Evaluation of H1 Steel

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me2
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Evaluation of H1 Steel

Postby me2 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 6:34 am

Thanks to Sal, I have in my possession 2 H1 folders, one PE and one SE. I think these are the Atlantic versions, roughly 3" blades.

I generally am not a fan of serrated blades, and dont own another to compare this one to, so the evaluation will be quite generic and nonspecific in terms of relative performance. This one was extremely sharp ootb, able to whittle hair with tbe straight portion at the tip. So far I have only really used it for kitchen work. I will use it to prep the cardboard for the evaluation of the plain edge. I have been edcing it for the past week, though nothing really demanding has come up. The knife is very light, and is unnoticable in my shirt pocket the same way my Delica is in my pants pocket. I like the blade shape in the kitchen, as the dropped tip allows cutting on a plate with only the tip touching, preserving the edge.

Just a note on the edges of the serrations. The edge angle on this one measures about 16 degrees inclusive. This is about the same as my thinnest folder, which is at 14 inclusive. For anyone who has ever wondered why serrations often get mangled, heres the reason. Many people shun such low angles for edc use, but if they carry a fully or partially serrated blade, they are likely in that range.

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Postby Zenith » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:18 am

me2

I got the Atlantic Salt a while back. SE version. You can see the videos here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/mwvanwyk/vi ... antic+salt

I have yet to sharpen it since I got it, but it has lost some of its sharpness, but no deformation that I can notice except near the tip due to all the bags I cut.

If you want me to do anything with the SE that we might compare notes one feel free to ask. I also reground my Salt 1 that has been a EDC user for 6 years now.

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Postby me2 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:29 am

Now for the plain edge. It arrived very sharp, able to shave over the whole edge and whittle hair over the last half. The edge is quite thin, 0.015" at the top of the 13 dps edge bevel. So far I've broken down a couple of boxes with no trouble, though the edge is a little duller, but still capable of shaving my arm. I'll be comparing it to a RADA Cutlery knife in 420HC. It eill need resharpening prior to that, as the bevels dont match and the Salt needs rebeveling to match. Should be easy with the already thin bevel.

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Postby Blerv » Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:41 am

Looking forward to your analysis me2. Thanks.
:spyder: Blake :spyder:

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Postby me2 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:52 am

I must not have the Atlantic version. These look like a Delica, with a little less pointy tip.

Zenith, can you put a fresh sharp edge on it and cut some cardboard or something and see how long the individual scallops can remain capable of push cutting printer paper? I've not tested but one other serrated blade, and that was years ago, but this was kinda how I did it.

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Postby Donut » Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:08 am

The model is possibly the Saver Salt.

Thanks for the testing.
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me2
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Postby me2 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 9:22 am

After a little kitchen use, I can say that the plain edge tip of the serrated version is better at cutting things like meat. Cutting up my pork chop was easier just using the plain edge tip than the serrations. I find this kinda odd, since nearly every steak knife I've seen has serrations.

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Postby Cliff Stamp » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:22 am

Chris, a few points :

-if you constrain the cutting to a scallop (zipper cuts on cardboard, whittling a fibreglass dowel, etc.) you can compare the plain edge vs serrated directly on a steel vs steel basis
-a general comparison would in fact also be interesting (2" draw cuts on cardboard)

As one of the main claims is work hardening in use/sharpening it would be interesting to see if the results are significantly different on the plain edge as-boxed compared to after a month say of very hard work (scraping, etc.) and sharpening.

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Postby spyderedge » Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:22 am

Don't forget H1 gets work hardened!
My :spyder: Endura 4 FFG Plain, Black in VG-10 had been my faithful EDC companion since 9/26/2012

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Postby me2 » Fri Jan 18, 2013 2:06 pm

spyderedge wrote:Don't forget H1 gets work hardened!
You're taunting me aren't you? See the other thread I started about H1. Its a few days old, but a search will find it.

I thought about the scallop vs pe compaison, but it will need to wait til I thin the pe Salt down to a comparable edge angle.

Upon further examination, I'll need to sharpen the pe Salt fully before any reliable comparisons. A good portion of the edge show small scratches and roughness that looks like it was filed with a VERY fine checkering file, 30 or more lines per inch. Its shallow and should come out during the first sharpening.

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Postby Cliff Stamp » Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:26 pm

me2 wrote: I thought about the scallop vs pe compaison, but it will need to wait til I thin the pe Salt down to a comparable edge angle.
A comparison at the as-boxed would still be useful because it would be precisely that, what to expect as boxed. This also serves as a reference for the angle normalized comparison later.

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Postby Cliff Stamp » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:23 am

Another note, I find H1 to be trivial to sharpen, not just grind but sharpen. So much so just after the shaping stage it will push cut newsprint if the blade is even a little off of perpendicular and this is off of the coarse side of a cheap benchstone.

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Postby Drahkis » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:51 am

From your description of your new knives (like a delica with a little less pointy tip) I would have to say you probably have the salt 1 model. The Pacific Salt is the Endura sized version, the Atlantic Salt and the Saver Salt are both a sheepsfoot or rescue type blade. Then of course there's the Tasman Salt with the hawkbill blade.

I just wanted to help clear that up, I like everyone to be on the same page.

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Postby Pockets » Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:09 am

I am looking forward to results of this test.
Delica PE, Dragonfly Salt SE, Stretch SE, Manbug SE, Mule 16, Sage 1, black/satin PM2, Native 5

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Postby me2 » Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:05 am

They are indeed salt 1 models. Out of curiosity, I checked the blades with a magnet. These are magnetic blades, indicating possible ferrite or martensite as part of the microstructure. I talked with a lab about doing some hardness testing and the can do ferrite testing as well.

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Postby me2 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:24 pm

So, been carrying and using these for a couple of weeks now. The serrated one has noticably lost sharpness, though the thin edge angles allow it to keep cutting, and the straight section near the tip will still shave in one small place. I've only really cut cardboard and such with it. The plain edge is beginning to show some edge damage, though I can't tell if it's chips or dents. Most of the damage lines up with the scratches on the edge. The plain edge will still shave with some effort, and the tip (last 1/2") is still very sharp. I'll report back soon, as I intend to sharpen the PE and do the comparison.

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sal
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Postby sal » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:23 pm

me2 wrote: I find this kinda odd, since nearly every steak knife I've seen has serrations.
Hi Chris,

Most steak knives are diulled by the plate on which they are cutting. Not from the steak. Serrations lift the cutting edge off of the plate preserving the edge.

Looking forward to more real world testing on H1.

sal

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Postby me2 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:33 pm

Thats one reason I like the shape of these blades. You can cut on a plate and only the tip pf the knife touches. The serrated blade has a slightly flattened tip, just enough to see. The rest of the blade never touches the plate, with some care.

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sal
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Postby sal » Sat Jan 26, 2013 6:38 pm

Hey Chris, hope you're using a 10X - 12X lupe while you're playing.

sal

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Postby me2 » Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:35 pm

I have a variable power pocket microscope :D .

I resharpened the PE Salt 1 today on just the Sharpmaker. The edge on one side was less than the 15 dps angle of the Sharpmaker. However, the other side was 19-20 degree range, and the bevel was scratched/honed along it's whole width. An area on the tip appears to be a tad higher and had some trouble hitting the 20 dps rod position. The whole edge is now sharp however, and will catch hair above my skin and whittle beard hair. After it gets dull this time, I'll reshape the edge bevel to 12 dps, and microbevel with the 15 dps slots on the 204.


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