What oil do you use?

Syncharmony · #41

Henry - get both wrote:Forehead oil is awesome for getting tape residue off. Just swipe your fingers across your forehead then rub the residue off with those fingers.

Hmm, that's a good idea. I've used peanut butter before to get really stubborn stickers or residue off. It's deliciously effective!

Foghorne · #42

I was using Ballistol and was spraying some of pivots once a month. Ordered some nano-oil that came in last Friday. Been thumb flicking my Dragonfly all weekend, something I didn't do much before due to stiffness. Sage 1 seemed to flick much better after sitting overnight. I like it and will buy another tube after my nephew talks me out of this one.

Haven't tried other oils so I can't say if nano-oil is better, but I'm very happy with the results.

Evil D · #43

I was just daydreaming about things you could use as lube that are food safe.... I bet non stick cooking spray would work crazy good. I wonder if that stuff spoils over time? I think I'm going to try it. A can of Pam will probably last forever too.

jalcon · #44

Evil D wrote:I was just daydreaming about things you could use as lube that are food safe.... I bet non stick cooking spray would work crazy good. I wonder if that stuff spoils over time? I think I'm going to try it. A can of Pam will probably last forever too.

Evil D · #45

jalcon wrote:

Mmmmm......lube..... :drool:

IG-88 · #46

Nano Oil works really well for me. I use it on everything around the house and the lub lasts a long time.

Fred Sanford · #47

Either mineral oil or 3-in-One oil. I sometimes use Tuf-Glide on the blade of stuff like D2 or M4.

ChapmanPreferred · #48

Miltec for pivots and mineral oil for blade protection that will see kitchen duty.

Rwb1500 · #49

RanCoWeAla wrote:I don't use very much oil but when I do I use plain old 3 in 1 oil. I had to learn the hard way that oil is the very worst thing you can possibly do for classic slip joints with Brass liners and natural handle materials. Oil attracts moisture thus the spots of rust that start to form on the top and bottom of the Brass liners. Also it will discolor Bone and Stag. I realize you don't have those things to worry about with Spyderco's but thought I might help someone prevent a huge disappointment someday. Use nothing but Renwax on the classics.

Pretty sure the opposite is true.

Liquid Cobra · #50

Apologies in advance for the silly question. I have a new Millie cru-wear that will be sitting in its box for the next month until Xmas :)
Do I need to protect the blade while it is being stored? The only thing I have in the house right now is 3 in 1 silicone spray. Is that ok at least for the month? The blade no longer has the factory lube that was on the blade, but there should still be some in the pivot. Help as usual is appreciated.

Thanks.

The Mastiff · #51

Cobra, it should work fine if you make sure you have got any and all salts and acids off that might have got on the blade. Fingerprints or skin ( palm) smears can put salt on your blade.

Always clean the blade before coating it if it's going into storage for more than a day or three.

BTW, even paste wax from your car works great for storing blades in most situations. I also use silicone and find it works fine.

Joe

Screwdriver · #52

I must be lucky, also where I live helps. I have many carbon knives and some hawks. L6, 1095/1084, 1080 etc and I have zero rusting issues as long as I wipe down after use. Even storage is not an issue. I have a hawk with an L6 bit sandwiched between 1018 that I keep in our earthquake kit. After a year sitting in the garage in a bin with only a simple oil wipedown, it is still rust free. I also have an extensive firearm collection and have never had an issue with rust.

_centurio_ · #53

I have tried a lot of oils, I do not care about food safety, because only the pivot and washers are lubed. My favorite oil at the time is Hoppes Elite Gun Oil, quite good stuff :)

Oliver

Liquid Cobra · #54

The Mastiff wrote:Cobra, it should work fine if you make sure you have got any and all salts and acids off that might have got on the blade. Fingerprints or skin ( palm) smears can put salt on your blade.

Always clean the blade before coating it if it's going into storage for more than a day or three.

BTW, even paste wax from your car works great for storing blades in most situations. I also use silicone and find it works fine.

Joe

Thanks for that. I washed it with water, gave it a good wipe down with a towel, applied the silicone and put it away. So I should be good.

Evil D · #55

So I did some research on what's in non stick cooking spray and it's basically just an emulsion of canola oil in water, so basically if it works as a lube it's the same as using canola oil, and I'd be concerned about deliberately spraying water into my pivot even if it has oil in it. Oh well.