How to protect pivot/tang on caly superblue?
- Surfingringo
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How to protect pivot/tang on caly superblue?
I've got a caly 3.5 sb on the way and I have seen several threads where folks put tuff glide on the pivot/tang area to prevent corrosion. Do you recommend disassembling the knife to do this, or do you just squirt some in there?
- Scottie3000
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- computernut
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Hello to All,
For all my Spyderco folders, I squirt in a few drops of Sentry Solutions TufGlide, let the solvent evaporate, then put in a small amount of Sentry Solutions Hi-Slip grease.
Works a treat :)
I have wondered about the use of dry-lubes that are for use on bicycle chains (e.g. Finish Line Dry Lube or Ceramic Wet lube) ; anybody have any experience of this ?
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
For all my Spyderco folders, I squirt in a few drops of Sentry Solutions TufGlide, let the solvent evaporate, then put in a small amount of Sentry Solutions Hi-Slip grease.
Works a treat :)
I have wondered about the use of dry-lubes that are for use on bicycle chains (e.g. Finish Line Dry Lube or Ceramic Wet lube) ; anybody have any experience of this ?
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
- senorsquare
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I've used a bicycle dry lube on my Cruwear Military. Can't remember if it's Finish Line or another brand, I'll check in a couple of hours. This stuff works fantastic as a lubricant and the operation of the knife is silky smooth. I can't really speak to how it does as a corrosion inhibitor because I honestly don't carry this knife that often. If I remember correctly, I took this one apart and gave the tang a good coating of tuf-glide and applied the bicycle lube after that had dried.PhatMan wrote:I have wondered about the use of dry-lubes that are for use on bicycle chains (e.g. Finish Line Dry Lube or Ceramic Wet lube) ; anybody have any experience of this ?
The irony here is that this stuff is marketed as being used by Navy Seals to protect their equipment from rust and saltwater.JNewell wrote:TuffGlide is a great corrosion inhibitor, but a lousy lube, made worse by the fact that it picks up a lot of grit. Surfgringo, if your conditions include not only salt water but sand, you might want to rethink the TuffGlide.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
I have Landon. Great results, besides voided warranty. Patina is a beautiful thing except in your pivot hole, tang, and tang lock bar interface. Careful application of the Frog Lube allows the best of both worlds, IMHO. Frog Lube "seasons" the metal and does not retain any sticky, wet viscosity like other lubes. Don't know about marine biome performance...don't have many of those in Tennessee. :pxceptnl wrote:I realize it would void warranties, but has anyone used frog lube on a blade pivot / tang yet?
What is truth? Pontius Pilate
paladin wrote:I have Landon. Great results, besides voided warranty. Patina is a beautiful thing except in your pivot hole, tang, and tang lock bar interface. Careful application of the Frog Lube allows the best of both worlds, IMHO. Frog Lube "seasons" the metal and does not retain any sticky, wet viscosity like other lubes. Don't know about marine biome performance...don't have many of those in Tennessee. :p
I have too!
I apply frog lube to the tang of the blade and then place a tiny dot of nano oil under each washer.
Makes for a corrosion resistant tang and smooooth action.
On my M4 Military I only coated the tang and left the rest of the blade uncoated so I could let it develop a patina naturally.
I think much of the fear of rust is unnessecary!
I work on the waterfront and have for quite some time and have never had any corrosion develop on any of my carbon blades... I just wipe them off after using them the same way I do my stainless ones!
- xceptnl
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paladin wrote:I have Landon. Great results, besides voided warranty. Patina is a beautiful thing except in your pivot hole, tang, and tang lock bar interface. Careful application of the Frog Lube allows the best of both worlds, IMHO. Frog Lube "seasons" the metal and does not retain any sticky, wet viscosity like other lubes. Don't know about marine biome performance...don't have many of those in Tennessee. :p
Did either of you heat the blade (with a heat gun or similar) prior to application? How long have you had the blades in use since treatment? Does the seasoning seem to provide sufficient lubrication to the action?Coulro wrote:I have too!
I apply frog lube to the tang of the blade and then place a tiny dot of nano oil under each washer.
Makes for a corrosion resistant tang and smooooth action.
On my M4 Military I only coated the tang and left the rest of the blade uncoated so I could let it develop a patina naturally.
I think much of the fear of rust is unnessecary!
I work on the waterfront and have for quite some time and have never had any corrosion develop on any of my carbon blades... I just wipe them off after using them the same way I do my stainless ones!
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
I used a hair dryer on high heat applied with a dedicated toothbrush...the Frog Lube melts into buttery minty goodness. I think that's good enough...has been for me on all the models I've lubed, so far anyways. A heat gun may be overkill, most people just place their blade/parts on the dashboard of a closed car in summer. I FULLY coated my GB-- blade, tang, liner lock, lanyard hole and have developed NO PATINA...good stuff.xceptnl wrote:Did either of you heat the blade (with a heat gun or similar) prior to application? How long have you had the blades in use since treatment? Does the seasoning seem to provide sufficient lubrication to the action?
What is truth? Pontius Pilate
Hi Folks!
Tuff-Glide do wonders with my Super Blue Calys 3" & 3.5"
Just squirt a drop on each side using the needle and you're ready to go. :) And if you apply a light coat on the blade, a single drop on your finger is enough for both sides, it won't even develop patina, so it really prevent rust.
But remember that while TG stats it's non toxic, it's not FDA approved, so you might don't want it if your blade gets some food prep use.
Tuff-Glide do wonders with my Super Blue Calys 3" & 3.5"
Just squirt a drop on each side using the needle and you're ready to go. :) And if you apply a light coat on the blade, a single drop on your finger is enough for both sides, it won't even develop patina, so it really prevent rust.
But remember that while TG stats it's non toxic, it's not FDA approved, so you might don't want it if your blade gets some food prep use.
Stay Sharp!