New Spyderco's & Blade bevels on Sharpmaker

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VeloWeave
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New Spyderco's & Blade bevels on Sharpmaker

#1

Post by VeloWeave »

I got a newer Chaparral and have been touching it up on the Sharpmaker. Anyone know which bevel degree I should be using? I'm not sure what degree Spyderco sets there edges at. I have been using 40 degree setting. Wondering if I should switch to 30 degrees. Anyone know?
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Clip
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#2

Post by Clip »

Use sharpie on the edge to see where you hit, I'd run a 30 degree primary and touch up on 40 like Spyderco recommends if you want to use the Sharpmaker. I've been freehanding on DMT plates so who knows what my angles are.
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Chris
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#3

Post by Donut »

The two Chaparral 1's that I've reprofiled the bevel to 30 degrees on have had the primary bevel quite a bit wider than 30 degrees.

I imagine you will only be able to hit the edge with the 40 degree setting and the 30 degree setting will only hit the shoulder. Once you need to even the bevel out, it will take some work with the diamond rods.
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VeloWeave
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#4

Post by VeloWeave »

Is the primary bevel the one at the apex of the edge and the secondary bevel is kind of like the shoulder? Is that correct? I've never been sure about that terminology.
Most Carried: Sebenza Insingo small, Chaparral, Modded Southard Flipper, Delica 4, Ritter Mini-Grip, Techno, Injection 3.0
Wishlist 2014: Sage 2, Mnandi, Krein Alpha,
Other's I own or have sold: Vallotton, Anso Zulu, Blur CF, Scallion, Leaf Storm, Sage 2, Caly 3 CF
Flashlight EDC: Preon 0, Peak Eiger AAA Oveready edition with QTC & momentary button Nichia 219 emitter, Beta-QR, Muyshondt Aeon
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#5

Post by Donut »

I call the primary bevel the one you see, the big one. Micro bevel would be the one at the apex.
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#6

Post by VeloWeave »

So if I'm understanding you Donut, for example a 40 degree would be at the apex and at 30 degree would be the big one, the one that's more visible?
Most Carried: Sebenza Insingo small, Chaparral, Modded Southard Flipper, Delica 4, Ritter Mini-Grip, Techno, Injection 3.0
Wishlist 2014: Sage 2, Mnandi, Krein Alpha,
Other's I own or have sold: Vallotton, Anso Zulu, Blur CF, Scallion, Leaf Storm, Sage 2, Caly 3 CF
Flashlight EDC: Preon 0, Peak Eiger AAA Oveready edition with QTC & momentary button Nichia 219 emitter, Beta-QR, Muyshondt Aeon
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#7

Post by Clip »

That's right. More often than not all you see is primary bevel, the secondary/micro becomes apparent after many touch-ups or prolonged use of the 40 degree setting.
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Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt

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#8

Post by Donut »

Yep, that's the understanding.

I have two Chaparral 1's, and both came with the "30 degree edge" somewhere between 30 and 40 degrees, and it seemed like it was half way between those two angles. Going to the 30 degree slots on the sharpmaker would only hit the shoulders.
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Jurphaas
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#9

Post by Jurphaas »

Spyderco factory bevels are set in between 18 -23 degrees. So Like the manual which comes with the Tri-Angle set suggests, use the 40 degree slots for general EDC utility knives. Now don't get confused as there will be a million advisors telling you go with everything in between Zero and Hundred degrees.... Everybody knows best... ;-)
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