WorkingEdge wrote:Thanks much go the effort! I got tired just watching you slice that cardboard.
Also feel like I don't need to baby it as much anymore.
Still had to hurt even with the chair.
Yeah.. LOL
Cardboard gets pretty tough sometimes, although I only cut up 2 of the boxes in the video, still a lot, but I cut up 5 or 6 when doing the actual testing for the review threads in the high carbide steels.
My camera only gives me 20 mins of recording time being it's an SLR (D90) so Nikon limited it to 20 Mins for some reason.
As far as S110V goes for the most part if you feel you can do it with S30V then you can do it with S110V also from what I have found from my testing, but with the added benefit of a lot more edge retention.
I believe S110V is a very solid knife steel and haven't found it to be chippy at all.
Jim, good test and video, thanks for the effort. I did pretty much the same test with this knife but got tired of cutting cardboard. Some wonder why cut wood as you did on these type of edge holding tests. Answer is that you can put side loads on the fine edge. Looks like you did this. Cardboard and rope are pretty much edge down with out significant side loads. I check with pine and redwood and then go up to fir, seasoned oak, and other dense hard woods like Becote. Obviously even the toughest low carbide grades will eventually show some damage against this kind of media. Not a controlled test but is useful to get a quick feel for how your particular blade is going to perform in the field. Phil
Jim, nice test, and video. Cardboard can do significant edge damage especially if you hit some junk in there. Looks like this edge faired very well. Some wonder why cut wood on a test like this The answer is that with wood you can put some side loads on the blade. Cardboard and rope are pretty much direct down. It is obvious you put some side loads on with this test and if there were any issues with the edge with this geometry and sharpening it would have shown up. The heat treat here looks like a good balance between hardness and ductility. Thanks for the effort. Phil
Phil Wilson wrote:Jim, good test and video, thanks for the effort. I did pretty much the same test with this knife but got tired of cutting cardboard. Some wonder why cut wood as you did on these type of edge holding tests. Answer is that you can put side loads on the fine edge. Looks like you did this. Cardboard and rope are pretty much edge down with out significant side loads. I check with pine and redwood and then go up to fir, seasoned oak, and other dense hard woods like Becote. Obviously even the toughest low carbide grades will eventually show some damage against this kind of media. Not a controlled test but is useful to get a quick feel for how your particular blade is going to perform in the field. Phil
Phil Wilson wrote:Jim, nice test, and video. Cardboard can do significant edge damage especially if you hit some junk in there. Looks like this edge faired very well. Some wonder why cut wood on a test like this The answer is that with wood you can put some side loads on the blade. Cardboard and rope are pretty much direct down. It is obvious you put some side loads on with this test and if there were any issues with the edge with this geometry and sharpening it would have shown up. The heat treat here looks like a good balance between hardness and ductility. Thanks for the effort. Phil
Looks like the forum is back and better with the upgrade. :)
