What kind of oil do you use?

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Donut
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What kind of oil do you use?

Postby Donut » Mon Jul 29, 2013 11:40 am

For your pivots and what not?

I was watching an old video from youtube reviewer. He said he took a Paramilitary 1, removed the stock oil and used "High speed turbine oil", which he preferred.

It got me wondering, what kind of high performance oil should I be using?

I have a type of oil that I use based on comparing a few different types.

Give me some ideas and hopefully you have a reason why you're using it!
-Brian
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APS
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Postby APS » Mon Jul 29, 2013 11:43 am

I use miltec but don't usually go through the heating routine. After the excess is wiped off the remaining bit doesn't seem to attract as much lint/dust as 3in1 or remoil.
Adam

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senorsquare
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Postby senorsquare » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:01 pm

I've used bicycle dry lube only because it was in the shop at the time and it works well enough for me.

There was a pretty big thread recently that had a lengthy discussion on nano-oil and other lubricants - http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... t=nano+oil

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phillipsted
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Postby phillipsted » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:23 pm

I've tried dozens of different oils/lubes/friction-reducers over the years. I currently like Nano-Oil 10w for my EDC knives.

TedP

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Blerv
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Postby Blerv » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:31 pm

Mineral oil for cleaning, lube and light corrosion resistance. Tuf-Cloth for the superblue/M4 blades. I've tried a flashlight grease for the more rough pivots and it seems to dull the funky action.
:spyder: Blake :spyder:

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jackknifeh
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Postby jackknifeh » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:36 pm

I use Tuf-Glide/cloth for corrosion control because it "bonds" with the metal at a molecular level according to the advertising. Wipe off ALL excess and it leaves the metal dry and dust won't stick to it. There is still a protective barrier fighting corrosion. It also makes a fairly decent lubricant so it will cover both aspects of corrosion control and lubrication for a smoother movement.

For a lubricant however I use Nano-oil because it is MUCH better. The pivot gets smoother as soon as the oil is worked into the entire pivot. One huge claim about Nano-oil is that it performs better when the pressure between the metal parts is increased. I'm speaking of pressure you have in heavy machinery and such, not a pivot on a pocket knife. But the pressure in a pivot is importand for it to perform properly. I have experienced this and it is why I choose Nano-oil. On many knives there is a sweet spot where pivot tension is tight enough to eliminate blade play but still loose enough for the blade to move VERY easily. Since the Nano-oil performs better when the pressure is greater I can tighten the pivot tighter and still have a very smooth, very easy opening/closing knife. In some cases a knife with the pivot loose enough to make it easy to open also allows blade play. If you tighten the pivot screws to eliminate blade play the blade is very hard to open in some cases. So having an oil that allows the blade to open easily AND have no blade play because the screws can be tightened more is a great thing to me. That's why I use Nano-oil for the lubrication.

Another benefit of Nano-oil is it comes in 3 viscosities. 5, 10 and 85 weight. The 5w is very thin and soaks into corrosion on rusted bolts EXTREMELY fast. I have broken free rusted bolts in a matter of 10 seconds or so that wouldn't turn after soaking in other products for a couple of hours. The 10w is good for knives, pliers and other tools and such. The 85w is more like a grease in consistancy I think. It is very thick. I have never used the 85w. So you have 3 weights to choose from or you can mix them to create an oil of the thickness you prefer.


Jack

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jabba359
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Postby jabba359 » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:46 pm

Tuf-Glide/cloth for corrosion resistance on the liners and hard to reach places, and Nano Oil 5W for the pivot.
-Kyle

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mikerestivo
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Postby mikerestivo » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:52 pm

Blerv wrote:Mineral oil for cleaning, lube and light corrosion resistance. Tuf-Cloth for the superblue/M4 blades.
This

endgame
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Postby endgame » Mon Jul 29, 2013 12:56 pm

Nyoil 2 love it

Blackhawk30
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Postby Blackhawk30 » Mon Jul 29, 2013 2:49 pm

Break Free CLP.

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skatenut
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Postby skatenut » Mon Jul 29, 2013 3:19 pm

10 wt Nano-oil for knives and flashlight threads. It's excellent for the threads on titanium flashlights, which tend to gall badly.

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Jazz
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Postby Jazz » Mon Jul 29, 2013 3:39 pm

White Lightning dry wax lube. Cleans as you use the pivot.
- best wishes, Jazz.

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Knivesinedc
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Postby Knivesinedc » Mon Jul 29, 2013 4:10 pm

Pam Butter spray. works wonders, and doesnt leave your knife smelling like oil.
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razorsharp
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Postby razorsharp » Mon Jul 29, 2013 4:14 pm

Tuff glide on blades and Nano oil on pivots :)

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FCM415
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Postby FCM415 » Mon Jul 29, 2013 4:19 pm

Mineral oil on blades, Bluelube for pivots. Bluelube works well, I'd like to try Nano-Oil next.
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Postby RanCoWeAla » Mon Jul 29, 2013 4:31 pm

If I use any oil at all which I don't except on carry knives I just use plain old 3 in one oil. I have a fairly extensive collection of Case knives and I learned after fifty something years of experience that oil is the absolute worst thing you can do to this type of knife with the brass liners. If you put even one drop of oil on any of the classic slip joint knives with Bone, Stag or celluloid handles you are ruining the knife. I know all of you have seen slip joint knives that have small rusty spots along the liners about midway of the back and inside of the knife. This is caused by as little as one single drop of oil working its way along the backspring down the full length of the knife as open and close the blade. Oil will also soak into bone and stag discoloring it or turning that stag dark. I realize this conversation pertains more to Spyderco knives but some of you may have some bone or stag handled knives as well. The same way I care for my collectible Case knives carries over to my collectible Spyderco's as well. If it's going to reside in my safe it never sees a drop of oil only Ren wax on the Case's and nothing on the Spyderco's. Trust me oil is the absolute worst thing you can possibly do to knives in long term storage. Never oil any knife other than the one you carry and use every day.

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Buddha UK
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Postby Buddha UK » Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:04 pm

FrogLube all day long baby! Am a total convert, pricey but food safe, works great and c'mon... it's called FrogLube!
Worth the cost alone for the time a friend picked it up when it was left out and said "WTF have you got this for? You don't even have any frogs!" :-P

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KrisOK
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Postby KrisOK » Mon Jul 29, 2013 5:45 pm

I use Hoppe's No 9 precision lubricating oil
EDC Everything! Our knives are TOOLS, not 'Objects d'art'. A 'Safe Queen' is an implied insult to the designer/manufacturer.

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SQSAR
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Postby SQSAR » Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:13 pm

Nano-Oil. 10 wt on some, 5 wt on others. It isn't the end all be all of lubes, but it is pretty darn good stuff.

Bladekeeper
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Postby Bladekeeper » Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:21 pm

I use a Sentry oil pen applicator for pivots and hard to reach areas.
The needle like end fits directly into the holes , and the other areas .
Then I either use Sentry oil marine or the Marine cloth too , I have Ren wax but it doesn't repel water/moisture and I tend to use that for wooden scales plus leather .


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