M4 Patina help

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Coulro
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Postby Coulro » Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:47 am

kbuzbee wrote:Here's how mine came out:


Ken
That looks awesome!

I had a little trouble forcing a patina on M4 too, read about it here

In the end I just left it and have been using it, it looks like this:

Image

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Liquid Cobra
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Postby Liquid Cobra » Wed Feb 19, 2014 11:04 pm

jackknifeh wrote:I'm looking at my GB now and wanting to put a darker patina on it. I tuf-glided the blade about a month ago I think. I took it apart and cleaned it for fun and normally when I do that I tuf-glide everything. So I'll need to wait another month or two before messing with it because all my efforts to remove any residual tuf-glide are as stressful as trying to patina a M4 blade. :) So, after all your efforts, if you were to put yourself in an asylum doing it again what would your steps be. What would you use? How long? etc. I tried to put a patina on mine before and was only moderately successful and I don't know exactly why. Might have been the tuf-glide. Also, does anyone have any ways to get rid of tuf-glide? It's claim to fame is that it lasts. Good claim. :) I tried gun solvent. I have tried mineral spirits trying to dilute any left on the blade. The only thing that seemed to work was NOT using any more tuf-glide for a few months. I'm also getting the D'fly with super blue when it is released. May force patina on it. Or let it form naturally. Haven't decided.

So how would you do it if you did it today?

Jack
To get this knife looking like this I did the following.

-removed blade and cleaned it with alcohol.
-boiled apple cider vinegar and coated the blade over and over again using cotton balls dipped in the cider, then rinsing the blade off with cold water every couple of minutes to neutralize the vinegar in theory creating a new layer. This didn't really get me anywhere but it's where I started.
-cleaned it again with alcohol and left in in white vinegar for 3 hours, checked it, put it back for another 4 hours. Little to no effect but the blade did seem a little darker and had a few pure black splotches.
-applied rust removed with a toothbrush which transformed the black splotches into black goo that I worked around over as much of the blade as I could.
-rinsed it off and dried it.
-took 2000 grit sandpaper and went to town on the blade which gave it the worn look and my final product.

At least that's how I remember it going. The process was spread out over a couple days. I also at some point stuck the blade in a couple apples for about 10 hours with little to no effect.

If I was to do it again how would I do it? I'd get plenty of rest, get more "me" time and enjoy the nice satin finish the knife came with!
Most recently acquired: DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra

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jackknifeh
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Postby jackknifeh » Thu Feb 20, 2014 7:54 am

I put my GB blade in vinegar last night and took it out a few times. In vinegar 30 minutes or so, out for a while, back in vinegar. Left it in overnight. Took it out once, back in and this is what I have now. I don't know if I want to use sandpaper on it or not. The finest I have is wet/dry 1500. Anyone got input on that before I put it back together?

Image

This is unbelievable compared to my previous tries. HAD TO BE THE TUF-GLIDE. If you don't want your blades to corrode, I think Tuf-Glide is one of the better options.

Sorry about the blurry picture. There must have been a slight earthquake tremor here. Couldn't be me not holding the camera still. No way. :rolleyes:

Jack

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araneae
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Postby araneae » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:32 am

Anyone try ferric chloride? I used it on a Douk Douk and it puts a dark patina on in under 30 seconds.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick

Just got:Rex 45 Para 3 LTWT, Harrier 2 LTWT

The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal

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jackknifeh
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Postby jackknifeh » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:52 am

Got it back together. Couldn't wait. I'm pretty happy with the patinaing process this time. Final touches might make it look better but unless I'm sure I won't mess this up with sandpaper or something, I'll leave it as is. I did wipe the area that isn't seen with Tuf-cloth for added protection. But the blade will continue to form any additional patina (if any) on it's own.

Image
Image
Image

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Liquid Cobra
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Postby Liquid Cobra » Thu Feb 20, 2014 8:55 am

Hard to tell from the pics but it looks nice and consistent nice work.
Most recently acquired: DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra

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jackknifeh
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Postby jackknifeh » Thu Feb 20, 2014 12:02 pm

Patina left knife dull. Touched up. Now look at the blade grind, what used to be a mirror finish and what is now the touched up edge. The bevel is a more even patina finish since it started out so much smoother than the rest of the blade. It's more obvious looking at the knife of course but you can see it in the pics also. So, another projuct for SOMEONE ELSE ( :) ) to do would be to polish their blade prior to forcing a patina or even letting it form on it's own. Just a thought.

Image

Image

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jackknifeh
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Postby jackknifeh » Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:33 pm

Has anyone noticed the blade not moving as easily after forcing a patina on the tang? I notice my blade was off center after adjusting the pivot to my liking when I put it back together. But when I tighten the pivot so the blade is centered there is more resistance to movement than I like. I'm thinking before the tang had this much patina on it there was less friction between the tang and washers. This allowed me to tighten the pivot enough to center the blade without making the pivot too tight. This is what I'm thinking now. It may get easier after it is used some. I'll know soon as I'm going to be using the GB for a while. If the pivot remains a little tighter than I like I'll try Nano-oil which is a little better lube than Quick Release IMO.

Anyway, I was just wondering if anyone has noticed any pivot changes after forcing a patina.

Jack

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kbuzbee
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Postby kbuzbee » Fri Feb 21, 2014 1:56 pm

I have, Jack, to varying degrees.

The most severe way the SB Caly 3, but they all (except the Manix ;) ) do it. Nano Oil does help it though.

Ken
玉鋼

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jackknifeh
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Postby jackknifeh » Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:23 am

kbuzbee wrote:I have, Jack, to varying degrees.

The most severe way the SB Caly 3, but they all (except the Manix ;) ) do it. Nano Oil does help it though.

Ken
Ken, Nano-oil saved the day. I even posted a new thread praising Nano-oil. Yup, another one. :) I also ordered another tube of Nano-Oil 10w. :) I still have money for the kid's shoes since they are now all wearing Spyderco boxes on their feet. :D

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hom76
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Postby hom76 » Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:45 pm

I know it is a bit off topic but would like to seek some advice here. I have just received my new Air and would like to force a patina on it. I tried to dissemble the knife but am unable to loose the pivot screws. They are just too tight. I did want to try very hard as I was afraid stripping the screws. Actually I often encounter this problem with newly purchased knives.

Did you guys encounter this problem before? How would you do?

Thanks a lot!

Cereal_killer
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Postby Cereal_killer » Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:15 pm

hom76 wrote:I know it is a bit off topic but would like to seek some advice here. I have just received my new Air and would like to force a patina on it. I tried to dissemble the knife but am unable to loose the pivot screws. They are just too tight. I did want to try very hard as I was afraid stripping the screws. Actually I often encounter this problem with newly purchased knives.

Did you guys encounter this problem before? How would you do?

Thanks a lot!
It's the locktite holding tight, try heating the knife in a glass of hot water ~200, even boiling for 5 minutes. If that alone doesn't work you can heat it for 5 minutes then stick it in the freezer for 5 minutes and then try, this process will break it free but you may have to repeat several times if the locktite is too strong.

Cereal_killer
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Postby Cereal_killer » Mon Feb 24, 2014 11:17 pm

This is NOT my picture/work but I'll be starting the process on mine tomorrow. I've received detailed instructions and can't wait to see how my first attempt comes out (I've done sever forced patinas before, just never a design like his)

Image

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hom76
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Postby hom76 » Tue Feb 25, 2014 1:44 am

Cereal_killer wrote:It's the locktite holding tight, try heating the knife in a glass of hot water ~200, even boiling for 5 minutes. If that alone doesn't work you can heat it for 5 minutes then stick it in the freezer for 5 minutes and then try, this process will break it free but you may have to repeat several times if the locktite is too strong.
Thanks a lot for your advice. Will this method cause rust on the M4 blade? I worry about the pivot area...

Cereal_killer
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Postby Cereal_killer » Tue Feb 25, 2014 6:16 am

I wouldn't be concerned about it, it'll probabily only take one heating/cooling cycle to work, if your worried you can oil up the blade really well and/or use distilled water.

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hom76
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Postby hom76 » Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:48 am

Cereal_killer wrote:I wouldn't be concerned about it, it'll probabily only take one heating/cooling cycle to work, if your worried you can oil up the blade really well and/or use distilled water.
Thanks! I am gonna try

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anagarika
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Re: M4 Patina help

Postby anagarika » Wed Apr 13, 2016 6:54 pm

I know this is an old thread but I hope this helps someone looking for substance to patina the M4 (posted same on BF):

Update to my pitting issue.
Last night I used my GB to cut open bathing liquid soap refills. Some of it smeared on the blade, when I put it aside while I do the refilling.

Now, those soaps are advertised as pH balanced, so it shouldn't be acidic. I have done this with 8Cr and VG10. No issues! Someone posted long time back that M4 doesn't patina easily. So I didn't expect anything leaving the soap there for a while. Guess what: in less than 10 minutes (maybe 5?) it took to refill, the soap & blade turned black. :eek:

I washed it & yes it formed patina. So I took it apart, washed it clean, and cover pivot, washer & detent track with marker, then smeared the whole blade with the soap. Waited 5-10 mins, keep the soap moving around to make it more even, now it's pearly dark (not a total black) like SB after used to cut apple.

Sorry, no pics yet, but for those looking to patina M4, this supposedly neutral pH soap does it wonderfully. It's the antiseptic type, if it matters.

Hope this help prevent pitting.
Chris :spyder:

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Liquid Cobra
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Re: M4 Patina help

Postby Liquid Cobra » Wed Apr 13, 2016 8:01 pm

Pics or it didn't happen!!!
Most recently acquired: DLC Yojimbo 2, Native Chief, Shaman S90V, Para 3 LW, Ikuchi, UKPK, Smock, SUBVERT, Amalgam, Para 3 CTS-XHP, Kapara, Paramilitary 2 M390
Grail Paramilitary 2 M390 X 2! ACHIEVED!!

For more of my pictures see my Instagram account.
@liquid_cobra

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anagarika
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Re: M4 Patina help

Postby anagarika » Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:27 pm

Previously:
Image
Now: Image
See the bluish tone on the mirrored part.
Chris :spyder:

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paladin
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Re: M4 Patina help

Postby paladin » Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:44 pm

Apply some fingernail polish to the washer contact area & pivot hole before patina treatment...be sure to clean all lube & buff dry before finger nail polish application, spread the polish just a bit larger than the diameter of the bronze washer, let dry, apply patina agent.

Remove nail polish with np remover...now patina should not have affected contact area...

Makes the opening / closing roughness problem a non-issue...works for me


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