Military Blanks... authentic or what
- xceptnl
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Military Blanks... authentic or what
Guys,
I have exchanged and email or two with the seller to try to get more information about these. They don't know the steel or if they have been treated. They only claim that they have owned them since 2009 and that the blade width at the tang is 0.15 inch. Let me know what you all think... Sal or Spydercrew, please feel free to chime in.
Pair of Military Blanks
P.S. I only ask because it has the older blocky jimping that I love. I guess the blackened tang is from the HT process and that the tang has not be set for the linerlock yet. These (if real) could be ATS-34 or S30V or even 440V if I know my spydie history.
I have exchanged and email or two with the seller to try to get more information about these. They don't know the steel or if they have been treated. They only claim that they have owned them since 2009 and that the blade width at the tang is 0.15 inch. Let me know what you all think... Sal or Spydercrew, please feel free to chime in.
Pair of Military Blanks
P.S. I only ask because it has the older blocky jimping that I love. I guess the blackened tang is from the HT process and that the tang has not be set for the linerlock yet. These (if real) could be ATS-34 or S30V or even 440V if I know my spydie history.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- The Deacon
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If by authentic you mean produced by Spyderco, then they are most likely authentic...
... and these are the two most likely scenarios.JNewell wrote:Stolen? Factory rejects picked from the dumpsters out back?
Paul
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My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
I would lean towards rejects, as they haven't been finished. They don't have choil jimping or any letting. They also haven't seen any final blade finish, as you can still see burn marks around the outline of the tang where they were cut out. Something caused them to be rejected before they were finished. I'd call them practically worthless.
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- The Deacon
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FWIW, the 2000 Spyderco Forum Military (and I'd assume all other Militarys of that era) has the same jimping on the thumb ramp and does not have choil jimping.Evil D wrote:I would lean towards rejects, as they haven't been finished. They don't have choil jimping or any letting. They also haven't seen any final blade finish, as you can still see burn marks around the outline of the tang where they were cut out. Something caused them to be rejected before they were finished. I'd call them practically worthless.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
- xceptnl
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What Paul said. I love this version without the jimping on the choil.The Deacon wrote:FWIW, the 2000 Spyderco Forum Military (and I'd assume all other Militarys of that era) has the same jimping on the thumb ramp and does not have choil jimping.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
- Minibear453
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Well.. it wouldn't be very difficult to make your own pair of g10 scales and a lock for the knife. I've made a few liner locks as a hobby, and although I usually grind down the tang, it'd be easy to cut the lock and then grind it so that it fits the blade's tang.... FWIW, I'd see quite a bit of value in taking one and making it into a full knife, although I get a sense this is taboo due to the shady history on those blades. As for hardness, I'd pin it to a random sheet of material first, sharpen, and see if it's usable.
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You're missing the point. Spyderco discarded the blade for a reason. Spyderco is a company that's tight with a dollar. Do you think there's any chance that blades they trashed are suitable for a decent knife? If these blades were suitable, they'd be in someone's pocket with a Spyderco logo on them. There's no way it's worth investing the time and labor to fit them into a one-off "custom" that you make yourself.Minibear453 wrote:Well.. it wouldn't be very difficult to make your own pair of g10 scales and a lock for the knife. I've made a few liner locks as a hobby, and although I usually grind down the tang, it'd be easy to cut the lock and then grind it so that it fits the blade's tang.... FWIW, I'd see quite a bit of value in taking one and making it into a full knife, although I get a sense this is taboo due to the shady history on those blades. As for hardness, I'd pin it to a random sheet of material first, sharpen, and see if it's usable.
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I could be way off as I have limited knowledge on the actual making of I know a bit but many here know a LOT more.
The white markings on the blade are in some steels iirc signs of the steel not being cleaned before HT and or in certain steel HT overheated ?.
Cod be wrong but if you know what your doing and have the ability to put them back through some process of ht and handle them .
Maybe welding a stick tang onto the the blades they would make some good show knives if nothing else .
Being a collector I'd pay a small price for these blanks just to have them but $ wise yeah probably not worth much .
And as said about being re used by Spyderco Idk Sal could answer that but maybe a worker thought ill have these , who knows .
The white markings on the blade are in some steels iirc signs of the steel not being cleaned before HT and or in certain steel HT overheated ?.
Cod be wrong but if you know what your doing and have the ability to put them back through some process of ht and handle them .
Maybe welding a stick tang onto the the blades they would make some good show knives if nothing else .
Being a collector I'd pay a small price for these blanks just to have them but $ wise yeah probably not worth much .
And as said about being re used by Spyderco Idk Sal could answer that but maybe a worker thought ill have these , who knows .
- Brock O Lee
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They might have been thrown out because they're defective, etc. but I don't think it was ever mentioned xceptnl was going to try and make knife out of them or do a blade swap. ****, I'd love them because I'm a Spyderco fan, or just for the novelty. Kind of like collecting the Spyderhole cutouts. If he's not asking much, I can't see the harm in buying them.
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Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
I have a Spyderco Military SE with a blade very similar to the one shown above. It has no markings and the area around the pivot screw is looks the same. I bought it used and it looked well used when I got it. I sharpened it up and it has been my go to yard knife for the past 2 years and has cut a lot of different materials without chipping. If these blanks are from the same source, they may not be rejects at all, or it could be that even Spyderco's rejects hold up better than most cheap knives on the market.
The important thing was that I had an onion tied to my belt, which was the style at the time. You couldn't get white onions, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big yellow ones...
- xceptnl
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This was my main reasoning in asking are they legit more so than are they useable. If they sell for under $50 it may be a nice piece of novelty kit. I can't state enough how much I love that jimping style enough. It just seems to work better for me.Clip wrote:...I don't think it was ever mentioned xceptnl was going to try and make knife out of them or do a blade swap. ****, I'd love them because I'm a Spyderco fan, or just for the novelty. Kind of like collecting the Spyderhole cutouts. If he's not asking much, I can't see the harm in buying them.
Also as onionman stated, they may very well hold up better than most of the market's cheap knives.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!