Domino vs. Southard
I thought the Southard was going to be the "cats meow" of Spyderco's. Both the Southard and Domino are great knives. Out-of-the-box, I prefer the Domino. For me it opens easier with the flipper, and it feels better in hand than the Southard. Also like jimping, and the cf better on the Domino.
That said, I do like the blade shape of the Southard better, and it's design carries better in the pocket. IMO the clip on the Southard needs slightly modified or replaced. A bit of rounding where the clip is close to the edge of the scale improves the knife. Not sure if this was done on the newer versions? I plan to get a cf scale for my Southard, as I prefer this over the G-10. Get both, you won't be disappointed.
That said, I do like the blade shape of the Southard better, and it's design carries better in the pocket. IMO the clip on the Southard needs slightly modified or replaced. A bit of rounding where the clip is close to the edge of the scale improves the knife. Not sure if this was done on the newer versions? I plan to get a cf scale for my Southard, as I prefer this over the G-10. Get both, you won't be disappointed.
havent read the whole thread yet, so apologies if this has already been covered. But there is a much higher chance of the domino having a sprint run than the southard. just imagine the possibilities! orange g10 with 20cp *drool*
-Spencer
Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
Figured I would add that the Sage 2 has been out even longer than the Southard and I haven't heard of any lock issues with that knife either. I like to think they did their homework on the Ti frame lock issue. Someone else mentioned that the reason the Military originally got the steel insert is that maybe the design of the tang just doesn't seat well with the Ti liner and that's why it was needed. With the Domino it also doubles as an over travel stop which to me is much cleaner solution than the G10 tab used on the Southard, plus it means the Ti didn't need to be heat treated which might be more costly than adding the insert, or at least with the insert also acting as the over travel it made sense to go that route. My take on the insert is that you have a lock that is completely rebuildable no matter how much wear happens at the tang, since all you would need is to match the lock tab to the tang. That means a Domino could actually be used to the point that the blade is group down to nothing and the lock could still function as new. It's hard to say if the Ti locks will have the same lifespan. Personally I'm more likely to sharpen away the blade before I wear out the lock.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
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senorsquare
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I think the lock rock issue with Striders had more to do with the lock face geometry than with the lock face getting soft. Strider redesigned their lock face for this reason and anytime you see someone selling a Strider people want to know if it has the new lockup.chipdouglas wrote:I haven't heard of any significant lock rock issue on CRKs and from what I've read it is very rare for CRKs to have this problem, but I did see some on Striders...
If you tried to do something crazy like baton hardwood then you might develop some lock rock, otherwise you should be OK.
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senorsquare
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A deep carry clip really transforms this knife and makes it one of the best carrying spydies out there IMHO. The slim profile nestles into the corner of your pocket quite nicely.Tdog wrote:...That said, I do like the blade shape of the Southard better, and it's design carries better in the pocket. IMO the clip on the Southard needs slightly modified or replaced...
I couldn't use STR's Southard clip because it mounts using the body screw and mine stripped and I was not able to remove it. Instead I used one of his standard clips with one screw and some super-glue to hold it in place. It's kind of a hack-job fix, but the knife carries so much better and to me feels nicer in the hand.
Untitled by senorsquare, on Flickr
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senorsquare
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That one body screw next to the lanyard hole wouldn't budge and I stripped the screw head trying to loosen it. I was able to loosen the other 5 just fine, but they must've used some super loctite on that one because that sucker ain't going nowhere.Evil D wrote:Stripping those Ti liner screws does concern me.
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chipdouglas
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Syncharmony
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That sucks, mine unscrewed and went back in nice and tight with no problems. I tested it out before ordering the STR clip as per his instructions to determine which Southard model you have.senorsquare wrote:That one body screw next to the lanyard hole wouldn't budge and I stripped the screw head trying to loosen it. I was able to loosen the other 5 just fine, but they must've used some super loctite on that one because that sucker ain't going nowhere.
Current EDC rotation: Southard, Paramilitary 2, Sage 1, G10 DF2, Techno
On deck: Military, Caly 3.5, Air
Wish List: M4 Military, S90V PM2, Superblue Caly 3.5, G-10 Jester
On deck: Military, Caly 3.5, Air
Wish List: M4 Military, S90V PM2, Superblue Caly 3.5, G-10 Jester
Oh you stripped the screw head, I thought you meant the threads in the Ti liner. Spyderco can probably get that screw out for a few bucks.senorsquare wrote:That one body screw next to the lanyard hole wouldn't budge and I stripped the screw head trying to loosen it. I was able to loosen the other 5 just fine, but they must've used some super loctite on that one because that sucker ain't going nowhere.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Just wanted to say 204p takes a pretty aggressive edge, reprofiled mine today by hand on the congress mold masters up to 400 grit, cuts relatively well.
Photo credit goes to potato cell phone...
Photo credit goes to potato cell phone...
M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.
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senorsquare
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chipdouglas
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Thanks to everyone who helped me struggle through a decision on this poll. I got with my local knife shop guy and had him order a Southard and Domino for me to check out in person. I spent an entire hour in the shop, flipping them open, playing with the locks, feeling them in my pocket, drawing them, over and over, sweating every detail of both knives. In the end, some of the things that swayed my decision:
Domino:
Pros - Better grind for slicing, felt better in my hand, lighter, seemed to flip easier/faster (likely due to the lighter blade), thinner profile carries flatter in pocket, thumb hole is still very usable, reminds me of a Manix 2
Cons - Wider in pocket, lock access (for my fat thumbs) was not as easy or comfortable (wore a raw spot in my thumb), check carbon fiber is a bit flashier than I like for EDC, thinner profile makes for a less hand filling grip vs. Southard, did not like the blade shape as much as the Southard (or Manix 2 for that matter), reminds me of a Manix 2
You'll notice I list "reminds me of a Manix 2" as a pro and a con, because for me it is. On one hand, I love my M2, and so reminding me of it can't be all bad. On the other hand, I own 2 M2's, and I really like to buy knives that are different than what I have. New purchases need to have something unique about them compared to the rest of my collection.
Southard:
Pros - Better grip/design for Filipino grip, which has grown to be my preferred grip method (thanks to the Yo2), thicker and more robust feeling, wider profile provides a more hand filling grip, only about 1/4 inch less blade than a Military in a much smaller, easier to carry package, easier/more comfortable lock access for larger fingers, carries extremely well in pocket, stout tip, better steel (IMO), LOVE the course G10 texture
Cons - Does not flip as fast as the Domino (heavier blade), thicker profile carries fatter in pocket, thicker blade grind does not slice as well as Domino, my OCD really has a problem with the asymmetric scale thicknesses (a future mod will surely "fix" this), not crazy about brown scales (wish they were more of a khaki color), though I don't mind the shape and style of the clip, it is quite pointy and has scratched my hand several times in just one day of carry (bring on the STR clip), love the course G10 for grip but is kind of hard on the outside of your hand when reaching into your pocket, thumb hole is essentially a trademark add on and is nearly useless for my big thumbs (not to mention the strength of the detent).
There are likely more pros and cons for both knives. In the end, I went with the Southard for 3 things about this knife that stood out in my mind as being things that I want and need more than same areas on the Domino. Those things are:
1. Blade to handle ratio. I'm guilty of obsessing over this, and will admit that the closer you get a knife to 50/50, the more likely I'll be to love the knife, provided that there is sufficient handle length. I really appreciate a design that squeezes as much blade into the handle as possible, and you won't get much more in the Southard, if any. It has really brought me back to the days before I became obsessed with choils, and given me new appreciation for knives that don't use a choil. That said, I do wish the grip area could be a bit closer to the heel of the edge.
2. Easier lock access. This is something that could easily be modded on the Domino to suit my needs, but it was something that really stood out while fondling both knives. I wouldn't say the Domino has poor lock access (far better than the Gayle Bradley) but the jimping and tight access did do a number on my thumb. By comparison, the round cutout on the Southard creates a perfect spot for my thumb to press into, and the lack of jimping makes for a softer touch on the thumb.
3. The Domino is just too much like the Manix 2, while the Southard is very different than every other knife I own. Like I mentioned earlier, I love my Manix 2's, and at some point this may also be the driving reason that I buy a Domino (honestly it will probably be the first exciting sprint steel that it gets that will push me over the edge), but in the end this was the biggest reason I went with the Southard. I like to keep my coral of knives down to the essentials, and I avoid redundancy because for me that leads to knives that sit in their box and never get used. The Southard is different enough that it brings more to the table for me than the Domiino. This combined with all that edge length and an easier to access lock tab were enough to push it just barely out in the lead to take the win.
My first two goals will likely be a thinner custom G10 scale to match the thickness of the Ti side (though I am toying with the idea of just sanding down the bottom side of the stock scale to even out the thickness), and secondly I'd like to look into a STR Ti clip. I really don't mind the look or style of the stock clip, it actually clips very strong which I think is important when you have a smooth scale on the clip side, but with this knife having so much Ti, it only makes sense to me to add a Ti clip, and I'm anxious to see how it carries with a deep carry clip, considering how well this knife carries with the stock clip. The brown is actually growing on me, I like how it contrasts with the color of the G10. I do wish it was a more khaki color like the dye job I did on my M4 Manix 2, but I already have so many black knives, I think I'll leave the brown alone. If/when I get a custom scale, it'll probably be either natural or olive colored rough micrata. Of course, the first thing I did was reprofile the edge, which took quite a bit of work and time (very surprised as this is my first experience with 204P). I do believe this steel took a bit more work than even my 20CP to reprofile. I haven't cut anything but hair and phone book paper, but man the edge is aggressive as **** with a 600 grit finish.
Anyway, y'all have probably scrolled on to look at the pics already so here ya go. Such a high tech knife needed a high tech backdrop, so my keyboard did the trick. The keyboard is a Corsair Vengeance K70 for those who may be interested (super BA gaming keyboard).
Domino:
Pros - Better grind for slicing, felt better in my hand, lighter, seemed to flip easier/faster (likely due to the lighter blade), thinner profile carries flatter in pocket, thumb hole is still very usable, reminds me of a Manix 2
Cons - Wider in pocket, lock access (for my fat thumbs) was not as easy or comfortable (wore a raw spot in my thumb), check carbon fiber is a bit flashier than I like for EDC, thinner profile makes for a less hand filling grip vs. Southard, did not like the blade shape as much as the Southard (or Manix 2 for that matter), reminds me of a Manix 2
You'll notice I list "reminds me of a Manix 2" as a pro and a con, because for me it is. On one hand, I love my M2, and so reminding me of it can't be all bad. On the other hand, I own 2 M2's, and I really like to buy knives that are different than what I have. New purchases need to have something unique about them compared to the rest of my collection.
Southard:
Pros - Better grip/design for Filipino grip, which has grown to be my preferred grip method (thanks to the Yo2), thicker and more robust feeling, wider profile provides a more hand filling grip, only about 1/4 inch less blade than a Military in a much smaller, easier to carry package, easier/more comfortable lock access for larger fingers, carries extremely well in pocket, stout tip, better steel (IMO), LOVE the course G10 texture
Cons - Does not flip as fast as the Domino (heavier blade), thicker profile carries fatter in pocket, thicker blade grind does not slice as well as Domino, my OCD really has a problem with the asymmetric scale thicknesses (a future mod will surely "fix" this), not crazy about brown scales (wish they were more of a khaki color), though I don't mind the shape and style of the clip, it is quite pointy and has scratched my hand several times in just one day of carry (bring on the STR clip), love the course G10 for grip but is kind of hard on the outside of your hand when reaching into your pocket, thumb hole is essentially a trademark add on and is nearly useless for my big thumbs (not to mention the strength of the detent).
There are likely more pros and cons for both knives. In the end, I went with the Southard for 3 things about this knife that stood out in my mind as being things that I want and need more than same areas on the Domino. Those things are:
1. Blade to handle ratio. I'm guilty of obsessing over this, and will admit that the closer you get a knife to 50/50, the more likely I'll be to love the knife, provided that there is sufficient handle length. I really appreciate a design that squeezes as much blade into the handle as possible, and you won't get much more in the Southard, if any. It has really brought me back to the days before I became obsessed with choils, and given me new appreciation for knives that don't use a choil. That said, I do wish the grip area could be a bit closer to the heel of the edge.
2. Easier lock access. This is something that could easily be modded on the Domino to suit my needs, but it was something that really stood out while fondling both knives. I wouldn't say the Domino has poor lock access (far better than the Gayle Bradley) but the jimping and tight access did do a number on my thumb. By comparison, the round cutout on the Southard creates a perfect spot for my thumb to press into, and the lack of jimping makes for a softer touch on the thumb.
3. The Domino is just too much like the Manix 2, while the Southard is very different than every other knife I own. Like I mentioned earlier, I love my Manix 2's, and at some point this may also be the driving reason that I buy a Domino (honestly it will probably be the first exciting sprint steel that it gets that will push me over the edge), but in the end this was the biggest reason I went with the Southard. I like to keep my coral of knives down to the essentials, and I avoid redundancy because for me that leads to knives that sit in their box and never get used. The Southard is different enough that it brings more to the table for me than the Domiino. This combined with all that edge length and an easier to access lock tab were enough to push it just barely out in the lead to take the win.
My first two goals will likely be a thinner custom G10 scale to match the thickness of the Ti side (though I am toying with the idea of just sanding down the bottom side of the stock scale to even out the thickness), and secondly I'd like to look into a STR Ti clip. I really don't mind the look or style of the stock clip, it actually clips very strong which I think is important when you have a smooth scale on the clip side, but with this knife having so much Ti, it only makes sense to me to add a Ti clip, and I'm anxious to see how it carries with a deep carry clip, considering how well this knife carries with the stock clip. The brown is actually growing on me, I like how it contrasts with the color of the G10. I do wish it was a more khaki color like the dye job I did on my M4 Manix 2, but I already have so many black knives, I think I'll leave the brown alone. If/when I get a custom scale, it'll probably be either natural or olive colored rough micrata. Of course, the first thing I did was reprofile the edge, which took quite a bit of work and time (very surprised as this is my first experience with 204P). I do believe this steel took a bit more work than even my 20CP to reprofile. I haven't cut anything but hair and phone book paper, but man the edge is aggressive as **** with a 600 grit finish.
Anyway, y'all have probably scrolled on to look at the pics already so here ya go. Such a high tech knife needed a high tech backdrop, so my keyboard did the trick. The keyboard is a Corsair Vengeance K70 for those who may be interested (super BA gaming keyboard).
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
I used the sharp maker stones to round the two offending points on the clip ever so slightly. It didn't take very long and the style of the clip is maintained. If the clip is tight when putting the knife in your pocket, try clipping it onto a small pad of paper about ⅛" thick and leave it overnight. That will stretch it ever so slightly and make it easier to clip and remove from your pockets. The smoothing of the end helps also.
When rounding the points, remember to not just hit the tip but also the radius. I found that it was the sharp edge on the radius that was catching my pants pockets and not the tip itself.
When rounding the points, remember to not just hit the tip but also the radius. I found that it was the sharp edge on the radius that was catching my pants pockets and not the tip itself.