Yes.Minibear453 wrote:Well, through novice sharpening and use, I've managed to change the shape of my endura slightly. But if you do oversharpen a knife, it's possible to either file the portion where the tang meets the stop pin, so the knife can sit further down. However, that's not always possible, because if you do that too much, the blade with run into the handle. A possibly safer and easier fix would be to grind the spine of the knife down, and effectively shorten the knife a little, but lower the point so the blade remains within the handle.
We can all agree that tools have lifespans. But how have you missed the fact that what I'm saying is that there is a shorter lifespan built into this knife needlessly merely because the blade tip doesn't extend about another 1/16 or 1/8 of an inch? This is not an issue of, "Well, what can ya do? Tools wear out," and an unavoidable circumstances.Fancier wrote:I just pulled apart my Manix 2 and inspected the clearance on the spot on the tang that folks are calling the kicker. It does not contact the back spacer when the knife is fully closed. The slide for the lock is sandwiched between the tang and the back spacer when the knife is closed. The extent of closure cannot be changed without disassembling the knife.
Edit: I'll side with the majority and agree that a knife is a tool that wears out with use. How long a tool lasts depends on how it is used, and some do last longer than others.
That sounds like a viable solution, and I hadn't thought of it. Thanks.Joshua J. wrote:Yes.
The whole issue pretty much goes away if you only grind the spine down to restore the tip.
If the tip snaps off, never re-shape it from the edge, just grind down the spine and your knife remains perfectly usable.
With enough time you may have to artificially shorten your knife as well, but if it's no longer pocketable you probably won't use it anymore anyway.
If you're grinding the spine down, you'd reduce the height of the point. I'm pretty sure it would work on the Manix. When you do this, just imagine reducing the length of the knife and moving the point down along the edge. (If that didn't make sense, I'm trying to say that your point would end up somewhere along your current edge.) Since your edge is always covered by the handle, by doing this, it's pretty much guaranteed to work, although the amount you would need to take off may be drastic if you've sharpened away 0.25" of your edge somehow.peacefuljeffrey wrote:That sounds like a viable solution, and I hadn't thought of it. Thanks.
I don't have my Manix 2 right with me at the moment, so I can't examine it to see if this would apply to that particular model; the shape of the handle might still mean that a shortened blade would come out from between the handle scales.
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