Clay 3.5 super blue RUST
Clay 3.5 super blue RUST
Hi guys. I bought my Caly 3.5 super blue about a year ago. Even though I love the knife, I did not use it much and carried it maybe 10 times. I spend a lot of time at work and a bigger knife is better for my EDC. Anyways, the knife was sitting in my display case along with all the other knives. I have a pretty big collection with all kinds of steel. Today, as I was cleaning my blades, I noticed several rust lines on both sides of the blade on Caly super blue. None of the other knives (vg 10, zdp, m390, s30v, s90v, etc...), had it. I tried to clean it but had no luck. Does anybody know why it could happen? Anybody had this issue? Please share your thoughts.
:) . I forgot to mention that I treat all my blades (except H1), with tuf-cloth every few months or after cleaning them.Evil D wrote:All of the steels you listed are stainless steel except one. Care to guess which one that is?
Super Blue is not a stainless steel, and if left un-oiled or put away wet or stored where moisture can get to it, it will rust.
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Bladekeeper
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I had some blades in a bag that are not users it has been -2 here for about three weeks with no heating because it broke I checked my knives and had rust spots.
The interesting thing for me is two were 8crmov but not spyderco yet my spyderco 8crmov were fine no problem it can be fluctuations in temperature , Warm in the day cold at night especially if its a glass cabinet although mine were in a codura padded bag.
A coating of oil and a silica gel tin should help .
Edit: very fine micro mesh may remove it after warm soapy water if its fine enough it shouldn't scratch .
The interesting thing for me is two were 8crmov but not spyderco yet my spyderco 8crmov were fine no problem it can be fluctuations in temperature , Warm in the day cold at night especially if its a glass cabinet although mine were in a codura padded bag.
A coating of oil and a silica gel tin should help .
Edit: very fine micro mesh may remove it after warm soapy water if its fine enough it shouldn't scratch .
Super Blue is pretty prone to rust. That's one reason I got rid of mine. It stinks because sharpening Super Blue is so easy and it produces a VERY sharp edge. But nothing in life is perfect. If you work in a humid environment, the Caly 3.5 in Super Blue may not be the best work knife. I'd stick with more corrosion-resistant steels (ie. VG10, S30V, S90V, M390, etc).
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mikerestivo
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Have you tried Rust Free from A. G. Russell? It works here in Florida on 01 and 1095. I don't know how it would work on Super Blue but at one time, I believe, Russell included a free bottle with his Super Blue knives.
** Endura 1 SE G2, Delica 1 CE G2, Co-Pilot SE Almite G2, Bob Terzuola Jr CE ATS-34, Rescue Jr SE ATS-55, Caly 3 PE VG-10 G10, Lady Bug II SE AUS-6, Delica 4 PE VG-10, Endura 4 CE Vg-10, Lady Bug 3 PE VG-10, Cricket SE VG-10, Salt 1 PE H1, Dragonfly 2 PE VG-10, UK Penknife PE CTS BD1 **
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God'sMyJudge
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The Mastiff
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It's not quite there for me but it is pretty darn rusty if not cared for. I don't mind caring for it as the upside to this steel makes it worth my time. For me to sit here and deny it rusts would be pretty silly though. :)Super Blue is the most rust/stain prone steel I've ever seen.
Yes! My choice as well. It dries leaving no visible trace yet it works. The pure silicone is so clear it looks like water. Naturally it needs retreating after certain uses. With this steels even if you have magic angel tears you still need to wash the corrosive/acidic stuff off and dry it before treating. I was even able to stop, and keep from rusting a super alloy custom that came to me with pitting developing from one fingerprint. It was at least twice as rusty as any of the blue steels, which aren't even as bad as Hitachi's White steels. That custom was in Rex 20 /M62/Vimcru20 http://www.crucible.com/eselector/prodb ... cpm20.html As you can see by the numbers it's a super high speed steel but is designed for applications where cobalt isn't allowed.Have you tried Rust Free from A. G. Russell? It works here in Florida on 01 and 1095. I don't know how it would work on Super Blue but at one time, I believe, Russell included a free bottle with his Super Blue knives.
I've found most of these super extra mega steels aren't really great in the edge stability area despite their high wear resistance. If the others rust and pit like this did they are more work than I like, and remember I'm the guy that prefers non stainless steels and mastiffwear...er, Cruwear is my kind of steel, along with O-1, 52100, W2, M2, M4, etc. These are like stainless steels compared to that rex 20/Vimcru20.
I always use a paste wax on my blades when storing them always out of the sheath.
I don't patina and keep mine looking newish, except for the scratches, and sand those to satin eventually when they get bad.
Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
