Spyderco Forums

Thanks for the extensive writeup Xavier! Very insightful!

Thanks for that interesting review and the pics.

Although the Tuff is out of my list for more than one reason (don`t need, wouldn`t use, afraid it rusts in drawer, fan of ambidextous locks, ...) the most valid information for my use is relative corrosion resistance of CPM-3V (as Superblue and M4 were mentioned not to stay as shiny) when care is being taken.
I tend to think the work with this knife was some hard one with a trained and expert hand steering the tool. Some might ruin even tougher knives trying to come to the same result. My tendency to use knives carefully leads me to think the given recommendations would apply for me.

So I would be very interested in the possible Southfork review used by the same skilled knife-fan.

Cliff Stamp wrote:Any features of the Tuff which made it stand out to you for the type of work it was used for?

The fuller was surprisingly useful as a grip aid when choked up for unzipping the belly.
Despite the fuller, the blade is quite weighty, aiding chopping of material like brambles and other vegetation of approx thumb diameter.
The angle between the long axis of handle and that of the blade likewise aids light chopping (but tends to encourage cutting with the tip or belly of blade when substrate is on a surface.)
Easy to clean open back design.

The thick spine has sharp corners which work well for scraping off bark on green wood (for toasting forks and such). Of course, you have to trust the lock and hope your lateral force isn't going to upset the pivot!)

Fundamentally, the knife feels overbuilt (hence for many users a fixed blade will make more sense) but by instilling this feeling in the user, it removes concern that you are abusing your expensive cutting tool.

If the blade was a lot thinner, it would make a more efficient cutting tool for 90% or more tasks required of a knife. However, there are plenty of Spydie folders that fulfil that role. The Tuff caters to a niche of actual tasks but appeals to fantasy "needs" of certain buyers.

I'd be interested in knowing how a zero grind Nilakka would behave in 3v?

Looks awesome man, I love mine. Glad to see its held up so well for you. Great pics and great review!!

Xavierdoc,
Thanks for the comprehensive review. I appreciate that you put the knife through many tasks over a period of time. The pictures were very good. I hope the piece serves you and yours for many years to come...Take Care...Ed

xavierdoc wrote:

What did you use to scallop out the bowl?
I've not had much luck using many blade types, shapes, and grinds in my attempts to carve spoons/ladles.

Great review BTW!

Ed Schempp wrote:Xavierdoc,
Thanks for the comprehensive review. I appreciate that you put the knife through many tasks over a period of time. The pictures were very good. I hope the piece serves you and yours for many years to come...Take Care...Ed

You and Spyderco did a good job on this knife, so thank you, too.

MachSchnell wrote:What did you use to scallop out the bowl?
I've not had much luck using many blade types, shapes, and grinds in my attempts to carve spoons/ladles.

Great review BTW!

For hollowing I did not use the Tuff, it was mainly used for roughing out the shape from the blank (for which I normally use an axe.) When hollowing the bowl of a spoon, I use a crook knife (usually a modified Frosts), gouges or a Flexcut Carvin Jack (jack of all trades, master of none, can't do it perfectly but gets the job done!)

On larger pieces I also use an adze and homemade mocotaugan.

You can carve a hollow with normal knife blade but it's not a satisfying process.

Thanks for the intense review, X. :)

xavierdoc wrote:The Tuff caters to a niche of actual tasks but appeals to fantasy "needs" of certain buyers.

Haha, very true. It could also be the desires of certain designers.

xavierdoc wrote:I'd be interested in knowing how a zero grind Nilakka would behave in 3v?

The original bushcraft in O1 is somewhat similar, but yeah, 3V would be interesting as well. It could respond very different.

Donut wrote:Haha, very true. It could also be the desires of certain designers.


The original bushcraft in O1 is somewhat similar, but yeah, 3V would be interesting as well. It could respond very different.

I have the Bushcraft (and have made similar O1 knives) and two other fixed blades with similar grind in 3v. None have the full flat zero grind of the Nilakka.

Great real world review! Cheers!

I keep going back to your thread because I just love seeing knives in use and real life settings. Great review, and of course, the pics! Thanks for sharing. You're making me want a knife I never thought I'd like, by the way.
Nice job, Ed and Sal (and whoever else might have chipped in).

- best wishes, Jazz.

Great review, I have a Tuff that is my EDC and I live in Florida and have not noticed any rust forming on the blade. I bicycle a lot and always carry the Tuff and I am usually covered in sweat by the time I get home and I have not applied any type of protection to the blade. Its funny I bought this knife after I moved down here and did not know that 3V was not stainless and when I found out I have been concerned but now that I have carried it for about 6 months and no signs of rust I am no longer worried about it. Like the OP has covered this is a great knife from lock up to carrying and I carry it in very thin shorts I have not had any issues with the weight or size of the knife. Since I live in rural Florida and wanted a big knife just in case of gators or wild hogs and of course I have not seen one yet but everyone else has but its nice to know that after your review I feel this knife will handle anything down here, just wish it would help with Mosquitos but even the Tuff has its limits.

Great review and many thanks for sharing this.

The tuff is my favorite spyderco..../ Im actually contemplating thinning it out behind the edge while keeping the grind at the same height. at the moment it probably 0.030" behind the edge , im thinking 0.018 would be nicer whilst keeping it as a hard user (its thick as a I dropped the angle)

razorsharp wrote:The tuff is my favorite spyderco..../ Im actually contemplating thinning it out behind the edge while keeping the grind at the same height. at the moment it probably 0.030" behind the edge , im thinking 0.018 would be nicer whilst keeping it as a hard user (its thick as a I dropped the angle)

Cant wait to see pics :D

The only considerations that are holding my purchase are related to the ease of sharpening/reprofiling this knife:

(1) How hard is it to sharpen the Tuff? I only have the Sharpmaker.
(2) The OP reprofiled his knife. Can this be done with the Sharpmaker?

Thanks!

xavierdoc wrote:I'd be interested in knowing how a zero grind Nilakka would behave in 3v?

I have wondered this myself. I'd love to see a Nilakka in 3V or even Cruwear