Endura with Scandi Grind?

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Would an Endura or Delica work with a Scandi Grind, or that is not the right knife for that type of grind?

[Cliff Stamp]

A single bevel grind can be put on any knife, in general however it is rare the optimal grind unless you really have issues with sharpening and really need that wide bevel. Otherwise the cutting ability, strength to weight ratio, ease of maintenance, cutting ability to durability ratio, etc. are all low with single bevel grinds.

[thehunt]

Did it to an Endura a few years ago, what a lightsabre :-)

The standard-Endura has enough stock for this kind of grind, the FFG would be too thin:

[Evil D]

I was tempted to take my FFG Ladybug ZDP down to a zero bevel but never got around to it. It would likely end up more convex than anything.

[dbcad]

Nice looking edge thehunt :D David, do you remember what Unit did with a ZDP Stretch??

With a vg-10 SG Endura or Delica it might be a lot of fun to play with, but robust all around use might be handicapped.

[ChapmanPreferred]

How long did this take and what abrasives did you use? :)

Did it to an Endura a few years ago, what a lightsabre :-)

The standard-Endura has enough stock for this kind of grind, the FFG would be too thin:

[thehunt]

It was just a try, to see if it would be possible.

I used just waterstones, starting with 280 grit to get the new grind, then moved to 800/1000 to even it out and finished with a 6000 stone.

After that I polished on an old leather beld loaded with simple dried steel polish.

The whole process took about 3 hours, with coffe breaks of course :-)

[Bill1170]

It could work, but I agree with what Cliff stated above. Scandi grinds are advantageous for control when working wood, but otherwise don't perform as well as other grinds.

[phillipsted]

It could work, but I agree with what Cliff stated above. Scandi grinds are advantageous for control when working wood, but otherwise don't perform as well as other grinds.

Scandi (short for Scandinavian) grinds aren't necessarily single bevel grinds. Scandi grinds are usually double-bevel with no edge bevel - often called "zero grinds".

The cool thing about Scandi grinds is that they are very easy to sharpen and maintain in the field. Just lay the bevel on the stone - you don't have to worry about holding the edge at a precise angle off the stone. I've used Enzo knives for years as camping knives (mostly in D2 and O1) and they can take a really good edge and hold it well. And they sharpen up quickly.

Having said that - I end up putting a very small 40 degree edge bevel on almost all my Scandi knives. This makes the edge just a little more stable and enables me to hone it on the Sharpmaker quickly.

TedP

[Cliff Stamp]

Scandi (short for Scandinavian) grinds aren't necessarily single bevel grinds.

By single bevel I mean there is one bevel, not that bevel has to be on one side (chisel). This is in contrast to a flat grind which has a primary and secondary bevel.

I don't use the term "scandi" grind because that is just a nonsensical label which was popularized by people who have little to no understanding of blade geometry.

That type of grind is found everywhere on all manner of knives. It is often found on the cheapest blades because that is its only advantage.

The cool thing about Scandi grinds is that they are very easy to sharpen and maintain in the field.

If you are sharpening a single bevel grind you have to plane down the entire grind every time you sharpen. Why is sharpening a 1/2" bevel easier than a 1/16" bevel found on dual bevel blades? You have to do more work, not less.

If you can not hold an angle on a stone (which also makes no sense considering what the knife is used for), then simply put the stone at the angle and hone flat - no angle holding required. You can either put the stone vertical (Sharpmaker style) or horizontal.

(*) These knives are often promoted for wood work, especially some kind of crafting work. In order to use knives for such work takes a fair amount of skill and knowledge. If you are building traps you have to know where to place them, how they are maintained/checked, what to use where etc. . For shelters you have to know what is critical in various environments, materials to use, efficiency in construction, and the list goes on.

Compared to the skill/experience in even a minor part of that - sharpening a knife by holding an angle is inconsequential.

One of the frankest commentaries on single bevel grinds was by the maker of the original WoodLore : http://www.alanwoodknives.com/the-woodl ... story.html

"He still wanted the short bevel grind and explained that most people who attended his courses weren’t necessarily “knife people” and that it would be easier for them to sharpen if they could lay the whole bevel on the hone. Also, he needed the wedge-like edge that it produced for specific bushcraft tasks and controlled woodworking cuts."

These are constraints for *novices* who have little to no knowledge of wood working or knives and never intend to have them. That is the reality of that type of grind, it is like getting a knife with training wheels on it which you never intend to remove.

The argument about control in cuts is one of the silliest claims I have ever seen and again is only true for novices. Ask anyone with even a modern amount of wood working experience if they need very thick bevels to prevent over cuts - they don't, you prevent over cuts by adjusting the angle of the blade. However if you are a novice you don't know this and thus a full flat grind with an optimal wood working profile can cut too deep if you put too much force. Hence you learn to apply only the necessary force and adjust the angle of the cut.

Promoting single bevel grinds is no different than promoting bikes with training wheels. Yes, they may be necessary for some people in some cases, however it isn't really a strong argument to claim training wheels are necessary, that they are optimal, or that they have any other advantage other than the fact that if you don't have the skill or experience they can keep you off of the sidewalk.

[ABX2011]

The photo of the reground Endura looks perfect to me. It's got a small secondary bevel.

[thehunt]

In deed, it has a smal secondary bevel, firt it was ground to zero, but with some use (and freshen up the sharpnes via ceramic rod) the SB developed, with no negative reluts in its cutting ability.

[Holland]

Looks awesome thehunt