Stiff Native FRN
Stiff Native FRN
Just got my first "real" Spyderco a Native FRN! (I've had a Bryd Meadowlark 2 for a while now which I really do like.) I have loved the design of the Native for a long time, but it is definitely much better in hand! :D
What I was wondering was, does the Native have brass bushings?
It is very stiff and since it is pinned together it cant be adjusted.
I know, I know I need to play with it (which I have been non-stop since I got it) and clean it, but will this eventually loosen up or is this a known stiff knife?
Thanks!
What I was wondering was, does the Native have brass bushings?
It is very stiff and since it is pinned together it cant be adjusted.
I know, I know I need to play with it (which I have been non-stop since I got it) and clean it, but will this eventually loosen up or is this a known stiff knife?
Thanks!
I have heard this complaint from other Native owners. I have had one for about 2 years now and I have the same problem. Very stiff. I need two hands to close it comfortably. I used some Blue Lube oil at the pivot and it helped a little bit but it is no where near the smoothness of any other of my Spydercos.
- The Deacon
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I've never seen a Native split apart, so I can't say for sure, but if it's constructed like other Spyderco unlined FRN models, there are no separate washers, just a series of conscentic circular raised ridges around the pivot holes that serve as built in washers. Photo in this thread illustrates what I'm describing.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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If it doesn't get more comfortable I would mail it into Spyderco following the directions on their Warranty and Repair section (website). They might be able to tweak it or find a replacement with a lighter action.
Unfortunately as you said it's not really adjustable. People have been able to adjust pinned knives with shims and light hammering but I wouldn't recommend it for most. Reversing the effects accurately is tough.
Unfortunately as you said it's not really adjustable. People have been able to adjust pinned knives with shims and light hammering but I wouldn't recommend it for most. Reversing the effects accurately is tough.
- Fred Sanford
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I have had a couple of Natives in FRN. I did have only one that was a bit stiff but it worked itself out after using it daily for a few months. If you have owned it for 2 years and used it regularly then I would send it in. If you have simply owned it but not really done much with it, then I would recommend using it.
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- Cheddarnut
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I find all the models with the raised 'fake' bushings to be stiff, the frn stretch specifically. Dislike.
Ps we all seem to be assuming u have a native three, the native one has no fake bushings and never had the stiff issues in my experience. Which native did u get?
Ps we all seem to be assuming u have a native three, the native one has no fake bushings and never had the stiff issues in my experience. Which native did u get?
"...is cabbage a better blue than cars that sing?" C.S.
- chuck_roxas45
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Hhhmmm thread title made me think it was about a porn movie... :p
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- The Deacon
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That's incredible, considering the FRN Stretch has steel liners and phosphor bronze washers. As for assumptions, both the C41 Native Lightweight and the C78 Native 3 have one piece unlined FRN handles and, unless the C41 Lightweight has recently switched to a pivot screw, both use a riveted/pinned pivot. Unless you've had one of either apart, I'm not sure how you can be positive how the interior of the handle is configured.Cheddarnut wrote:I find all the models with the raised 'fake' bushings to be stiff, the frn stretch specifically. Dislike.
Ps we all seem to be assuming u have a native three, the native one has no fake bushings and never had the stiff issues in my experience. Which native did u get?
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
I got the C41 PE Native. Since posting I have cleaned and lubed it again and again, and now with opening and closing it till my wife was about to go insane it is opening and closing a little easier.
In reality I didn't buy this as self defense weapon, but as a work knife, which is exactly what it was designed for.
I love it period!
In reality I didn't buy this as self defense weapon, but as a work knife, which is exactly what it was designed for.
I love it period!
Well, now that I have had the Native FRN for a while now and have EDC'd it regularly, I still say it is the stiffest knife I have ever owned.
I love the design and it fits my hand like a glove, but I have to think about it or my thumb almost slips out of the spydie hole when opening. I am living over seas in Asia Pacific and we don't have a lot of choices to lube it with other than say WD-40 or regular light machine oil. Neither works well and now it is almost sticky when opening or closing it.
I'm sure that I am not the only one to experience this though I am a bit surprised since I did a good bit of research and never saw this listed as a problem from users.
If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them!
Yes I know I could send it back to Spyderco, but I am on the other side of the world and shipping is costly and am always worried when a knife goes through customs here.
Anyone?
I love the design and it fits my hand like a glove, but I have to think about it or my thumb almost slips out of the spydie hole when opening. I am living over seas in Asia Pacific and we don't have a lot of choices to lube it with other than say WD-40 or regular light machine oil. Neither works well and now it is almost sticky when opening or closing it.
I'm sure that I am not the only one to experience this though I am a bit surprised since I did a good bit of research and never saw this listed as a problem from users.
If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them!
Yes I know I could send it back to Spyderco, but I am on the other side of the world and shipping is costly and am always worried when a knife goes through customs here.
Anyone?
- The Deacon
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That's the main reason I wish more folks would take the time to at least add a location to their profile here. Even just the country.Deal4 wrote:Well, now that I have had the Native FRN for a while now and have EDC'd it regularly, I still say it is the stiffest knife I have ever owned.
I love the design and it fits my hand like a glove, but I have to think about it or my thumb almost slips out of the spydie hole when opening. I am living over seas in Asia Pacific and we don't have a lot of choices to lube it with other than say WD-40 or regular light machine oil. Neither works well and now it is almost sticky when opening or closing it.
I'm sure that I am not the only one to experience this though I am a bit surprised since I did a good bit of research and never saw this listed as a problem from users.
If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them!
Yes I know I could send it back to Spyderco, but I am on the other side of the world and shipping is costly and am always worried when a knife goes through customs here.
Anyone?
Agree that tightness isn't a common problem for the Native. In fact, most complaints I've seen about the C41 have been the opposite - that the backspring tends to be weak. I'd suggest giving it a good washing out with hot soapy water. After that, depress the lock and see if the blade moves easily and smoothly. If it does not, you can try GENTLY wiggling the blade from side to side to force the handle slabs a bit further apart.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
About the country I am not at liberty to say, just Asia Pacific. (Nothing military or anything of the sort)The Deacon wrote:That's the main reason I wish more folks would take the time to at least add a location to their profile here. Even just the country.
Agree that tightness isn't a common problem for the Native. In fact, most complaints I've seen about the C41 have been the opposite - that the backspring tends to be weak. I'd suggest giving it a good washing out with hot soapy water. After that, depress the lock and see if the blade moves easily and smoothly. If it does not, you can try GENTLY wiggling the blade from side to side to force the handle slabs a bit further apart.
Thanks for the tip of the hot soapy water. Will give that a shot! Much appreciate it!
Shad
Huh, mineral oil. Never would have thought of that. Will have to see if I can come up with some.araneae wrote:Wash it out like Paul said lube it lightly. Look for mineral oil at a pharmacy and use it sparingly.
Thanks for the tip! This is why I love this forum: I have the wisdom of literally thousands at my fingertips! :)
Hahaha :Dchuck_roxas45 wrote:Hhhmmm thread title made me think it was about a porn movie... :p
Kinda off topic, but that goddard looks amazing! str does some nice workThe Deacon wrote:I've never seen a Native split apart, so I can't say for sure, but if it's constructed like other Spyderco unlined FRN models, there are no separate washers, just a series of conscentic circular raised ridges around the pivot holes that serve as built in washers. Photo in this thread illustrates what I'm describing.
-Spencer
Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
Rotation:
Gayle Bradley 2 | Mantra 1 | Watu | Chaparral 1 | Dragonfly 2 Salt SE
Ok, no one shoot me for resurrecting an old thread, but now over a year later from when I bought my Native lightweight I am still having some major problems with getting it to open and close smoothly. I realize that with just FRN on S30V, this will never be the fastest deploying knife, but this is bad.
I have not been able to find the mineral oil here, but even without it, the knife should be much easier to open and close. It is so sticky it almost feels like someone tried to shove gum inside. It now almost takes two hands to open. Obviously there is a problem, but when I tried to clean it using hot water and dish soap it only helped a little. Is there a better way of cleaning the pivot?
I love this knife, but I now very rarely use it. I use my byrd Meadowlark 2 now instead for EDC.
Please help me out here. I am almost ready to go back to using some of my Kershaws instead. (yes, it is getting that bad!)
I have not been able to find the mineral oil here, but even without it, the knife should be much easier to open and close. It is so sticky it almost feels like someone tried to shove gum inside. It now almost takes two hands to open. Obviously there is a problem, but when I tried to clean it using hot water and dish soap it only helped a little. Is there a better way of cleaning the pivot?
I love this knife, but I now very rarely use it. I use my byrd Meadowlark 2 now instead for EDC.
Please help me out here. I am almost ready to go back to using some of my Kershaws instead. (yes, it is getting that bad!)
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Dear Deal4:
Could you please try a few diagnositcs to see if we can get a better idea of the problem?
Open the blade and, while carefully holding it open with one hand, work the back lock release repeatedly. Does it move smoothly? Does it seat the lock properly when released?
Holding the knife in the same position, depress the lock release to take the pressure off the blade tang. Rotate the blade open and closed. What do you feel? Is it gummy? Do you hear a gritty sound?
Carefully wash the knife in hot, soapy water again. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the tang of the closed blade, the lock notch, and the inside of the handle slot. With the knife underwater and using two hands, depress the lock release and open and close the blade repeatedly. Does it feel any different?
Rinse the knife under running water and dry it. Then add a small amount of the best quality oil you can get to the pivot mechanism. Make sure you get a little oil on the spot where the tang contacts the locking bar. Open and close the blade repeatedly with two hands to work it in. Any difference?
Did you cut anything juicy or sticky that could have gotten into the pivot? Did you lube the pivot with WD-40? WD-40 literally gets its name from "water displacement, 40th try." It's designed to displace water and to help loosen rusted nuts and bolts. It is not a lubricant and will gum up over time. If that happens, the best solution is to use more WD-40 to dissolve the gum back into solution, and then flush it away with alcohol to get down to the bare surfaces so you can lube them with a real oil.
I hope this helps.
Stay safe,
Mike
Could you please try a few diagnositcs to see if we can get a better idea of the problem?
Open the blade and, while carefully holding it open with one hand, work the back lock release repeatedly. Does it move smoothly? Does it seat the lock properly when released?
Holding the knife in the same position, depress the lock release to take the pressure off the blade tang. Rotate the blade open and closed. What do you feel? Is it gummy? Do you hear a gritty sound?
Carefully wash the knife in hot, soapy water again. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the tang of the closed blade, the lock notch, and the inside of the handle slot. With the knife underwater and using two hands, depress the lock release and open and close the blade repeatedly. Does it feel any different?
Rinse the knife under running water and dry it. Then add a small amount of the best quality oil you can get to the pivot mechanism. Make sure you get a little oil on the spot where the tang contacts the locking bar. Open and close the blade repeatedly with two hands to work it in. Any difference?
Did you cut anything juicy or sticky that could have gotten into the pivot? Did you lube the pivot with WD-40? WD-40 literally gets its name from "water displacement, 40th try." It's designed to displace water and to help loosen rusted nuts and bolts. It is not a lubricant and will gum up over time. If that happens, the best solution is to use more WD-40 to dissolve the gum back into solution, and then flush it away with alcohol to get down to the bare surfaces so you can lube them with a real oil.
I hope this helps.
Stay safe,
Mike
Michael Janich
Spyderco Special Projects Coordinator
Founder and Lead Instructor, Martial Blade Concepts
Spyderco Special Projects Coordinator
Founder and Lead Instructor, Martial Blade Concepts
After this long, it's probably the spring, too strong, anything else would have worn in. There is not much you can do with a stiff spring.
FYI:
I have a couple of pinned Natives, one was impossible to open with one hand. Sent it in to Golden with no sucess.
I removed the pivot pin, took out the spring, weakened the spring, it worked like a charm.
DON'T TRY IT UNLESS YOU HAVE A LOT OF KNIFE EXPERIENCE.
sorry!
FYI:
I have a couple of pinned Natives, one was impossible to open with one hand. Sent it in to Golden with no sucess.
I removed the pivot pin, took out the spring, weakened the spring, it worked like a charm.
DON'T TRY IT UNLESS YOU HAVE A LOT OF KNIFE EXPERIENCE.
sorry!
SCARAMOUCHE!
Just wanted to reply that I really appreciate your advice! This sounds exactly like what happened with the WD-40 and as soon as I can (hopefully today) I will see if this helps.Michael Janich wrote:Dear Deal4:
Could you please try a few diagnositcs to see if we can get a better idea of the problem?
Open the blade and, while carefully holding it open with one hand, work the back lock release repeatedly. Does it move smoothly? Does it seat the lock properly when released?
Holding the knife in the same position, depress the lock release to take the pressure off the blade tang. Rotate the blade open and closed. What do you feel? Is it gummy? Do you hear a gritty sound?
Carefully wash the knife in hot, soapy water again. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the tang of the closed blade, the lock notch, and the inside of the handle slot. With the knife underwater and using two hands, depress the lock release and open and close the blade repeatedly. Does it feel any different?
Rinse the knife under running water and dry it. Then add a small amount of the best quality oil you can get to the pivot mechanism. Make sure you get a little oil on the spot where the tang contacts the locking bar. Open and close the blade repeatedly with two hands to work it in. Any difference?
Did you cut anything juicy or sticky that could have gotten into the pivot? Did you lube the pivot with WD-40? WD-40 literally gets its name from "water displacement, 40th try." It's designed to displace water and to help loosen rusted nuts and bolts. It is not a lubricant and will gum up over time. If that happens, the best solution is to use more WD-40 to dissolve the gum back into solution, and then flush it away with alcohol to get down to the bare surfaces so you can lube them with a real oil.
I hope this helps.
Stay safe,
Mike
Thanks again!
Deal4
Mike,
Thanks a lot for your help with my Native lightweight!
I used the WD-40 again to loosen it up and then the alcohol to clean it all out. It now opens and closes better than it ever has before.
It is now back as my daily EDC as I love the way it just fits my hand.
Thanks for taking the time to help me out!
Deal4
Thanks a lot for your help with my Native lightweight!
I used the WD-40 again to loosen it up and then the alcohol to clean it all out. It now opens and closes better than it ever has before.
It is now back as my daily EDC as I love the way it just fits my hand.
Thanks for taking the time to help me out!
Deal4