Spyder You've Used In Pure Punishment Mode?

[JD Spydo]

The reason I've started this thead is 2 fold>> first of all I'm wondering if any of you experienced the same thing I did with a Spyderco Native. Second if not the Native then what model have you used for a punishing job where you didn't even think it would survive?

A while back I had an assembly Line type job where I needed a cutting tool that could endure pure punishment. And to tell you the truth I thought this was a job where I had literally no hope of the knife even surviving it. I had a used, Spyderedge 440V, SE, Golden CO USA made Native model that had been sitting in my footlocker without being used for quite some time. I just figured if I had to sacrifice one of my Spyders I would rather it be one that I had already used hard.

Much to my very pleasant surprise the Native not only survived a brutal and grueling job but I still have the knife and it's in great working order to this very day. I still even use it for mean jobs and it just won't die.

My question is "What Spyders Have You All Used In Brutal Grueling Work Conditions and It Survived Much To Your Surprise?" And I especially want to know the blade steel. Because I never had anything take punishment like that 440V blade on that FRN Native.

[chuck_roxas45]

When I first started out here on the forums, I needed a knife that I could use in the farm I used to have. I used an endura 4(the SG one) to dig for root rot and cut off diseased roots on my mango trees, chopped diseased branches up to maybe thumb diameter, and generally lots of farm work related things that I found out later "folding knives are not suitable for".

I still have that endura and it still works fine. :D

[spydie fanatic]

I always carry 2 knives; one I keep factory sharp for emergency use and the other as a hard user.

I carry a para2 PE or caly3 PE for the EU and a native SE for hard use...I choose the native for a hard user because I bought it cheap and had it resharpened, that with the fact its S30V make it perform its duties with no problems. If it gets dulled I just send it back in for a re-sharping, plus I don't care as I got it cheap.

I believe CPM 440V (S60V) will hold an edge a little longer than CPM S30V; the latter was chosen as it was easier to machine, which equals less wear on machinery and less overall costs.

[JD Spydo]

I always carry 2 knives; one I keep factory sharp for emergency use and the other as a hard user.

I carry a para2 PE or caly3 PE for the EU and a native SE for hard use...I choose the native for a hard user because I bought it cheap and had it resharpened, that with the fact its S30V make it perform its duties with no problems. If it gets dulled I just send it back in for a re-sharping, plus I don't care as I got it cheap.

I believe CPM 440V (S60V) will hold an edge a little longer than CPM S30V; the latter was chosen as it was easier to machine, which equals less wear on machinery and less overall costs.

Spydie I tend to agree with you whole heartedly on that rating of 440V. Even with the advent of S30V ( around the 02-03 time range) I ended up going back to the Spyders I had with 440V. Even when I used my Lil T Rhino Horn model I far preferred the 440V model over the S30V. Now don't get me wrong because S30V is a great blade steel and much better than most of the blade steels that many of Spyderco's competitors still use. But there is a toughness and ridgidity about 440V that I've yet to see equaled. I've heard that in demanding tests that S90V even overtakes 440V>> well when I get my Southfork and put it through the jobs I have planned for it I'll let you all know.

Also I find it interesting that so far FRN and G-10 seem to be the handle materials that take punishment beyond belief.

[dsmegst]

I have a beater Manix 2 that I use around the house. I've dug, pried, cut, chopped, left outside, and generally used it w/o giving it a 2nd thought. Aside from a bent tip and frequent sharpening sessions, it's held up just fine. I just bent the tip back and it's hardly noticeable.

[jnichols2]

I'm willing to use all my Spydrcos hard, real hard, but not for what I'd describe as "Pure Punishment Mode".

For years I used a Buck 110 for that purpose, my "toolbox" knife.

When I recently retired and got interested in nicer knives I foolishly bought a Smith & Wesson Border Guard and a Camillus Cuda. Once I tried Spyderco, those got dumped in a drawer. Then I got to thinking. The Buck 110 is 22 years old, and means a lot more to me than the S&W or Camillus ever will. Now I have two brand new "toolbox" knives. I bet they don't last as long as the Buck.

[BigBill5953]

I've beat the crap out of my Delica (maybe that's why it's brown... :) ) since I got it in August of 2011. I've stepped on it more times that I can count. It's gotten submerged in water a few times. It's gotten ran over by a pallet-jack. It's been dropped numerous times. I always think it won't be able to handle what I throw at it but it just keeps right on ticking.

[SolidState]

I have a Delica 2 CE that I have beaten beyond any recommended abuse. I've used it to split wood, and it was a dedicated throwing knife of mine for a while. I would do an inverse spyder drop upward and throw it into things at whim. I'm still pretty good at tossing it. She's retired now, but she's seen a ton of pain.

[spydutch]

A few years ago I had a printing job where I used one of my Delica's 3/SE VG10 very hard:

Cutting heavy plastic foils
Cutting away layers of rest foil on a cardboard cilinder while putting pressure with my other hand on the spine.
Cutting very heavy cardboard
Cutting heavy/thick tie rips

The Delica survived, but was screaming with vertical play after a week or so.

[JD Spydo]

In a way it doesn't surprise me that we have as many VG-10 blades reporting in. I still say that 440V is one tough animal and I never even had mine so much as even have a little chip anywhere after using it in a very punishing mode for over a long period of time.

Now it also doesn't surprise me that these Delica models are making a great show of themselves. I've thought for years that FRN handled Spyders are much tougher than we give them credit for. And personally when I got my first Spyder in FRN no one was more skeptical than myself. But FRN is some very tough handle material.

Nice feedbacks so far. I also find it extremely interesting that my pal Spydutch chimed in with a Spyderedged blade. I was thinking I would have probably been the only one to do so but now I get the feeling we will see some more Spyderedged reports.

[spydutch]

Despite the fact that Delica developped massive vertical play, the scallops of the SpyderEdge never chipped.

I once tried out a fresh out of the box Dodo/SE in S30V at that same job and the scallops chipped all over the place. :eek:
Once I sharpened out the chips and polished the edges it got better.
Had the same thing to a lesser degree with my Para 1/SE in S 30V

My Tasman Salt/SE excelled at that job until I lost it unfortunately :mad:

[BAL]

I have an Endura fully serrated VG-10 that I have basically used as a saw numerous times.
I have cut circular holes to run piping, cut limbs and branches, thistle, roots, fingers, weeds
and that sucker just keeps going, without sharpening. Sometimes I think the little spyder
fairies are coming in at night to sharpen it.

Maybe that's the little whistling and dancing sounds that I hear in my head when I am sleeping.

[akaAK]

Good thread. I find it interesting that people usually shy away from serrations but those are the knives that get used for punishing jobs. Mine is a FG Delica 4 CE. I never worry about that knife and it never lets me down. It became my hard user because it had a very bad grind from the factory that I rebeveled (a first for me on any knife). After that it sees a lot of hard use.

[Onionman]

My Military SE has taken a good amount of hard use, but not abuse. Mostly yard work, cutting branches, cord, and plastic. Digging and some gentle prying as well. Its still in great shape. Have to keep up with the sharpening, but its worth it since the serrations make cutting so much easier.

[JD Spydo]

My Military SE has taken a good amount of hard use, but not abuse. Mostly yard work, cutting branches, cord, and plastic. Digging and some gentle prying as well. Its still in great shape. Have to keep up with the sharpening, but its worth it since the serrations make cutting so much easier.

What blade steel does your Military model have "Onionman"?? I'd be willing to bet it's 440V?

Albeit it seems like VG-10 is the one that can really take the punishment on the Japan side. I sure would like to try out a fully serrated blade in S90V though.

[KardinalSyn]

SS Endura. Used mostly for cutting branches and board. By no means really hard usage but its the closest I will get with a folder. My Rat 3 and my cleaver does the hard stuff.

The Endura has also been dropped a few times, got dents but still going strong. No play at all.

[Onionman]

What blade steel does your Military model have "Onionman"?? I'd be willing to bet it's 440V?

Albeit it seems like VG-10 is the one that can really take the punishment on the Japan side. I sure would like to try out a fully serrated blade in S90V though.

I would think its 440V, but the blade has no markings. A few years ago I bought it off ebay used for a great price. I remember trying to research whether it was authentic and why the blade was not stamped with the logo or the steel. I saw a few posts that mentioned it was a real Spyderco, but not sure why it was not stamped or what steel it was. Can't complain though since it has been my go to working knife for over two years and counting.

[Sequimite]

My Caspian Salt is routinely used as a hammer and pry bar. The G-10 and blade are covered in scratches but it still performs like new after sharpening.

[JD Spydo]

My Caspian Salt is routinely used as a hammer and pry bar. The G-10 and blade are covered in scratches but it still performs like new after sharpening.

I was wondering when we would first hear of an H-1 Salt model being declared a super tough user. I'm all the time amazed at how much I can put one of my Tasmans through. That Caspian Salt is one blade I do want to snag later on when things get better but it will take a back seat to the Temp 2 and the Southfork.

Onionman what you may have might could be one of the prototypes. But you're not the only person I've heard that had a Spyder that didn't have the blade steel stamped on it. Or maybe at one time it might have been sent back to the factory for a blade replacement. But with the punishment you're describing I'm willing to bet that it's either a 440V or maybe even one of the older ATS-34 models.

[JAfromMN]

Here's my work knife most day's it's seen a lot of use and some abuse. A lot more than I like.