New Manix 2 XL

MacLaren · #41

Could/would someone care to educate me on tuffglide? And how/should I maintain the blade (s) on my knives (2 s30v 1 vg10) Or maybe there is a sticky for rookies and maintenance lol?

HorserloverFat · #42

MacLaren wrote:Maybe the black ones are just on the XL's?

Negative. The photograph in the catalog shows the Manix 2 G-10 with black buttons : http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=418

78lilred · #43

MacLaren wrote:Could/would someone care to educate me on tuffglide? And how/should I maintain the blade (s) on my knives (2 s30v 1 vg10) Or maybe there is a sticky for rookies and maintenance lol?

S30v and vg-10 are pretty rust resistant, keep them dry when not in use and an occasional light coat of oil.

MacLaren · #44

HorserloverFat wrote:Negative. The photograph in the catalog shows the Manix 2 G-10 with black buttons : http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=418

I would imagine they very easily could have ran out of the clear ones and just used some of the black ones. Pretty cool its that way if ya ask me. Maybe even unique.

MacLaren · #45

78lilred wrote:S30v and vg-10 are pretty rust resistant, keep them dry when not in use and an occasional light coat of oil.

very well then. That's good to know. Thanx man.

MacLaren · #46

HorserloverFat wrote:What is the " cbbl " ? I'm fairly new to carrying a knife. And would you please elaborate on oiling the pivot and cbbl with nano oil for a novice. Thanks.

cbbl and nano oil. As for oil I just use my M-Pro 7. Was hoping someone could elaborate on the cbbl? Thanx guys.

Surfingringo · #47

Cbbl=Caged ball bearing lock. The lock on your manix. :)

Strong-Dog · #48

MacLaren wrote:Could/would someone care to educate me on tuffglide? And how/should I maintain the blade (s) on my knives (2 s30v 1 vg10) Or maybe there is a sticky for rookies and maintenance lol?

You don't really need to maintain those steels. As long as you don't try to get them to rust, they pretty much won't. For lube I have to recommend nano-oil. Put two drops on each side of the pivot and be amazed.

MacLaren · #49

Surfingringo wrote:Cbbl=Caged ball bearing lock. The lock on your manix. :)

ahh......I see sayith the blind man...... :)

MacLaren · #50

Strong-Dog wrote:You don't really need to maintain those steels. As long as you don't try to get them to rust, they pretty much won't. For lube I have to recommend nano-oil. Put two drops on each side of the pivot and be amazed.

Cool.

HorserloverFat · #51

Strong-Dog wrote:You don't really need to maintain those steels. As long as you don't try to get them to rust, they pretty much won't. For lube I have to recommend nano-oil. Put two drops on each side of the pivot and be amazed.

Thanks, I'm ready to be amazed but where exactly on the pivot? :D (Probably a dumb question.) I guess that my fear of overoiling comes from Glock ownership. And I appreciate all of the good advice.

78lilred · #52

As close to the washers as possible, less is more in this case as excess will just hold debris.

tvenuto · #53

I'm not 100% on this, but I believe there were two changes made to the XL. One was changing the cage from clear to black, as noted. This was just a color change, I'm pretty sure the material stayed the same. The second was that they milled out the liners to lighten the knife. I'm not sure if these changes were made concurrently, but I do know that my standard XL has a clear cage and solid liners. My S90V XL has milled liners and a black cage.

78lilred · #54

tvenuto wrote:I'm not 100% on this, but I believe there were two changes made to the XL. One was changing the cage from clear to black, as noted. This was just a color change, I'm pretty sure the material stayed the same. The second was that they milled out the liners to lighten the knife. I'm not sure if these changes were made concurrently, but I do know that my standard XL has a clear cage and solid liners. My S90V XL has milled liners and a black cage.

Black cage and milled liners checking in, S90V.

MacLaren · #55

Yes sir. My liners are milled out as well.

HorserloverFat · #56

78lilred wrote:As close to the washers as possible, less is more in this case as excess will just hold debris.

A photo or video would be helpful. :)

78lilred · #57

With the blade closed, look down thru where the choil jimping is. You'll see the bronze washers peaking at you.

This is such a horrible picture.... Try not to put lube directly on the tang it may make the ball stick.

HorserloverFat · #58

^
Thanks. This is more helpful.

tlo14290 · #59

Looong day at work. Surfinggringo explained cbbl. Nano oil ( http://www.nano-oil.com ) contains itty bitty particles that stick to metal and lubricate most efficiently and for a long time. A 1/2 oz bottle w/ a skinny needle type applicator costs $26 shipped, and will last you a while. 10 wt is good. Just use tiny drops between the blade and the liners, as close to the pivot washers as possible, as per 78lilred's pic, and a wee bit where the ball rides on the back of the blade.

Will also work very well on your Glock(s). Clean the gun reasonably well, no need to get 100% of the previous lube off and put tiny drops in all the usual places, frame ears, all the sliding parts of the trigger mech and striker, very thin film on the barrel and lockup areas. Makes the gun run real slick! Smooths up that famous Glock trigger a bit, too.

Good stuff. A little goes a very long way, I put 2 drops in an old padlock, some got on the key, and now, not only is the other same keyed lock lubed real nice, but a bit got on my car key next door on the key ring, and now my drivers door lock is working real smooth!

I digress. Enjoy your XL, and get yourself a PM2 sometime, you'll love it too!

HorserloverFat · #60

I need to acquire some of this miraculous Nano oil : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JUgTFZ8Yr8