well for gutting trout especially.

[Eee]

My favourite 2 Serrated Edges happen to be in s30v, but I don't think it's the steel, it's the grinds.

My UKPK Rescue has shallow scallops which don't bind and is a regular EDC. The other star is a PM1; the flat grind seems to make it work better. I friend of mine has borrowed it and as a result has managed to find one of his own.