Just got my first Delica & I was wondering about the bronze bushings (or washers). I can't see them like I can on my Tenacious.
The Tenacious opens smoother. Just wondering if my Delica is missing the bronze bushings since I can't see them like on the Tenacious. Is this normal?
Delica
Hi,
I think I can answer your question. Bronze washers are present inside both delica and endura, they are just not as thick as inside tenacious and his siblings. In Tenacious you have maybe four washers (on each side two of them) inside delica it´s just one one each side and really thin. Delica will be better after many opening and closing actions. I would recommend to wash knife with luke water and soap, then lube it with some silicon lube (best is the one used for bycicles), maybe play with main screw (pivot is that word?) and screw holding backlock, or you can disassembly knife (what I did) and polish washers and all parts that are in contact, my knife is now smoooooth.
Hope this helps at least a little.
I think I can answer your question. Bronze washers are present inside both delica and endura, they are just not as thick as inside tenacious and his siblings. In Tenacious you have maybe four washers (on each side two of them) inside delica it´s just one one each side and really thin. Delica will be better after many opening and closing actions. I would recommend to wash knife with luke water and soap, then lube it with some silicon lube (best is the one used for bycicles), maybe play with main screw (pivot is that word?) and screw holding backlock, or you can disassembly knife (what I did) and polish washers and all parts that are in contact, my knife is now smoooooth.
Hope this helps at least a little.
“There's no friends like the old friends.” James Joyce, Dubliners
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jackknifeh
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How long have you had the Delica? I wouldn't do anything other than add oil for at least two weeks. The smoothness and overall opening/closing of MANY knives changes dramatically during this "break-in" period. Definately don't take it apart! This will void the warranty so if there is anything wrong with the knife you can't send it to Spyderco. I'd feel free to disassemble it after several months though. By then you will be pretty sure that if anything were wrong with it that would be covered by the warranty would have been noticed. After 6 months or so I'd take it apart all day long though. It's really nice being able to do this for cleaning, thorough lubing, etc. What I'd do is loosen the pivot screw, apply a drop of oil to each side of the blade tang then tighten the screw until the knife has no side to side blade play. Rinsing with water won't void the warranty so you can try that if you want. I think the main thing for starters is to let the knife get broken in before doing more drastic things. Just my opinion though.
Jack
Jack
Just to clarify.... You CAN still send to to Spyderco, it just isn't under warranty anymore. A small but possibly important distinction. I would ost you a few bucks, but you aren't out in the cold.jackknifeh wrote:Definately don't take it apart! This will void the warranty so if there is anything wrong with the knife you can't send it to Spyderco.
Ken
玉鋼
There is always a far better chance of something being constructed differently than it being assembled negligently. Often washers vary per knife too as its part of the fitting process.
Smoothness is based on various factors. Clean/oiled pivot, tightness, resistance (back spring), etc. lockbacks tend to be a bit more deliberate to open but can be very fast (use more strength). Liner locks aren't the most prone to stay closed, comparatively.
Smoothness is based on various factors. Clean/oiled pivot, tightness, resistance (back spring), etc. lockbacks tend to be a bit more deliberate to open but can be very fast (use more strength). Liner locks aren't the most prone to stay closed, comparatively.
I have 11 Spyderco knives. The only one that is "easy" to open is the Manix 2 XL. It's also the only one that the blade will open or close by gravity.
Basically; it probably takes me 1/4 second longer to open them. But none of my knives have any play in the blade whatsoever.
As for closing, I always use two hands. If I only had one knife, I could practice one hand closing. But, with so many different knives, I don't want to wind up closing one on a finger because I got used to a different one. No need to call me "Stumpy".
It seems that in order to get our knives to respond easily or "flick" them we need to adjust and lube them. I haven't yet felt a need to do so. I kind of like how they come from the factory.
Basically; it probably takes me 1/4 second longer to open them. But none of my knives have any play in the blade whatsoever.
As for closing, I always use two hands. If I only had one knife, I could practice one hand closing. But, with so many different knives, I don't want to wind up closing one on a finger because I got used to a different one. No need to call me "Stumpy".
It seems that in order to get our knives to respond easily or "flick" them we need to adjust and lube them. I haven't yet felt a need to do so. I kind of like how they come from the factory.
Ladybug, Delica x 2, Endura x 2, Military Black, Manix 2 XL, Civilian, Harpy, Caly 3.5 CF ZDP-189, Sage 1
Often to make a knife flickable it takes a little adjustment with the pivot, which tends to give the knife more lateral blade-play (or vertical with lockbacks).
It's fun to flick knives, I won't lie :) . It's not the best for wear & tear as you are pushing components faster and harder than they have to operate.
Also, against popular belief, the thumbnail flick is a pretty bad way to deploy a blade unless you're demoing on Youtube. A controlled thumb-opening or two-hand opening is almost as quick and nearly guaranteed success while having a secure grip the whole time. My Stretch FRN is the stiffest (by far) knife I own; it's also one of the fastest because it's smooth and the ergos personally jive with my hand.
It's fun to flick knives, I won't lie :) . It's not the best for wear & tear as you are pushing components faster and harder than they have to operate.
Also, against popular belief, the thumbnail flick is a pretty bad way to deploy a blade unless you're demoing on Youtube. A controlled thumb-opening or two-hand opening is almost as quick and nearly guaranteed success while having a secure grip the whole time. My Stretch FRN is the stiffest (by far) knife I own; it's also one of the fastest because it's smooth and the ergos personally jive with my hand.
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Blackhawk30
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timberweasel
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Yessir! I own very few knives that I flick with any sort of regularity... none of 'em are Spydercos. Personally, I don't see the need but that's just my mileage. Is it coincidence that all of my lockbacks have little to no blade-play? Not sure...Blerv wrote:Often to make a knife flickable it takes a little adjustment with the pivot, which tends to give the knife more lateral blade-play (or vertical with lockbacks).
It's fun to flick knives, I won't lie :) . It's not the best for wear & tear as you are pushing components faster and harder than they have to operate.
Also, against popular belief, the thumbnail flick is a pretty bad way to deploy a blade unless you're demoing on Youtube. A controlled thumb-opening or two-hand opening is almost as quick and nearly guaranteed success while having a secure grip the whole time. My Stretch FRN is the stiffest (by far) knife I own; it's also one of the fastest because it's smooth and the ergos personally jive with my hand.
