How delicate is the Delica?
- demoncase
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A Delica is a great knife. It's also the most expensive and least effective prybar you're likely to have in your tool box
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Been EDCing this for a couple of days now and I'm starting to love it.
Its the sharpest knife I own hands down. I am babying it a little though - don't want it to end up in the same condition as my Urban...
I might just need a sabre ground one too though. Only thing stopping me is the VG10 steel.
How about some sabre grind harder steel sprints Sal?
Its the sharpest knife I own hands down. I am babying it a little though - don't want it to end up in the same condition as my Urban...
I might just need a sabre ground one too though. Only thing stopping me is the VG10 steel.
How about some sabre grind harder steel sprints Sal?
Urban Leaf, Superblue Delica 4, Leafstorm, Brown XHP Native, Brown Para 2
- chuck_roxas45
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- senorsquare
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Oh you know, it's like all VG-10 and stuff and VG-10 is stupid and I hate it because it's stupid VG-10!!! Gosh Chuck, you just don't get it! :p :Dchuck_roxas45 wrote:What's wrong with VG-10?
In all seriousness, I think we're just spoiled by all the great supersteels out there. VG-10 is a perfectly fine steel but it seems a little lackluster in comparison to steels like M4, M390, CTS-204P, CTS-XHP, S30V, S90V, S110V, S35VN, SuperBlue, ZDP-189 and so on and so forth...
- chuck_roxas45
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Ha ha...senorsquare wrote:Oh you know, it's like all VG-10 and stuff and VG-10 is stupid and I hate it because it's stupid VG-10!!! Gosh Chuck, you just don't get it! :p :D
In all seriousness, I think we're just spoiled by all the great supersteels out there. VG-10 is a perfectly fine steel but it seems a little lackluster in comparison to steels like M4, M390, CTS-204P, CTS-XHP, S30V, S90V, S110V, S35VN, SuperBlue, ZDP-189 and so on and so forth...
I haven't had great experience with VG10. My Urban lost the tip and took some chips while cutting nylon tags. I gave a new edge on the sharpmaker but its not as good as the factory ground edge. My Leafstorm and Native 5 however have required little more than a light strop. Basically, I find S30V to be harder than VG10 so that's what I want. I don't care about the cost too much.
Urban Leaf, Superblue Delica 4, Leafstorm, Brown XHP Native, Brown Para 2
- chuck_roxas45
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Its been said again and again, don't blame the steel for your lack of sharpening skill. If you lost the tip on your urban, you'd have lost it with any other steel.
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I thought about saying it, but Chuck has it handled.chuck_roxas45 wrote:Its been said again and again, don't blame the steel for your lack of sharpening skill. If you lost the tip on your urban, you'd have lost it with any other steel.
If you can't get back to factory sharp you need practice. That really is the only way to get good at it.
I struggled for a long time with mediocre results on the Sharpmaker and then one day I noticed things started getting better, and better, and better.
It takes time.
dbcad wrote:Change is the only constant...
...Quite enjoyable and satifsying to have the number of knives decrease but the sharpness of the edges increase. The eternal quest for least resistance;)
Enjoy your edges folks:)
Yea the difference between a broken tip and a non-broken one (of the same model type) comes down to various factors.
The user will vary quite a bit in technique/approach to each job. The sharpness will vary from knife to knife (sharp ones cut more than they strain). Plus there are particular difference per knife from grind to molecular inclusions that set miniature weakness points. While VG10 is a different beast than say 1075 or O-1, S30v and other high carbide stainless steels should hold up *relatively* similar. It's certainly more difficult to gauge than say edge retention which is a ball of wax itself. :rolleyes:
Of course there are other variables which I'm sure Sal, Cliff, Roman, Ed, Phil, Ankerson, etc can outline. I recall getting a B- in chemistry and dropped-out of physics. :p
The user will vary quite a bit in technique/approach to each job. The sharpness will vary from knife to knife (sharp ones cut more than they strain). Plus there are particular difference per knife from grind to molecular inclusions that set miniature weakness points. While VG10 is a different beast than say 1075 or O-1, S30v and other high carbide stainless steels should hold up *relatively* similar. It's certainly more difficult to gauge than say edge retention which is a ball of wax itself. :rolleyes:
Of course there are other variables which I'm sure Sal, Cliff, Roman, Ed, Phil, Ankerson, etc can outline. I recall getting a B- in chemistry and dropped-out of physics. :p
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it isvery much tough enough to be your main work horse for very demanding cutting jobs.
the funny thing about thick, overbuilt folders is that they are forcing themselves to need to be thick and overbuilt since it takes so much more effort to cut anything with those pry bars. a nice, razor sharp, thin blade is much more efficient.
the funny thing about thick, overbuilt folders is that they are forcing themselves to need to be thick and overbuilt since it takes so much more effort to cut anything with those pry bars. a nice, razor sharp, thin blade is much more efficient.
- Brock O Lee
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I have a confession to make. I did a very bad thing, and now my wallet will feel the pain: I pried with the tip of my FFG superblue Delica.
And guess what happened?
Nothing, not even a bent tip! :)
But just to be safe rather than sorry, I guess I'll just have to get that Tuff...
So what was this ill conceived hard-use prying job you ask? I pried +- 30 seeds from a slice of watermellon! :)
And guess what happened?
Nothing, not even a bent tip! :)
But just to be safe rather than sorry, I guess I'll just have to get that Tuff...
So what was this ill conceived hard-use prying job you ask? I pried +- 30 seeds from a slice of watermellon! :)
Hans
Favourite Spydies: Military, PM2, Shaman, UKPK
Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK L Sebenza 31, CRK L Inkosi
Favourite Spydies: Military, PM2, Shaman, UKPK
Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK L Sebenza 31, CRK L Inkosi