Hey guys,
My spyderco tenacious in blue has been my #1 work horse for quite some time now and I have begun noticing that the lock up is getting later and later. First of all, how late is too late and when does it become dangerous to use? Also, is there a way to fix this? excuse my ignorance but does this indicate steel being worn away from the blade tang, or from the lock face, or both? In other words, if I bought a regular tenacious could I just swap the liner on the lock side and fix the problem or is the knife towards the end of its life? I suppose I could always swap the blade and the liner but I love the way this blade looks. It was the first blade I attempted an acid etch on and over time it has taken on a rather stone washed and "destroyed" look which I really like. Here are some pics for reference.
Have you taken it apart? The Warranty & Repairs department is the only place that can see if its Spyderco approved to factory specs. The liner lock position, IMO, is more a guideline than rule.
Blerv wrote:Have you taken it apart? The Warranty & Repairs department is the only place that can see if its Spyderco approved to factory specs. The liner lock position, IMO, is more a guideline than rule.
Yes, this knife has been disassembled more times than I can count which rules out spyderco warranty. The lock still seems secure and the lock bar does not "slip" easily to the unlock direction.
This is the knife in question next to a mostly unused black tenacious. You can see the difference in the lock bar position clearly in this photo. I guess I should point out as well that the blue one still has solid lock up with no blade play in any direction.
If the warranty has been void already but the lock is stable without movement, I say use it. In my opinion, we worry way too much about lock strength when really if we used these knives as if they were slipjoints, we would never know they were not. I realize the blasphemy of my last sentance, but it makes sense. If the blade has no play and the lock is stable with no flex, I would say the "lock" is doing it's job. I do think you can send it to Spyderco anyway with a $20 repair fee to have them examine it.
sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
I wouldn't worry about it given the lack of play. I also wouldn't guarantee it against failure and neither would Spyderco. Then again, I guess there aren't any real guarantees in life anyways :) .
The Tenacious line of knives are sturdy workhorses. For ultimate in lock security I would look to some of the more rugged models. As a light to medium task knife yours should be fine.
Blerv wrote:I wouldn't worry about it given the lack of play. I also wouldn't guarantee it against failure and neither would Spyderco. Then again, I guess there aren't any real guarantees in life anyways :) .
The Tenacious line of knives are sturdy workhorses. For ultimate in lock security I would look to some of the more rugged models. As a light to medium task knife yours should be fine.
Well all folding knives I think are light to medium task knives. If I got something heavy to do, I use a fixed blade. =o) Anyways, I appreciate the feedback and answers here. I think I am over-thinking this and should just continue to enjoy the knife for what it is. It is just one of many in my rotation anyways.
A well made liner lock will self-adjust without blade play or lock instability. If it seems solid, keep using it until the liner no longer solidly contacts the blade tang.
Since you already voided your warranty then if it bothers you try this. A knife maker friend of mine told me that sometimes a liner lock is cut a little short and you can stretch the metal buy using a center punch on the side that faces the scales at the top of the liner and just punch a spot close to the side and top but do it in steps to make sure you don't stretch it to much. So make sure its close to the top where all the pressure is applied when its tiring to be closed, if you do it in the middle you can get lock rock. I would try it about 1/8" from the lock face and 1/8" from the top opposite the ball detent on the other side. I have never tried this but he has done this before and if done right works great.
I want to add this should be last resort option and I can't say it will work or not so do it at your own risk.
As long as your lock is working with no play then don't worry about it but if it forms play then maybe try this at that point you have nothing to lose.
My Michael Walker liner lock looked like that when new. I have a couple of Queen liner locks, and they are designed to have the lock bar all the way across when new.
As long as it locks up tight, I wouldn't worry.
Nice catch..... didn't even think about bringing this up. If he didn't coat the face of the tang, and he etched long enough, it could have removed enough material to cause the extra lock advancement. The pivot hole is also an area to be concerned with when etching. :cool:
sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
xceptnl wrote:Nice catch..... didn't even think about bringing this up. If he didn't coat the face of the tang, and he etched long enough, it could have removed enough material to cause the extra lock advancement. The pivot hole is also an area to be concerned with when etching. :cool:
Nope that tang face, and pivot area, and the face that meets the stop pins were all covered in a really lovely color pink nail polish. I knew enough to do that! =o)
If it wore away so much that the lockbar contacted the other liner, the knife would still be locked. As long as there is no blade or lock play, keep givin' 'er!
DJFrostbyte wrote:Nope that tang face, and pivot area, and the face that meets the stop pins were all covered in a really lovely color pink nail polish. I knew enough to do that! =o)
I used a lively color as well when I did my etch.
sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
