Never thought I'd say this, but a DULL NIB Spyderco?
Never thought I'd say this, but a DULL NIB Spyderco?
Hey folks, I have something that's not so much a complaint, as an observation. In the past 3 months, I've purchased 4 spydercos, a Fred Perrin fixed blade, Vallotton, Centofante3, and an Endura 4 ( non ffg)
The first thing I check for when I open a new knife, is to see what the edge is like ( second is lock up) Both of which I normally don't check my spydercos for, because they are normally perfect. However, I was pretty disappointed when I received these knives, as non of them were " Spyderco Sharp" or would even cleanly push cut phonebook paper. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't want to run my finger on the edge ( except the vallotton, that was about as sharp as an eraser) but they weren't anywhere near the sharpness I've come to expect. Mind you, all the Perrin, Endura, and Centofante needed was a few minutes on a strop and they became freakishly sharp. The Vallotton took close to two hours on some stones then strop to get it to what any knife person would call sharp. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I'm just used to taking a Spyderco out of a box and treating it like a lightsaber because of how sharp they were. Has anyone else noticed this recently? I hope I'm the only one.
Stay sharp
David
The first thing I check for when I open a new knife, is to see what the edge is like ( second is lock up) Both of which I normally don't check my spydercos for, because they are normally perfect. However, I was pretty disappointed when I received these knives, as non of them were " Spyderco Sharp" or would even cleanly push cut phonebook paper. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't want to run my finger on the edge ( except the vallotton, that was about as sharp as an eraser) but they weren't anywhere near the sharpness I've come to expect. Mind you, all the Perrin, Endura, and Centofante needed was a few minutes on a strop and they became freakishly sharp. The Vallotton took close to two hours on some stones then strop to get it to what any knife person would call sharp. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I'm just used to taking a Spyderco out of a box and treating it like a lightsaber because of how sharp they were. Has anyone else noticed this recently? I hope I'm the only one.
Stay sharp
David
- chuck_roxas45
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Hello! If as you say the second thing you do is lock up your knives after looking at them, then how sharp they are won't really matter, does it? I usually don't sharpen knives that I don't use.
I do put my own edges on knives before I take them with me to use. A factory edge pretty much doesn't matter to me besides I've found factory edges to be chippy anyway. Here's the edge I put on my M390 Millie.
I do put my own edges on knives before I take them with me to use. A factory edge pretty much doesn't matter to me besides I've found factory edges to be chippy anyway. Here's the edge I put on my M390 Millie.
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- chuck_roxas45
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Thanks, the lockup is great. Initially, it was earlier than where I was comfortable but after a couple of days cycling, it got to where I was comfortable at.DavidReid wrote:Gorgeous edge! I mean lock up as in the lock up on the knife, how strong it is. Also, I'm very sad I missed the M390 Millie
Yeh, I just like polished bevels but I usually end up with a brown rod micro which I find ideal for my EDC uses. :DDavidReid wrote:With spydercos I normally let the factory edge dull out then put my own on ( The always have the perfect amount of tooth to them)
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Well said , out of about 15 the only one that wasn't as sharp was the vallotton .Evil D wrote:I've had a couple that weren't very sharp. It happens. They're sharpened by real people, not machines.
I belive as D says in his review, this is due to the angles.
As it is the thickness too resulting in a need for experience sharpening at these degrees .
I can't complain I've had other brands that were truly blunt.
Bladekeeper wrote:Well said , out of about 15 the only one that wasn't as sharp was the vallotton .
I belive as D says in his review, this is due to the angles.
As it is the thickness too resulting in a need for experience sharpening at these degrees .
I can't complain I've had other brands that were truly blunt.
Yeah, at some point sharpness is directly effected by the thinness of the apex. You can sharpen something to 60 inclusive and have the apex as refined as possible but it will never be as sharp as an equally refined 30 inclusive edge. That knife in particular is so ridiculously wide at the tip, I was actually impressed with how sharp it was out of the box for what it is. It took a lot of work to get the tip of mine sharp enough to really pop hair off as easily as my other knives, but I still can't get it sharp enough to whittle hair.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Well another sad news. I do not care about how sharp NIB knife myself, anyway I can do it much better then Spyderco,DavidReid wrote:Hey folks, I have something that's not so much a complaint, as an observation. In the past 3 months, I've purchased 4 spydercos, a Fred Perrin fixed blade, Vallotton, Centofante3, and an Endura 4 ( non ffg)
The first thing I check for when I open a new knife, is to see what the edge is like ( second is lock up) Both of which I normally don't check my spydercos for, because they are normally perfect. However, I was pretty disappointed when I received these knives, as non of them were " Spyderco Sharp" or would even cleanly push cut phonebook paper. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't want to run my finger on the edge ( except the vallotton, that was about as sharp as an eraser) but they weren't anywhere near the sharpness I've come to expect. Mind you, all the Perrin, Endura, and Centofante needed was a few minutes on a strop and they became freakishly sharp. The Vallotton took close to two hours on some stones then strop to get it to what any knife person would call sharp. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but I'm just used to taking a Spyderco out of a box and treating it like a lightsaber because of how sharp they were. Has anyone else noticed this recently? I hope I'm the only one.
Stay sharp
David
but as yet another sign of Spyderco degradation. Some time ago Spyderco has best NIB edge, and now this is gone too...
Nope, three different dealers.Have they all been through the same place?
I think I've just been spoiled as far as out of box sharpness. Now that I know that it's done by hand, I'm very impressed with the evenness of the edge. I think I might play around with the Vallotton's blade a bit, I'd love to thin it out. Thanks for all the replies folks, I guess when I opened the Perrin yesterday and it wasn't quite as sharp as I wanted, I had a hissy fit. It's rather embarrassing now.
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I think you meant karma, CliffCliff Stamp wrote: Try to buy a lottery ticket and see if you can balance entropy.
My most recent, Native 5, felt sharp initially but lost it quickly, doing not much at all. Dropped the angle and refined the edge and it's truely a thing of beauty now.
I'm wondering if it got too hot the way you theorized your Nilakka had?
Ken
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That was an attempt at probability humor as I was using Entropy as a measure of disorder / expected behavior.
Most knives which are power sharpened without water will tend to show an improvement after hand sharpening. More makers are switching to wet grinding for this and other reasons. If you check out Striders channel on YT you can see Mick's set up which is relatively simple but looks very effective.
Most knives which are power sharpened without water will tend to show an improvement after hand sharpening. More makers are switching to wet grinding for this and other reasons. If you check out Striders channel on YT you can see Mick's set up which is relatively simple but looks very effective.
I haven't been impressed with the factory edge on any plain edged Spydies. It is a usable edge, it will cut things, but you can do a lot better yourself. I spent a little time putting a real edge on my brother-in-law's Ambitious today, it looks like that Military now and I am missing quite a bit of hair on my left arm.DavidReid wrote:The first thing I check for when I open a new knife, is to see what the edge is like ( second is lock up) Both of which I normally don't check my spydercos for, because they are normally perfect.
All God's critters have knives.
- Guy Vanderveken
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David I agree, Spyderco's should be sharp, as without that, all we have is a HOLE in a blade.
All my oldies are keen screamers, the best was the BG42 Milie sprint, WOW. ALL were sharp, and it is expected, after all we are not buying INFI Planks here.
We cannot have Striders(the other holish thing in the Blade Company) sharper than Spydies, Spydies are a sharpening company first, home of the Sharpmaker and awesome ceramics.
All my oldies are keen screamers, the best was the BG42 Milie sprint, WOW. ALL were sharp, and it is expected, after all we are not buying INFI Planks here.
We cannot have Striders(the other holish thing in the Blade Company) sharper than Spydies, Spydies are a sharpening company first, home of the Sharpmaker and awesome ceramics.
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I envy you Chuck. That edge looks gorgeous.chuck_roxas45 wrote:Hello! If as you say the second thing you do is lock up your knives after looking at them, then how sharp they are won't really matter, does it? I usually don't sharpen knives that I don't use.
I do put my own edges on knives before I take them with me to use. A factory edge pretty much doesn't matter to me besides I've found factory edges to be chippy anyway. Here's the edge I put on my M390 Millie.
:spyder: Centofante3 (C66PBK3), ParaMilitary2 (C81GPCMO), Endura4 (C10P), GrassHopper (C138P), Military (C36GPCMO), Perrin PPT (C135GP), Squeak (C154PBK), Dragonfly 2 Salt (C28PYL2), Military M390 CF (C36CFM390P), R (C67GF), ParaMilitary2 CTS-XHP (C81GPOR2), Tuff (C151GTIP), Ladybug & Perrin Street Bowie (FB04PBB)being the newest.