How do you make a new handle for a FRN handle Dragonfly2?

jackknifeh · #1

I'm considering making a new handle for my D'fly. Since it seems to be two sides glued together where a back spacer normally is forming one piece I have a couple of options on how to accomplish it.

Option one:
Make two sides each half the thickness of the handle. Then rout out the area for the blade.

Option two:
Make two sides and also a backspacer to be sandwiched between the two sides. I think I like this idea better.

With either option I think I'd glue it all together prior t shaping the handle. Without being able to take the original handle apart I would need to cut the lockspring groove position by guessing. If I don't get the notch just like the one in the original handle it will probably effect the pressure on the lock bar. If that's the case I may want to use third party lockspring material and make a new one. I wouldn't want to try to bend the original spring. I may want to put it all back together in the original handle sometime.

Another thing to determine is how to get the pivot hole and lockbar pivot hole in exactly the right place. Since I can't take the original handle apart this will be new to me. The hole for the clip screw can be off a little but the other two will need to be as perfectly positioned as I can get them.

I'm hoping someone has already done this and has some tips they would share. When I have a mental plan on how to complete this project I'll start thinking about what material to use.

In case anyone is wondering why I have the desire to do this, it's just for fun.

Any help/advice is appreciated.

Jack

xceptnl · #2

That sounds like a great little project Jack. I would suggest the 3 piece option (seperate backspacer) or maybe a 2 piece similar to the build of a Strider. The backspacer built into one side of the handle and the other side of the handle is smooth. What materials were you looking to use? Wood or something synthetic?

Holland · #3

xceptnl wrote:That sounds like a great little project Jack. I would suggest the 3 piece option (seperate backspacer) or maybe a 2 piece similar to the build of a Strider. The backspacer built into one side of the handle and the other side of the handle is smooth. What materials were you looking to use? Wood or something synthetic?

I think thats a great idea!

jackknifeh · #4

xceptnl wrote:That sounds like a great little project Jack. I would suggest the 3 piece option (seperate backspacer) or maybe a 2 piece similar to the build of a Strider. The backspacer built into one side of the handle and the other side of the handle is smooth. What materials were you looking to use? Wood or something synthetic?

I had thought about a two piece design making one side with the backspacer and the other side flat. Depending on the material I use this sounds good or bad to me. If I use a material where a seam is going to be obvious (wood grain for example) I want it either in the middle of the handle or have two seams (seperate backspacer). One seam off-center may look a little off or something. I don't really know but this was my thinking. Maybe a different material all together for the backspacer? Wood grain on opposite sides, bookmatched if possible and a solid color backspacer? Limitless possibilities.

Haven't given the material a lot of thought yet. I have used dymondwood, G-10, micarta and kirinite. So, do I want a bright multi-colored handle? Wood grain? Solid or multi-color G-10? Or, do I want the strength of micarta? That stuff is the hardes to work with as far as cutting so I assume it adds strength to the handle and pivot. But, a D'fly normally isn't used for hard work, prying off hub caps, pulling nails, etc. :) If this works as well as I hope it will be a matter what do I use first? I don't know yet. Does anyone have suggestions on material I didn't mention?

xceptnl · #5

I can just imagine how good a dymondwood handled dragonfly could look. If you want the look of seamless, you could still do the off center seam and just cut the slabs from one block of wood. The grains should line up when you reassemble. If I was doing a project like yours (I wish I had the time and space for a project like this) I would do green canvas micarta with a red g-10 backspacer (3 piece handle).

Evil D · #6

I'm not sure how this will work. The handle is one piece molded and so it has less screws to hold it together. How will you hold the two halves together?

jackknifeh · #7

Evil D wrote:I'm not sure how this will work. The handle is one piece molded and so it has less screws to hold it together. How will you hold the two halves together?

I already thunk that through. If I use two sides and a backspacer I'll shape the inside of the backspacer and cut out for the lock spring then glue the two sides to it. I may just glue one side to one side of the backspacer so I can see how the lockspring sits and try to get the lock bar and blade pivot holes drilled. Then I can see how the lockup will work. I'll cut and bend the lockspring appropriately for the right amount of tension. The knife will work properly with the ousides still needing to be shaped. Once it is ok I'll glue the other side to the backspacer. Hopefully at that point the new handle will be the same as the original one. There won't be any texture or jimping on the handle though. The outside of the backspacer and sides (are they still called scales?) I'll shape together and other than any color or pattern difference they will be one piece. As you were probably thinking with just one screw for the clip the backspacer could spin. I did think about getting another pin and two screws but that's just complicating things. As it is I'm still thinking things through.

Jay_Ev · #8

Just a suggestion, perhaps get the Wooden Dragonfly Kit and use the parts as sort of a template. It seems to be 1:1 scale.

jackknifeh · #9

Jay_Ev wrote:Just a suggestion, perhaps get the Wooden Dragonfly Kit and use the parts as sort of a template. It seems to be 1:1 scale.

Not a bad idea. I know. I'll just use my blade and the wooded pieces and claim I carved them all. :D

xceptnl · #10

jackknifeh wrote:Not a bad idea. I know. I'll just use my blade and the wooded pieces and claim I carved them all. :D

There you go, now you should have it all worked out for us to see on Monday. Have a good weekend! :D

gull wing · #11

Jack, I've done this.......not on the new DFly, but the old one and on the old Native III (VG10). They worked out ok. Good luck with it.

I have pics if can find. :)

jackknifeh · #12

gull wing wrote:Jack, I've done this.......not on the new DFly, but the old one and on the old Native III (VG10). They worked out ok. Good luck with it.

I have pics if can find. :)

Did you glue the pieces together so the finished product was one piece like it is now or did you assemble the new handle using pins and screws? With my description of how I have thought of doing this, do you have any info you picked up during the process that isn't obvious during the planing phase? Pics would be nice but I don't want to put you out. Please don't spend more than 10 or 12 hours looking for them. :D

Jack

jackknifeh · #13

gull wing wrote:Jack, I've done this.......not on the new DFly, but the old one and on the old Native III (VG10). They worked out ok. Good luck with it.

I have pics if can find. :)

Did you glue the pieces together so the finished product was one piece like it is now or did you assemble the new handle using pins and screws? With my description of how I have thought of doing this, do you have any info you picked up during the process that isn't obvious during the planing phase? Pics would be nice but I don't want to put you out. Please don't spend more than 10 or 12 hours looking for them. :D

Jack

gull wing · #14

I may have made it harder than it could have. Your way may be better.

1. I used 1/8" barrel bolts as pins.
2. A seprate spring holder, which I tapped for screws.
3. Sawed the FRN down the center to expose the spring holder area.
(critical to get the angle right on the spring)

If I'm not too late I will find the pics.

jackknifeh · #15

gull wing wrote:I may have made it harder than it could have. Your way may be better.

1. I used 1/8" barrel bolts as pins.
2. A seprate spring holder, which I tapped for screws.
3. Sawed the FRN down the center to expose the spring holder area.
(critical to get the angle right on the spring)

If I'm not too late I will find the pics.

I won't be doing this for a week or two probably. I need to order the material. Don't know what I'm going to use yet or what extra stuff I may put on the order.

billy blade · #16

Sounds like a fun project. Keep us posted.

jackknifeh · #17

Does anyone know for sure if the Dragonfly2, FRN/VG-10 knife has washers inside the pivot? Between the FRN and blade tang. Not the washers sometimes under the pivot screw heads. The space between the FRN is .007" wider than the blade is thick. This probably means washers or the additional "space" is due to "molded into the FRN" washers. Did that make sense? Any help is appreciated.

Jack

xceptnl · #18

Jack I am 90% positive it is molded into the FRN on each side.

jackknifeh · #19

xceptnl wrote:Jack I am 90% positive it is molded into the FRN on each side.

Thanks. I'll need to get some if I don't have existing ones to go into my handle. I think this project will test skills that I haven't needed or will need to be more accurate. So, the first attempt will be learn by error. Actually, I'll probably learn the same way on the second and third attempts. :) That's ok.

jackknifeh · #20

Anyone know the differenced in bronze and teflon washers? Is one smoother? Life expectancy? All info is needed and appreciated. The only difference I know of between the two types is how to spell them. :confused: :)