ok, I have lost the edge on my domino!

[pc87]

I lost the edge, I have a sharp maker and went up through the grits at the 40 degree setting, I cant get the edge back no matter what I do.

ANy help would be appreciated, I am an idiot I know.

[Bill1170]

Use a Sharpie to blacken the final bevel, then take the Domino to your Sharpmaker with brown rods. Give it a few strokes, then look to see if you are reaching the very edge. Once you determine that, come back here and post your findings so we can guide you further.

[Per-Sev]

Sorry once you dull the Domino you have to buy a new one and send your old one to me. Lol
Try marking the edge with a black marker to see where its removing metal from you might need to spend some time setting the angle or get the diamond rods to speed things up.

[pc87]

Ok, I did the sharpie and used the brown sticks. The brown rods are removing the sharpie at the apex, I then went to the fine stones, then the ultra fine, but the edge is just not like it was from the factory.

I guess I better order another one, LOL. I am frustrated. I have not had this happen in a long time. But I have never had xhp steel either.

THanks for the help guys.

[Per-Sev]

Have you formed a burr on either side yet?
Try this YouTube video.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-MHe_8wTHmg
After I watched this I bought the Sharpmaker.

[pc87]

Yea, I have a burr, and I have watched his vids, I will keep trying, this xhp seems to be more difficult to sharpen than s30v.

[Per-Sev]

Yea, I have a burr, and I have watched his vids, I will keep trying, this xhp seems to be more difficult to sharpen than s30v.

Good deal it sounds like you have it covered now, I have a Domino also and have not sharpened it yet so now I know what to expect. Just keep at it I think you just have not givin enough time yet.

[nccole]

What I like to do with new knives is use a guided rod setup where you clamp your knife. I use the 15 degree hole and go to town on the edge. This does a few things. It gets to new fresh steel which I believe from experience is less prone to chip/roll. I usually remove quite a bit of steel off the "shoulders" which in theory makes it cut with less resistance. Lastly, it ensures that my edge is 30 degrees inclusive so that I can put a microbevel at 40 from the Sharp Maker. I have not done this with my Domino yet, but I have sharpened it on the SM. It seemed like I had to work forever on the brown stones to actually apex. It may take longer than S30V (in my experience S30V is actually one of the harder steels to sharpen). Hope this helps, I would guess that you are really close, and when you think you got it spend another 15 minutes on the brown stones! Also when testing for sharpness if you shave hair, be sure to shave in both directions. This can tell you a lot about your edge as well.

[Donut]

I would say, try cutting some cardboard, then doing like 20 strokes per side on the ultra fines. It is usually a burr causing this.

In my experience, XHP is no more difficult to sharpen than S30V.

[pc87]

Thanks guys, this helps a lot, I will keep at it in the morning as my wife has just grounded me from the basement tonight. I will go back to the brown rods and start over and just take longer with each set. I am going to go with the DMT aligner kit after this escapade and hopefully that setup will work better.

This is some hard steel, my pm2 gets stupid sharp on the SM, but this domino is a whole new world for me.

I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow on the sharpening activities tomorrow.

[Per-Sev]

Thanks guys, this helps a lot, I will keep at it in the morning as my wife has just grounded me from the basement tonight. I will go back to the brown rods and start over and just take longer with each set. I am going to go with the DMT aligner kit after this escapade and hopefully that setup will work better.

This is some hard steel, my pm2 gets stupid sharp on the SM, but this domino is a whole new world for me.

I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow on the sharpening activities tomorrow.

One more thing make sure you stones are not loaded up from other knives I would suggest cleaning them first before you try again they might cut faster. Good luck

[jackknifeh]

Thanks guys, this helps a lot, I will keep at it in the morning as my wife has just grounded me from the basement tonight. I will go back to the brown rods and start over and just take longer with each set. I am going to go with the DMT aligner kit after this escapade and hopefully that setup will work better.

This is some hard steel, my pm2 gets stupid sharp on the SM, but this domino is a whole new world for me.

I'll keep you guys posted tomorrow on the sharpening activities tomorrow.

I used the aligner system for about a year and it does a really good job. Just so you know ahead of time you need to make sure the blade is clamped at a 90 degree angle with the clamp. I had a couple of knives that would "lean" one way when I tightened the clamp. I ended up with one angle on one side of the blade and a different angle on the other side. I didn't know this was happening until one day I noticed one bevel was much wider than the other one. The lower the angle the wider the bevel will be. Sometimes a piece of tape on the blade spine helps hold the blade correctly. Then again you may not have this issue at all. Most knives sit in the clamp just fine.

You will probably be able to get the edge re-profiled faster with the aligner because the diamond stones will cut faster than the medium sharpmaker stones. Once the edge is profiled like you want it the sharpmaker will be the perfect sharpener to keep it sharp. It's a little faster than using the aligner. Keep the sharpmaker set up so you can grab it and give the edge a quick touch up now and then. I'd bet the problem you are having will be remedied by re-profiling the edge. Then the Sharpmaker will hit the edge properly every time.

Jack

[zinczinc]

To be honest,

XHP is very difficult sharpening on SM. My techno got the same experience.

[DunninLA]

You mentioned that you're only removing the sharpie at the very tip of the edge. The Sharpmaker effectively has four available angles of degree when holding the knife perpendicular to the table top while sharpening against the stones:

40
36ish (rubber band at top of rods pulling them in)
30
26ish (same rubber band deal)

*editing to incorporate the idea from the post below*

You can either match the factory bevel, or create a microbevel.

If you want to match the factory bevel, and if none of those four exactly removes all the Sharpie, find the angle that is closest, and then slightly go off perpendicular to the table top free hand to compensate until you *are* exactly removing all the applied sharpie ink. At that moment you will have found the same angle at which the factory bevel was set at the factory. Every knife is different, even if the target is, say 36 or 33 or whatever the target angle is. Experiment a little. Reapply sharpie multiple times to make sure you're correct.

If you want to apply a micro bevel (which is what Chuck_roxas45 refers to), then yeah, removing just the last 10% or 20% or so of the sharpie will create a micro bevel... just try to be consistent as you create it.

[chuck_roxas45]

You mentioned that you're only removing the sharpie at the very edge. You need to find the angle on the Sharpmaker that removes all the sharpie. The Sharpmaker effectively has four available angles of degree when holding the knife perpendicular to the table top while sharpening against the stones:

If the OP is removing only the sharpie at the very edge then he is microbeveling. Microbeveling will in fact, make his knife sharper faster than removing sharpie(hence metal) from the whole bevel. That is actually the point of using the 40° setting on the sharpmaker.

[Cliff Stamp]

Thanks guys, this helps a lot, I will keep at it in the morning as my wife has just grounded me from the basement tonight. I will go back to the brown rods and start over and just take longer with each set.

It is pointless to go beyond the brown rods until it is clearly very sharp off of the brown rods. This is the simplest way :

a) grind the knife lightly right into the brown rod to produce a clear flat along the edge you can see as it reflects light

b) work the knife on the brown rods until the edge no longer reflects light

c) greatly increase the edge angle and greatly reduce the force and make three light passes alternating sides

The edge should be very sharp and can be worked on the finer stones. If the edge is not sharp then you have not finished (b) .

[Invective]

To be honest,

XHP is very difficult sharpening on SM. My techno got the same experience.

Really? I had no problem re-profiling or sharpening my Techno on the SM. Do you have the diamond rods? Those help immensely and I highly recommend getting them.

[zinczinc]

Yeah, I don't have the diamond rods, but the ultra-fine one.

Don't you feel it is trouble to sharpen techno due to its thick spine?

[Freman]

You lost your edge? That was careless. Where did you see it last?

I found with the Lansky Turnbox I could change the angle it cut at by turning the box relative to the angle of the blade.



45° is a 50% reduction of whichever angle the rods are set at, subdividing that 45° gives whatever angles you want.

I don't think that the Sharpmaker can be turned quite so far due to the triangular stones, but there should be some adjustment possible.

[nccole]

One more thing make sure you stones are not loaded up from other knives I would suggest cleaning them first before you try again they might cut faster. Good luck

Very true, and the brown ones don't show the steel loaded up like the fine stones, so clean them even if they don't look dirty.