Domino vs. Southard

gull wing · #61

I trust the lockup on the Southard. The Ti contact area on the lock lug looks "treated" to me. Mine slices pretty good for a 5/32" thick blade. It also meets my personal requirement of any knife I carry, slices apples well.
To top it off, the 204P is long lasting at the edge, gets crazy sharp, and is pretty easy to sharpen. Love this steel :D .

wrdwrght · #62

I can't vote because I have only the Southard and haven't handled a Domino. I got the Southard to satisfy my curiosity about Brad Southard's invention in a Spyderco package. I still prefer the thumbhole to the flipper and will probably refrain from buying Spydies of the flipper variety, even though good-looking.

senorsquare · #63

The lockup on my Southard is about 35-40% and solid in all directions with no up, down or side to side play at all.

eric m. · #64

Evil D wrote:How is lock engagement and play on everyone's Southard? I really wish it has the steel lock insert. I'm really drawn to all that edge inside such a compact handle. I'm just about sold on it. If the grind turns out to be a poor slicer, it can always get reground.

Since mine is new I still have a rock solid lockup, with about a 40% engagement! There must be a wear issue with the titanium framelock though! My Ti Military has a steel lockbar insert, as the Domino! Don't know about this, or the special heat treatment of the Southard's Ti in this area though!?

Evil D · #65

eric m. wrote:Since mine is new I still have a rock solid lockup, with about a 40% engagement! There must be a wear issue with the titanium framelock though! My Ti Military has a steel lockbar insert, as the Domino! Don't know about this, or the special heat treatment of the Southard's Ti in this area though!?

My guess is that the lock bar insert is cheaper than the heat treat and/or something about the Southard prevented the insert from being used. Could also be that the insert is used as a lock tab over travel stop, and the Southard has that G10 tab back there for that purpose.

JNewell · #66

As far as the steel insert on the Military goes, I think the other thing going on is that the shape and finish of the locking surface on the tang is an important factor in how the lockbar wears. The typical Military lockup is not a good design for titanium, and you may remember that there were reports of accelerated lockbar wear with the early Ti Militarys. The Striders have had modifications over time for the same issue, but instead of changing the lockbar interface to steel, they changed the grind on the tang. Based on the total lack of wear on my Southard, I would guess that the lockbar doesn't wear the titanium lockbar face much.

Sonny · #67

gbelleh wrote:If I could get my Southard to cut, it would be a much closer contest.

Somehow, this one sentence speaks VOLUMES. I had two Southards; sold them. Now I have two Dominos. Will see.

Syncharmony · #68

Just went and cut up an apple with my Southard for the first time. I dunno guys, it was pretty easy. At no point did I have to baton my way through the apple. It sliced and diced and no drama was to be had. Maybe I need a bigger apple to experience the cutting problem?

mattman · #69

mattman wrote:Mine the same as JNewells.

Brad said in an earlier thread that the lockface was treated/hardened...

found it... post #11.

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... post818220

Popsickle · #70

the thing that gets me about the domino is the sharp edges on the spydiehole...... other than that its a great knife but I sold it because of this

chuck_roxas45 · #71

Popsickle wrote:the thing that gets me about the domino is the sharp edges on the spydiehole...... other than that its a great knife but I sold it because of this

You didn't do the sharpmaker rod thing on the hole corners Josh?

mattman · #72

Popsickle wrote:the thing that gets me about the domino is the sharp edges on the spydiehole...... other than that its a great knife but I sold it because of this

I appreciate the "crispness", and the effort/skill that goes into preserving it (it's easy to cover mistakes, or sloppiness with a little buffing/sanding...)

as has been said before, it's much easier to knock it down to your preference, than bring it back...

I don't really get why some think that this is a sign of a lack of quality? and continue to profess it as such??

Evil D · #73

Popsickle wrote:the thing that gets me about the domino is the sharp edges on the spydiehole...... other than that its a great knife but I sold it because of this

That was a very easy thing to fix to your liking. If you otherwise liked the rest of the knife, this is probably the very last thing that should make you sell it. Just sayin.

JNewell · #74

mattman wrote:I appreciate the "crispness", and the effort/skill that goes into preserving it (it's easy to cover mistakes, or sloppiness with a little buffing/sanding...)

as has been said before, it's much easier to knock it down to your preference, than bring it back...

I don't really get why some think that this is a sign of a lack of quality? and continue to profess it as such??

Yes - and in addition, it can make it easier to open the blade. :spyder:

chipdouglas · #75

Any concerns regarding the lack of a steel insert on the Southard ? I really like the knife, but I usually steer clear of any frame lock knife (at least those without any steel insert). My concerns have to do with the lock bar face wearing down too fast and then causing lock rock. Let me know what you guys think about this potential issue.

Evil D · #76

chipdouglas wrote:Any concerns regarding the lack of a steel insert on the Southard ? I really like the knife, but I usually steer clear of any frame lock knife (at least those without any steel insert). My concerns have to do with the lock bar face wearing down too fast and then causing lock rock. Let me know what you guys think about this potential issue.

Word is that the Ti is heat treated for hardness at the lock face so wear isn't an issue. Most will say that CRK and Strider don't use the steel insert and have no problem with lock wear.

My only add on is that at least there is more metal to metal contact, which should at least slow the rate of wear.

chipdouglas · #77

Evil D wrote:Word is that the Ti is heat treated for hardness at the lock face so wear isn't an issue. Most will say that CRK and Strider don't use the steel insert and have no problem with lock wear.

My only add on is that at least there is more metal to metal contact, which should at least slow the rate of wear.

I haven't heard of any significant lock rock issue on CRKs and from what I've read it is very rare for CRKs to have this problem, but I did see some on Striders. I know that Mr. Reeve is said to carburize the lock face and indeed, this seems to work like a charm.

Evil D · #78

chipdouglas wrote:I haven't heard of any significant lock rock issue on CRKs and from what I've read it is very rare for CRKs to have this problem, but I did see some on Striders. I know that Mr. Reeve is said to carburize the lock face and indeed, this seems to work like a charm.

Well the Southard is over a year old now. I would think there has to be a few out there in forum land that have seen a solid year of use and abuse, and so far I haven't heard anything bad about worn locks.

chipdouglas · #79

Evil D wrote:Well the Southard is over a year old now. I would think there has to be a few out there in forum land that have seen a solid year of use and abuse, and so far I haven't heard anything bad about worn locks.

That's good news - I may spring for one.

JNewell · #80

chipdouglas wrote:Any concerns regarding the lack of a steel insert on the Southard ? I really like the knife, but I usually steer clear of any frame lock knife (at least those without any steel insert). My concerns have to do with the lock bar face wearing down too fast and then causing lock rock. Let me know what you guys think about this potential issue.

None at all.