Y u no cpm-m4?

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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wrdwrght
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#21

Post by wrdwrght »

Blerv wrote:Otherwise having the Bradley Folder and Air as normal production is pretty awesome.
Having both, I couldn't agree more, but sprints are fun to contemplate. :)
-Marc (pocketing an M4 Sage5 today)

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Donut
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#22

Post by Donut »

What ever happened to the smaller, lighter version of the Bradley folder?
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TomAiello
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#23

Post by TomAiello »

My Manix 2 M4 has ceracoat on the blade, which has to help the corrosion worries.

I was actually thinking of sending my k390 mule off for NP3, but I'm waiting until I get something else to replace it on my belt every day.
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donutsrule
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#24

Post by donutsrule »

I'm not supposed to be buying more knives at the moment ;) but...
A sprint of M4 bladed Chaparrals or otherwise titanium PPT (or a tan Manix 2 that didn't cost $250+ on the bay) would be something I'd leap to buy.
dogrunner
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#25

Post by dogrunner »

Screwdriver wrote:I have more blades in carbon than I do stainless....just a little common sense and you will not have an issue with rust. I would love an M4 PM2 or Endura.
I'd go for either PM2 or Endura, but I would really like to see more lightweight, affordable FRN models such as Endura in higher performance steels like M4. I can't afford another PM2, but really appreciate the endura and delica platforms.
knivefanatic
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#26

Post by knivefanatic »

I don't understand the mentality of m4 being a good steel because it rusts so easily, arent good steels supposed to be rust resistant?
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bearfacedkiller
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#27

Post by bearfacedkiller »

M4 Para2 or M4 Native5 please! and a Cruwear Para2! and a Super Blue Police3 :D
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Evil D
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#28

Post by Evil D »

knivefanatic wrote:I don't understand the mentality of m4 being a good steel because it rusts so easily, arent good steels supposed to be rust resistant?
If that were the only aspect that matters, H1 or Ti (among others) would be regarded as the best steel available, but that's hardly the case.
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Strong-Dog
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#29

Post by Strong-Dog »

Evil D wrote:If that were the only aspect that matters, H1 or Ti (among others) would be regarded as the best steel available, but that's hardly the case.
Don't forget 440A. Haha
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Blerv
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#30

Post by Blerv »

Well you can't get H1 in knives that you can get m4 so it depends on what knife you want.

Steel is a spectrum of properties (pros and cons) that you have to filter through your personal preferences. There isn't a "best". It's like saying the best color is blue and the best vegetable is a potato.
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#31

Post by Cliff Stamp »

knivefanatic wrote:I don't understand the mentality of m4 being a good steel because it rusts so easily, arent good steels supposed to be rust resistant?
It isn't considered a good steel because it is easy to rust, similar to you would not for example say hemp is a good rope material because it can rot. People who would rate M4 as a good knife steel do so because of its positive properties such as ease of sharpening and high edge holding which can exceed common stainless steels like ATS-34. They are willing to sacrifice the low corrosion resistance to obtain those other properties. Just like people would say hemp is a good rope material not because it rots, but because they may not be using it in conditions where it rots so they don't need that, just like they may not be using a knife in corrosive conditions so it doesn't matter that the M4 isn't stainless.
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#32

Post by TomAiello »

knivefanatic wrote:I don't understand the mentality of m4 being a good steel because it rusts so easily, arent good steels supposed to be rust resistant?
There are a lot of different attributes of steel, and it's possible for some to be "good" while others are "not good". It's almost impossible to find a knife that's "best" in every way.

My Manix 2 M4 is easy to sharpen, takes a very nice edge, and holds the edge for a long time. It's also pretty tough (meaning that the edge doesn't seem to chip very easily). It's better in all of these ways than my Manix 2 s30v. The trade off for getting "better" in all these categories is that it's "worse" in corrosion resistance.

I'm in the habit of wiping it with Tough Glide every morning when I put it in my pocket and every night when I take it out. That seems to be plenty good enough.

You can get knives in steel that's better in most (or all categories) but that can be far more expensive. M4 is a great performer in many ways, but is non-stainless. The same is true of K390 and 3V. They're great (and high end) steels that trade off corrosion resistance (i.e. they're not stainless) for high marks in most (if not all) other areas.
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jackknifeh
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#33

Post by jackknifeh »

IMO M4 is a great steel and I'k like to see it as an option on existing models. The Manbug, Stretch, D'fly2 and others can be gotten with VG-10 or ZDP-189. I'd love to see a D'fly2 in VG10 and also M4. It is more apt to rust than stainless steels but from my experience it isn't hard to prevent rust with any number of anti-corrosion products. Tuf-Glide/cloth for me. But, I don't work on a shrimp boat or any other lifestyle where corrosion is a major problem. But if I did I think Tuf-Glide would protect the M4 blades. I'd like to hear some experiences of people who do live on the coast. But I'd vote for more M4 if I were asked. I have a D'fly2 on pre-order only because it will have a SB blade. If this sprint had M4 I'd have it on pre-order also I'm sure.

Jack
antidogma
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#34

Post by antidogma »

Would it be possible to DLC coat M4 to get the best of both worlds?
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JNewell
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#35

Post by JNewell »

knivefanatic wrote:I don't understand the mentality of m4 being a good steel because it rusts so easily, arent good steels supposed to be rust resistant?
Not at all true - some of the best cutlery and tool steels are not rust resistant. Historically, good performance meant NOT stainless. High performance stainless steels are a very recent development.
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JNewell
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#36

Post by JNewell »

antidogma wrote:Would it be possible to DLC coat M4 to get the best of both worlds?
Yes, and some knife companies do, but not everyone wants a coated blade, and in any case, the part of the blade we care about most can't be coated at all. :spyder:
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bearfacedkiller
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#37

Post by bearfacedkiller »

antidogma wrote:Would it be possible to DLC coat M4 to get the best of both worlds?
It is believed by some that some coatings increase friction but yes it can be dlc coated. Most 1095 survival knives are coated. I loath coatings, especially thick ones.
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#38

Post by akaAK »

Me, not so much, I have some superblue and M4 but it doesn't really do much for me. I prefer greater corrosion resistance even though I haven't had any issue on these steels.
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#39

Post by kbuzbee »

I'm on board for more M4, SB (pssst, K294 ;) ) I even like the carbon steel Opinel uses, which, as far as I know, is nothing special, but it works great and I love their thin bladed designs.

Corrosion is not a big issue for me and I get edges that are, for whatever reason, sharper. No coatings or laminates, please. As mentioned, you can't coat the edge, anyway.

Ken
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jackknifeh
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#40

Post by jackknifeh »

kbuzbee wrote:I'm on board for more M4, SB (pssst, K294 ;) ) I even like the carbon steel Opinel uses, which, as far as I know, is nothing special, but it works great and I love their thin bladed designs.

Corrosion is not a big issue for me and I get edges that are, for whatever reason, sharper. No coatings or laminates, please. As mentioned, you can't coat the edge, anyway.

Ken
Ken held a gun to my head and made me buy an Opinel. Thanks Ken. :) How about an Opinel with M4. Maybe the wrong forum for this request. :D

Jack
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