Cliff Stamp wrote:Any features of the Tuff which made it stand out to you for the type of work it was used for?
The fuller was surprisingly useful as a grip aid when choked up for unzipping the belly.
Despite the fuller, the blade is quite weighty, aiding chopping of material like brambles and other vegetation of approx thumb diameter.
The angle between the long axis of handle and that of the blade likewise aids light chopping (but tends to encourage cutting with the tip or belly of blade when substrate is on a surface.)
Easy to clean open back design.
The thick spine has sharp corners which work well for scraping off bark on green wood (for toasting forks and such). Of course, you have to trust the lock and hope your lateral force isn't going to upset the pivot!)
Fundamentally, the knife feels overbuilt (hence for many users a fixed blade will make more sense) but by instilling this feeling in the user, it removes concern that you are abusing your expensive cutting tool.
If the blade was a lot thinner, it would make a more efficient cutting tool for 90% or more tasks required of a knife. However, there are plenty of Spydie folders that fulfil that role. The Tuff caters to a niche of actual tasks but appeals to fantasy "needs" of certain buyers.
I'd be interested in knowing how a zero grind Nilakka would behave in 3v?
UKPK G10, UKPK Ti, Para 2CF&20CP, Stretch CF, Stretch CF conv, Manix2 M4,Endura Wave, Endura ZDP189, Pacific Salt, Captain, Gunting S30v, P'Kal, Gayle Bradley,Atlantic Salt, Spyderhawk, Crossbill, Wings slipit
Mules: CTSBD1, Super Blue, S90V, VG10, S35VN, Cos-3, M390 Fixed: Bushcraft, Warrior