Am I a traitor if I buy an Edge Pro Apex 4?

Cujobob · #21

I spent a huge chunk of money recently on a WE Pro Pack II because I'm too impatient to perfect hand sharpening. I think if I knew someone locally who was into knives my learning curve could be shortened some, but since I don't, I find the systems to work really well. The Sharpmarker is great for touch-ups though when I tried re-profiling with the diamond stones I came away disappointed. The EP is really inexpensive for how useful it is and would recommend picking one up if you don't want to spend a big chunk on the Wicked Edge (and assuming that hand sharpening isn't your thing)

jvarn81 · #22

I bought the shapton glass EP set from chef knives to go. Its awesome! I still use the SM for touch ups.

jackknifeh · #23

btron wrote:Hey guys, thanks for the replies! I'm actually looking to get into freehand sharpening. Not sure if I want to spend the money on Shapton or Chosera stones yet, but I was looking at the Naniwa Super Stones.

First you ask about the EP. Then you mention getting into free-hand sharpening. MAN! I'm glad I'm not in your shoes (any more :D ). I got the EP 3-4 years ago I think. Evil had a good suggestion about getting the least expensive EP setup you can get and then get some different stones. I got Shapton glass stones for the EP. I have every one from 500 to 16k but you DO NOT need them all. I also have 4 Shapton glass bench stones. Grits 320, 1k, 4k and 8k. I believe the same grits would be fine for the EP. In fact the 8k is not needed at all unless you want to persue mirror bevels and really smooth edges. If you get an EP and money is not completely plentiful I'd get the 320, 1k and 4k if you want Shapton glass. Other higher priced stones I don't know about. But, if you want to spend just a little bit on stones get some moldmasters from congresstools.com. You would need to mount them on the aluminum blanks yourself. I got the aluminum material at Lowe's in 36 or 48" lengths and cut them myself. This is about 1/4 the price of buying them already cut. The aluminum is soft and easily cut with a hacksaw. But a Dremel makes short work of the task. I like the performance of the moldmasters more than the EP water stones but that is a personal thing. Moldmasters leave a very consistant scratch pattern and cut fast. But, if you have the extra cash I'd suggest the Shapton glass. Or Choseras. Or something else. The EP controls the angle and you can get FLAT bevels at a known angle. It's one of the better systems and only rivaled by the Wicked Edge as I understand it. Never used a WE. A few here have it and love it.

So if all that isn't enough to think about you are also considering free hand sharpening. You do like things complicated don't you? :) If you get bench stones please consider the Spyderco stones. I have the fine and UF 2"x8" stones and LOVE them. Same stones as thd SM. They are absolutely great IMO. As with the SM though they are not much for reprofiling or doing a lot of work on really dull edges. Spyderco has the finer grits covered well in sharpening tools but the coarser stones need to be a different brand. For an economical option I'd say DMT coarse or extra-coarse. Then use the med., fine, UF Spyderco stones. The UF stone is really not needed at all. The fine grit does a great job. Personally, I'd only get the med. and fine grit Spyderco bench stones if you go with Spyderco. Get the UF later if you want it. BUt if you want to go the water stone routh I found a combination stone on ebay just today that looks interesting. Here's the link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200970272480?ss ... 1436.l2649
These stones come from Japan and it will take a month of so to get them but they look great and the price is great. You also get a slurry stone with the set I think.

Here is one thing I believe. Whatever you decide, don't go in two directions. Don't persue mastering the EP and free hand sharpening at the same time. The EP is easy to get proficient with but after several months you will develope a "touch" that will get you the really sharp edges. After one day or one week your edges will be very sharp but once you really get the touch of using light strokes your edges will start whittling hairs. If you want to go that far that is. Or if you go the free hand route, go with that for at least 6 months before trying another method. The thing is ALL of these methods work. It's just a matter of how you want to sharpen. And how much money you want to spend also of course. So which to choose? Have you considered flipping a coin? :D

Good luck.

Jack

hawaiihunter · #24

If buying an edgepro made you a traitor then I would think that there are a lot of traitor's on this forum.

texashawk50 · #25

KME sharpener is the gest bet

texashawk50 · #26

best bet

hey I just woke up