superblue no stain

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elena86
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superblue no stain

Postby elena86 » Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:31 pm

I am looking forward for the new Caly 3 in Superblue.I'd like to use it even for food prep but I wonder if it's possible to keep it away from stain.Do you guys think it's possible ? Maybe using Tuff Glide or similar stuff ?

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Postby ricechrispy » Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:00 pm

My understanding is that Tuff Glide is not food-safe (i.e. poisonous).
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Postby DeathBySnooSnoo » Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:09 pm

elena86 wrote:I am looking forward for the new Caly 3 in Superblue.I'd like to use it even for food prep but I wonder if it's possible to keep it away from stain.Do you guys think it's possible ? Maybe using Tuff Glide or similar stuff ?
While Tuf Glide might help...in the long run, you are probably going to see patina form. Tuf Glide is not a permanent solution. Depending on use you will have to reapply every 1-3 months.

Also, there is a thread somewhere in which the toxicity of Tuf Glide is discussed and apparently it is not toxic and is food safe.
On the hunt for...

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Postby Ankerson » Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:09 pm

PAM works great, yes the cooking spray.

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elena86
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Postby elena86 » Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:35 pm

DeathBySnooSnoo wrote:While Tuf Glide might help...in the long run, you are probably going to see patina form. Tuf Glide is not a permanent solution. Depending on use you will have to reapply every 1-3 months.

Also, there is a thread somewhere in which the toxicity of Tuf Glide is discussed and apparently it is not toxic and is food safe.
I wonder how did the samurai keep their katana blades so shiny ? AFAIK blood is very corrosive.I know they took good care of their blades but even so...I wonder !
This is a quest for me because I realized that in the history of the world the most famous blades, and most successful were made in carbon steel.Katanas, true Damascus blades and so on...I wish Spyderco made more carbon steel blades and I am sure it must be a viable solution to avoid stain wich is the first step to rust.

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Blerv
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Postby Blerv » Thu Sep 27, 2012 2:55 pm

Anything is possible. I use mineral oil for my CPM-M4 Manix2 and only apply it once a month (if that). Not a spec of anything.

If you are one to leave a knife wet/dirty and rarely apply some type of non-poisonous corrosion preventative, you will probably see patina. If you are fastidious about your maintenance, I'm sure you wont. If you are paranoid and use Tuf Glide I can almost guarantee not. The result of corrosion is similar to any other wear (intensity x duration).

No clue on the Samurai. Probably using natural oils and treating their blades with their famed honor. People these days in modern society are pretty abusive to tools. There are places like the jungles of Indonesia where simple carbon steels are the norm. Usually from old automotive springs, etc.
:spyder: Blake :spyder:

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Postby Clip » Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:16 pm

I posted this in a thread a while back, also I plan on getting a few of the SB Caly3s :) :

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... post798889
Clip wrote:From Sentry concerning toxicity:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... post689547

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showt ... post689550

After reading this, I would not hesitate to apply Tuf-Glide to carbon steel knives used in the kitchen, especially because they'll be fixed blades and have no pivot to hold moisture/trash/excess lubricant. I'd just be sure to apply and let sit for a week or to to be sure the carrier (mineral spirits, IIRC) has evaporated. As for folders, I've applied it to the M4 Manix2, over the blade and pivot, and would use that for food prep if the need ever arose. I make sure to apply and get a good coating, but then spend a few days cleaning all the remainder out with a q-tip as it collects a bit of dust or looks wet. After a few weeks of carry and I'm sure it's not juicy any more, I'd feel ok using it on edibles.

Tasteless? I'm not sure, never tried it when wet. Dry, can't tell. A hint of carbon steel. Odorless? When wet, hell no. Some people are offended by the smell (I can see why), but just smells like most other lubricants/cleaners in the shop. When dry, can't tell.
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Postby Cliff Stamp » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:03 pm

elena86 wrote:I wonder how did the samurai keep their katana blades so shiny ?
Clean + polish as necessary. Oils etc. come off immediately in use, even industrial spray on HD protectants. I have even sprayed on automotive rust protectors and even light grass cutting will remove them in minutes.

Some foods can tarnish a blade you are cutting them unless you are extremely fanatical about keeping the blade oiled.

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Postby Nederspyder » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:33 pm

What's all this talk about a SB Caly 3? Wil there be a sprint run or is it just wishful thinking?

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Postby Blerv » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:42 pm

Nederspyder wrote:What's all this talk about a SB Caly 3? Wil there be a sprint run or is it just wishful thinking?
Sal has said a Superblue Caly3 with grey scales (similar to the 3.5) is in the works.

Also said a Stretch and some others might be happening down the road (no dates mentioned) in Superblue.
:spyder: Blake :spyder:

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Postby jabba359 » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:51 pm

Blerv wrote:Sal has said a Superblue Caly3 with grey scales (similar to the 3.5) is in the works.

Also said a Stretch and some others might be happening down the road (no dates mentioned) in Superblue.
I've said it once, I've said it twice, and I'll say it again. Make a Dialex Junior Super Blue sprint and I'll buy it. So hopefully there will be a sprint of that mixed in with all the others getting the SB treatment. Not likely it'll happen, but a guy can dream.
-Kyle

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Postby kbuzbee » Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:54 pm

Blerv wrote:Sal has said a Superblue Caly3 with grey scales (similar to the 3.5) is in the works.

Also said a Stretch and some others might be happening down the road (no dates mentioned) in Superblue.
Caly 3 sounded like a done deal, using SB leftover from the 3.5s. Stretch was a ways out due to new steel purchase required. Others mentioned: Dragonfly, Endura, Delica... I'm hoping for a Jester too!

Ken
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Invective
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Postby Invective » Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:27 pm

Oh my word a Caly3 in SB?

I've been wanting to try out SB for a while and living in CA, the 3.5 doesn't really appeal to me (that and I tend to like shorter knives anyway) so I will definitely be wanting this. This is even more appealing to me than the Endura and Delica's in SB.

In short, do want *-*

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Postby kbuzbee » Fri Sep 28, 2012 5:55 am

Invective wrote:Oh my word a Caly3 in SB?

I've been wanting to try out SB for a while and living in CA, the 3.5 doesn't really appeal to me
I've got a couple 3s in other steels. The SB is my only 3.5 and I like the format a bit more. That said, my 3.5 needs a little brother ;)

Ken
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Postby Clip » Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:08 am

kbuzbee wrote:I've got a couple 3s in other steels. The SB is my only 3.5 and I like the format a bit more. That said, my 3.5 needs a little brother ;)

Ken
Agreed. Before I got the 3.5 I thought the 3 was better proportioned. Now I think the 3 comes up just a tad short :)
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Postby xceptnl » Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:31 am

I have been able to use my 3.5 in the kitchen with an occasional treatment of FLITZ to provide a protective barrier against staining. I also use a light coat of mineral oil to add extra protection.
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Postby SolidState » Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:33 am

elena86 wrote:I wonder how did the samurai keep their katana blades so shiny ?
Almost all Japanese sword art forms utilize a final set of moves which is effectively a shaking off of blood or wiping of blood prior to sheathing. The terms for these moves are chiburi and nōtō respectively. You can generally tell a practitioner's type of training by the complexity or subtlety of their chiburi and noto.

Further, you use a mild abrasive powder made from finely ground fine polishing stones, and kept in a silk ball on a stick called Uchiko to remove oil and light tarnish after cutting. Then you use a light coating of mineral oil with a hint of cloves in it to coat the blade. Modern practitioners generally use gun oil cloths after tameshigiri (test cutting) as well. Also, the scabbard is generally made of honoki wood which is a japanese magnolia similar in texture to American aspen or poplar. The wood is capable of dealing with humidity and acts kind of like the opposite of a humidor for the blade. A coating of lacquer prevents water from getting into the scabbard from the outside, and a tight-fitting metal to horn joint (koiguchi or carp's mouth) is used at the mouth of the scabbard to tightly seal the blade inside.

Interestingly enough, the tang on a japanese sword is left to patina and removing the patina from the tang (nakago) diminishes the value of the blade in art pieces. The patina generally assists the tension fit between the handle and the tang and indicates proper treatment and age.
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Postby Invective » Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:51 am

kbuzbee wrote:I've got a couple 3s in other steels. The SB is my only 3.5 and I like the format a bit more. That said, my 3.5 needs a little brother ;)

Ken
Clip wrote:Agreed. Before I got the 3.5 I thought the 3 was better proportioned. Now I think the 3 comes up just a tad short :)
So it sounds like you guys are saying i should get both :D

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Postby Domanfp » Sat Sep 29, 2012 10:38 am

Why would you try to avoid the patina?! That is my favorite feature of the SB. The patina looks great once you embrace it
-Frank


Delica and Endura are great knives! They're the low priced crack samples that'll get you hooked on spyderco! Feed the need!
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Postby kbuzbee » Sat Sep 29, 2012 12:36 pm

Domanfp wrote:Why would you try to avoid the patina?! That is my favorite feature of the SB. The patina looks great once you embrace it
Not mine. My favorite feature of SB is the edge it takes. But the patina is a great "benefit". Simply love it.

Ken
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