Manix 2 Battle: S110V FRN LW or Cruwear Gray G10

[FDE]

Yes sprint manix 2s have milled liners.
If I recall correctly the weights goes as follows:
Light weight - 3oz
Sprint G10 milled liners - 4oz
Regular production G10 - 5oz

[Ankerson]

They are still just over 4oz. Besides the heft my main complaint is the jimp-crazy handle.

Yeah, too much jimping for me also.

[Evil D]

I don't think that's the reason there's going to be a frenzy over the Cruwear. Look at the reaction here - there's a lot of demand for it.

I was just being facetious

They are still just over 4oz. Besides the heft my main complaint is the jimp-crazy handle.

Pretty easy to fix, and I thought it looked pretty awesome.

[Blerv]

Pretty easy to fix, and I thought it looked pretty awesome.

Oh for sure. Most things are. I just tend to go the path of least resistance. That and G10 isn't my ideal material anyways.

[JNewell]

Pretty easy to fix, and I thought it looked pretty awesome.

That's very nice work. Nothing like a closeup to show off a good job, or one that wasn't so good. :)

[ManixFan]

LW S110V all the way for me. For ergos, performance, and practicality, nothing can kick it out of my pocket since I got mine.

I do have the Grey Cruwear Millie, but don't care for G-10 in that light of a color because it shows dirt/stains way too easily, for instance it gets stained blue from carrying in dark wash jeans. I can get the stains off pretty easily with magic eraser or something like that, but it's just kind of an annoyance to deal with, so I don't carry it very often.

This grey G10 Cruwear Sprint might be a perfect candidate for a Rit dye job to solve this problem and also to re-produce the denim-like blue of the S110V Manix LtWt that I like so much.....add a deep carry Ti clip and I'm all set! :D

[ZL1]

I'd probably go with the Grey G10 model for the looks

[ManixFan]

This grey G10 Cruwear Sprint might be a perfect candidate for a Rit dye job to solve this problem and also to re-produce the denim-like blue of S110V Manix LtWt that I like so much.....add a deep carry Ti clip and I'm all set! :D

I was just looking at RadioactiveSpyder's Forest Green Dragonfly thread and came across his Manbug dye job that took it from a grey G10 to a very nice looking blue that would probably blend in nicely with jeans.

I am curious what colour(s) and qty of Rit dye was used to get that colour? From the thread it sounds as though you just dumped it into the same pot that you had just used to make the Forest Green? Is that right? The dark green Rit dye turned the grey G10 Manbug into a blue?

See original thread below........

Here's two pics of how the Manbug turned out (it still needs some cleaning, you can see some purplish residue on the metal, lanyard hole, etc. Lanyard tube on the Dfly is still a little out on one side too ):





As you can see, the colors do not match despite being them dipped into the same pot of dye. The Manbug looks much more blue-green. It looks alright I guess, but not exactly what I was hoping for. I may dye the Manbug scales black, I think that will look pretty sharp (and likely better than this shade). I may wait a bit on that though to maybe grab another G10 Dfly and dye its scales black as well! I will also likely take the Manbug apart so I can clean it off properly. While it was certainly convenient that it was small enough to dip in the pot, the hours I've spent cleaning the residue off has not been worth it. Plus I know as hard as I try to clean it without taking it apart, the metal won't ever look fully sparkly until I give the parts a good clean and scrub piece by piece.

[bdblue]

I tend to think of the Manix 2 as a working knife or hard use knife, and something like the PM2 as a general use knife. So I think the Manix 2 should be in Cruwear and the PM2 should be in stainless (at least M390). But I haven't had experience yet with the LW Manix 2. Maybe the LW is best in S110V and the G10 is best in Cruwear. I'm thinking I would like to buy the Cruwear version, that is if it isn't already too late which it might be.

Now that the S110V production has been started, ultimately it is a good bet that both the Manix 2 and the PM2 will be available in better stainless steels.

[shunsui]

Pretty easy to fix, and I thought it looked pretty awesome.

Does look nice. What did you use to do that ?

[Evil D]

Does look nice. What did you use to do that ?

Took the knife apart (those are actually sprint run skeletonized liners that I think Blerv gave me, sorry I forgot!) And used sandpaper barrels on a Dremel. I used the scale as a guide and checked for flushness periodically. They actually still bite your skin pretty well and still provide traction but in a much gentler way. If you took that further and ground out every other tooth to allow your skin to sink in better it would be very functional. I've had other knives with recessed jimping like this and it's great. It grips when you bear down with a tight grip but is smooth feeling otherwise.

[shunsui]

Thanks, may give that a try sometime.

[JNewell]

You must have very steady hands. I would use a spindle sander for that job if I wanted results that nice.

Took the knife apart (those are actually sprint run skeletonized liners that I think Blerv gave me, sorry I forgot!) And used sandpaper barrels on a Dremel. I used the scale as a guide and checked for flushness periodically. They actually still bite your skin pretty well and still provide traction but in a much gentler way. If you took that further and ground out every other tooth to allow your skin to sink in better it would be very functional. I've had other knives with recessed jimping like this and it's great. It grips when you bear down with a tight grip but is smooth feeling otherwise.

[RadioactiveSpyder]

I was just looking at RadioactiveSpyder's Forest Green Dragonfly thread and came across his Manbug dye job that took it from a grey G10 to a very nice looking blue that would probably blend in nicely with jeans.

I am curious what colour(s) and qty of Rit dye was used to get that colour? From the thread it sounds as though you just dumped it into the same pot that you had just used to make the Forest Green? Is that right? The dark green Rit dye turned the grey G10 Manbug into a blue?

See original thread below........

Hi, yes, this Manbug went into the dark green pot and came out that teal color. I bet the grey Manix 2 scales will take blue nicely if put in the blue or dark blue RIT dye! I'm definitely thinking of picking up a second one for a S110V blade swap too. Good luck and post pics if you do a set yourself. Cheers, Radioactive :)

[ManixFan]

Hi, yes, this Manbug went into the dark green pot and came out that teal color. I bet the grey Manix 2 scales will take blue nicely if put in the blue or dark blue RIT dye! I'm definitely thinking of picking up a second one for a S110V blade swap too. Good luck and post pics if you do a set yourself. Cheers, Radioactive :)

Thanks for the clarification! I will certainly post pics when I finally do my first Rit dye job.

[m6steen]

Lightweight S110V (or CTS BD1) for me. It's about 2oz lighter and I find the Para-military 2 more comfortable in the Cruwear size class.

[Ned]

I chose s110v for all the same reasons everyone else did.

[Holland]

Id take the s110v for sure. A super light package with amazing cutting ability

[Evil D]

You must have very steady hands. I would use a spindle sander for that job if I wanted results that nice.

Oh absolutely, if you have access to a spindle sander then that would be perfect. My hands are pretty steady I guess, I've done tattoos in the past and I'm an artist so working with my hands is sort of what I do, you just have to go very slow and never stay in one spot for too long. I used the Dremel in the same grip that you would hold a knife in when peeling an apple (if that makes sense) and made long sweeping grinds over the top of all the jimping points at the same time so they were all as even as possible. If you just go really slow and check your work against the curve of the scale every few passes once you get close, it's really pretty simple. Keeping the sanding barrel flat so the tops of the teeth end up square is the most challenging part. If you look close some of mine are slightly rounded, which I think a barrel sander would prevent. You could probably even chuck the Dremel sanding barrel bit into a drill press and lock the press down at the table and use that in the same way you would a spindle sander.

[JNewell]

Yes on the drill press, but in most cases lateral pressure on the quill will sooner or later wear the bushings or bearings and you'll wind up with a pretty sloppy drill press, which is pretty useless. :o :)