How to protect pivot/tang on caly superblue?

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Surfingringo
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How to protect pivot/tang on caly superblue?

#1

Post by Surfingringo »

I've got a caly 3.5 sb on the way and I have seen several threads where folks put tuff glide on the pivot/tang area to prevent corrosion. Do you recommend disassembling the knife to do this, or do you just squirt some in there?
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Scottie3000
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#2

Post by Scottie3000 »

Just squirt some in there.
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gbelleh
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#3

Post by gbelleh »

I've always just squirted it in there, but I just noticed the other day, my SB Caly 3 has rust in the pivot. I'll probably have to remove the blade and try to clean it up soon.

My SB Caly 3.5 has had the same pivot treatment, but it remains rust free.
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xceptnl
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#4

Post by xceptnl »

I have just squirted it in there in the past, mostly hope's lubricant. Lately I have switched to Tuff Glide.
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computernut
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#5

Post by computernut »

The Caly series is washer-less and easy to take apart after taking out the pivot screw. I used tuff-glide after I patina'd it then apply BM BlueLube from time to time.
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PhatMan
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#6

Post by PhatMan »

Hello to All,

For all my Spyderco folders, I squirt in a few drops of Sentry Solutions TufGlide, let the solvent evaporate, then put in a small amount of Sentry Solutions Hi-Slip grease.

Works a treat :)

I have wondered about the use of dry-lubes that are for use on bicycle chains (e.g. Finish Line Dry Lube or Ceramic Wet lube) ; anybody have any experience of this ?

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ
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JNewell
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#7

Post by JNewell »

TuffGlide is a great corrosion inhibitor, but a lousy lube, made worse by the fact that it picks up a lot of grit. Surfgringo, if your conditions include not only salt water but sand, you might want to rethink the TuffGlide.
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xceptnl
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#8

Post by xceptnl »

I realize it would void warranties, but has anyone used frog lube on a blade pivot / tang yet?
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sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
*Landon*
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senorsquare
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#9

Post by senorsquare »

PhatMan wrote:I have wondered about the use of dry-lubes that are for use on bicycle chains (e.g. Finish Line Dry Lube or Ceramic Wet lube) ; anybody have any experience of this ?
I've used a bicycle dry lube on my Cruwear Military. Can't remember if it's Finish Line or another brand, I'll check in a couple of hours. This stuff works fantastic as a lubricant and the operation of the knife is silky smooth. I can't really speak to how it does as a corrosion inhibitor because I honestly don't carry this knife that often. If I remember correctly, I took this one apart and gave the tang a good coating of tuf-glide and applied the bicycle lube after that had dried.
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PhatMan
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#10

Post by PhatMan »

senorsquare,

Many thanks :)

I am giving my S30V/G10 UK Penknife (my EDC) a clean; I will use your method for the lubing :)

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ
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#11

Post by Evil D »

JNewell wrote:TuffGlide is a great corrosion inhibitor, but a lousy lube, made worse by the fact that it picks up a lot of grit. Surfgringo, if your conditions include not only salt water but sand, you might want to rethink the TuffGlide.
The irony here is that this stuff is marketed as being used by Navy Seals to protect their equipment from rust and saltwater.
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paladin
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#12

Post by paladin »

xceptnl wrote:I realize it would void warranties, but has anyone used frog lube on a blade pivot / tang yet?
I have Landon. Great results, besides voided warranty. Patina is a beautiful thing except in your pivot hole, tang, and tang lock bar interface. Careful application of the Frog Lube allows the best of both worlds, IMHO. Frog Lube "seasons" the metal and does not retain any sticky, wet viscosity like other lubes. Don't know about marine biome performance...don't have many of those in Tennessee. :p
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Coulro
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#13

Post by Coulro »

paladin wrote:I have Landon. Great results, besides voided warranty. Patina is a beautiful thing except in your pivot hole, tang, and tang lock bar interface. Careful application of the Frog Lube allows the best of both worlds, IMHO. Frog Lube "seasons" the metal and does not retain any sticky, wet viscosity like other lubes. Don't know about marine biome performance...don't have many of those in Tennessee. :p

I have too!

I apply frog lube to the tang of the blade and then place a tiny dot of nano oil under each washer.

Makes for a corrosion resistant tang and smooooth action.


On my M4 Military I only coated the tang and left the rest of the blade uncoated so I could let it develop a patina naturally.

I think much of the fear of rust is unnessecary!

I work on the waterfront and have for quite some time and have never had any corrosion develop on any of my carbon blades... I just wipe them off after using them the same way I do my stainless ones!
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#14

Post by xceptnl »

paladin wrote:I have Landon. Great results, besides voided warranty. Patina is a beautiful thing except in your pivot hole, tang, and tang lock bar interface. Careful application of the Frog Lube allows the best of both worlds, IMHO. Frog Lube "seasons" the metal and does not retain any sticky, wet viscosity like other lubes. Don't know about marine biome performance...don't have many of those in Tennessee. :p
Coulro wrote:I have too!
I apply frog lube to the tang of the blade and then place a tiny dot of nano oil under each washer.
Makes for a corrosion resistant tang and smooooth action.
On my M4 Military I only coated the tang and left the rest of the blade uncoated so I could let it develop a patina naturally.
I think much of the fear of rust is unnessecary!
I work on the waterfront and have for quite some time and have never had any corrosion develop on any of my carbon blades... I just wipe them off after using them the same way I do my stainless ones!
Did either of you heat the blade (with a heat gun or similar) prior to application? How long have you had the blades in use since treatment? Does the seasoning seem to provide sufficient lubrication to the action?
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sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
*Landon*
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paladin
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#15

Post by paladin »

xceptnl wrote:Did either of you heat the blade (with a heat gun or similar) prior to application? How long have you had the blades in use since treatment? Does the seasoning seem to provide sufficient lubrication to the action?
I used a hair dryer on high heat applied with a dedicated toothbrush...the Frog Lube melts into buttery minty goodness. I think that's good enough...has been for me on all the models I've lubed, so far anyways. A heat gun may be overkill, most people just place their blade/parts on the dashboard of a closed car in summer. I FULLY coated my GB-- blade, tang, liner lock, lanyard hole and have developed NO PATINA...good stuff.
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LC Kid
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#16

Post by LC Kid »

Hi Folks!


Tuff-Glide do wonders with my Super Blue Calys 3" & 3.5"

Just squirt a drop on each side using the needle and you're ready to go.
:) And if you apply a light coat on the blade, a single drop on your finger is enough for both sides, it won't even develop patina, so it really prevent rust.

But remember that while TG stats it's non toxic, it's not FDA approved, so you might don't want it if your blade gets some food prep use.
Stay Sharp!
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Coulro
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#17

Post by Coulro »

paladin wrote:I used a hair dryer on high heat applied with a dedicated toothbrush...the Frog Lube melts into buttery minty goodness.
This is exactly right! Well said paladin!

Mine is showing no signs of patina or corrosion and it seems to work well as a dry lubricant.
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