Wouldn't a Manix 2 LW in H1 be awesome?

[zhyla]

S110V is great but you know what would be an awesome Manix2 Lightweight variant? H1. Sure, you'd have to go back to a hollow grind but that nice big blade and linerless construction just screams for a Salt version to me.

But not in yellow, please :)

[Evil D]

I think there was just a thread about this about a week ago.

[Fresh Eddie Fresh]

I want a yellow one... serrated!

[wrdwrght]

Yellow PE and I'm in.

[sir_mike]

They would have to make it alittle lighter, the XL is kinda heavy to me at least but I would take one in H1. :)

[lpc]

Here's the last one:
http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... -2-LW-Salt

As I said in the last thread, I would get one.

[Blerv]

I recall that Myodo only let Spyderco use H1 in the Golden-made "Autonomy" due to it being an automatic opener.

How about LC200N or 440a/b/c?

[twinboysdad]

It would be hard to make the lock mechanism of the Manix 2 in H1 I would think

[BadFish]

Fully serrated please!!

[TomAiello]

I'd be in for one. SE and yellow would be cool.

I'd go for LC200 also, but isn't that going to drive the price up quite a bit?

[zhyla]

It would be hard to make the lock mechanism of the Manix 2 in H1 I would think

You thinking the spring can't be made in a rust resistant steel? That's certainly a concern. I think springs can be had in a "stainless" alloy. The bearing of course can be.

[rybu0305]

I was just getting ready to start a new thread on this and then searched first. I know this is old but I would love to see a yellow H1 Manix. 2017?

[Blerv]

I was just getting ready to start a new thread on this and then searched first. I know this is old but I would love to see a yellow H1 Manix. 2017?

If you could cross land barriers I think the FRCP Native5 has a better chance. Even then it might have to be hollow-ground.

Getting lock components that won't rust are the tough part. Then again, the Tusk is LC200N and is more or less rust-proof with the same lock. Maybe we should be asking for a Tusk version of the Manix2 LW...it wouldn't be cheap but dang it would be cool in titanium.

[Evil D]

I'm still in for one if it's serrated.

[anagarika]

Lockback Manix in H1 maybe?

[Surfingringo]

For the record, the Manix LW in s110v is pretty dang corrosion resistant. I used mine numerous times in the kayak and was not able to see any rust. This same protocol is enough to see spotting and pitting on s30v, cpm154, s90v and every other stainless steel I have used. S110v performs very well. I also didn't notice any corrosion issued in the CBBL.

Now please note, this was only tested for less than a week and I did not subject it to the same level of abuse that my h1 knives get. I often throw them in the sink covered in salt and blood and don't even clean them until the next morning when I give them a rinse in the saltwater. The s110v manix would obviously rust under those conditions. I do however feel confident that were it my only knife, I would be able to keep it relatively rust free with proper care...even in my harsh work environment.

[Evil D]

My interest is actually less about all out rust prevention, and more because I just like H1 with serrations.

[ZrowsN1s]

I would dig a manix 2 in h1 yellow or not. i like mine plain edge, but i dont mind sharpening often.
i had a strong desire for a PM2 in ZDP-189, but i was told what i will tell you. they dont put the Japanese steels, vg10, zdp, h1, on the knives they make in colorado. and there probably wont be any s110v delicas or enduras. so as cool as an h1 manix sounds, it may never happen.

[Cujobob]

I think a Manix 2 in H1 is a very niche product that wouldn't sell well. Outside of diving, I think H1 is overkill for corrosion resistance at the cost of edge retention. Plenty of nitrogen steels can hold up to regular use in conditions where salt and such can cause corrosion concerns.

[Evil D]

I think a Manix 2 in H1 is a very niche product that wouldn't sell well. Outside of diving, I think H1 is overkill for corrosion resistance at the cost of edge retention. Plenty of nitrogen steels can hold up to regular use in conditions where salt and such can cause corrosion concerns.

I think it really depends on what your level of contact with salt water really is. You may live by the coast and do a lot of recreation in the ocean and never need the level of rust prevention that H1 provides, but what if you're out on a boat in the ocean for extended periods of time with only the tools you have? Do you wanna take a chance on rust happening, or is that extra peace of mind worth having? Personally I'd rather have to touch up my knife more often and know it won't rust, than have what could be a negligible amount of extra edge retention and end up with a rusty pivot.

A great example..
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=70284


But yeah, I do agree that this is a very extreme example and that most of us don't need that level of rust prevention. But, there's always a place for steels like this. On the other side of the spectrum, there isn't anything truly unique about something like Super Blue that any of us "need", but we accept the possibility of rust just to have the steel. People who like H1 just accept that it doesn't hold an edge as well as other steels but they're happy with the trade off of never having to worry about rust. You or I may never really appreciate that need or want for all out rust protection, but obviously people do since the Salt knives seem to be great sellers.

If I were given a choice between some of the older steel choices like 440 or AUS6/8 or BD1 or GEN1 and all those early steels that Spyderco use, I'd just assume take H1 and have that corrosion resistance, since the edge retention isn't going to be so much better with those steels, if at all.