Like 1000-1200?razorsharp wrote:I like my edges somewhere in the middle :)
Ken
I have been deep into competition cutting lately so I have been playing with the tougher steels. Notable standouts are CPM M4, and 3V.kbuzbee wrote:So which steels fall into which catagory for you, Ken?
(also)Ken
unit wrote: I take them up to 15k and they polish wonderfully and slice like demons.
There are slicing cuts being added to the comps all the time. One very notable cut is a piece of foam tubing about 3 inches thick that is poorly supported on the end of a soda bottle that is also poorly supported with a single screw that allows the bottle to spin and wiggle. A push cut will pull the foam down and off the bottle, and an aggressive coarse edge will cause my bottle to spin in the fixture. A polished edge will cut thin wafers off as shown at 3:20 in the attached video.Cliff Stamp wrote:In general it is going to depend strongly on the profile. I have some knives which have edge angles of 5-10 dps and edge thickness of between 0.005-0.010" with high primary grinds (hollow/flat/convex). It is pointless to put a low grit edge on them to obtain slicing aggression because they will simply push through anything anyway without any significant force. You can slice a potato for example without even one pound registering on a scale, push right through 3/8" hemp with less than 10 lbs, which outside of a scale you will barely feel.
What do you mean exactly when you say it slices well?
At 15, 000 grit with the edge on a competition blade which is usually 0.015"-0.020"/10-15 dps the edge should just push through any medium directly, how exactly are you determining the level of slicing aggression when the applied contact forces are going to be so very low?
That edge for example should push cut a 3/8" piece of hemp with < 10 lbs of force on a straight push, even with the mechanical advantage of a slice (without any "saw" effect), you would need to be able to measure the contact force to at least 5% to even see a difference.
I agree with you, Ken and it emphasizes the vast number of factors that are "you" specific. What exactly you it. How often. If what style as well as differences in sharpening techniques. Ther are ome interesting ideas on the difference you get stropping toward the heel vs toward the tip.unit wrote:I would prefer for everyone to do their own testing and arrive at their own conclusions...
Well sure.... Like any spectator sportunit wrote:it is a lot more interesting to see people argue with themselves
unit wrote:There are slicing cuts being added to the comps all the time. One very notable cut is a piece of foam tubing about 3 inches thick that is poorly supported on the end of a soda bottle that is also poorly supported with a single screw that allows the bottle to spin and wiggle. A push cut will pull the foam down and off the bottle, and an aggressive coarse edge will cause my bottle to spin in the fixture. A polished edge will cut thin wafers off as shown at 3:20 in the attached video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqHN0GN5 ... age#t=200s
There are other examples...I am not going to attempt to preach or teach. I would prefer for everyone to do their own testing and arrive at their own conclusions...it is a lot more interesting to see people argue with themselves
For the polished one I'll go DMT EF > 1500 grit SC paper > 2000 SC paper > green compound strop. 600 grit probably for the 'toothy' other.kbuzbee wrote: ......I'll be interested in hearing your experiences with the S90Vs. How far polished are you taking the one? Seems like 600 would be good for the other.
Try a coarse edge on that S110V blade, it will be like cutting with a hacksaw. :DThe Mastiff wrote:It depends on the knife/steel/grind and it's intended uses. I've been leaning more towards steels with bite lately and leaving them mainly DMT Coarse/Coarse though I have all kinds of equipment and can tailor an edge. When polishing I have rarely gotten above 8,000K with .25 diamond strop. I haven't really needed more. I don't do much push cutting and cut more light plastic than probably anything else.
The action of the edge is still a push, the mechanical movement of the foam is simply due to the gross forces on the blade and the fact that a draw puts it under tension horizontally while a push loads the foam (as a whole) vertically. As you noted, as soon as you try to actually slice it (cut horizontally) with a coarse finish it moves and thus what you are doing edge wise is a pure push cut (the loads on the material at the edge are vertical).unit wrote:One very notable cut is a piece of foam tubing about 3 inches thick that is poorly supported on the end of a soda bottle that is also poorly supported with a single screw that allows the bottle to spin and wiggle. A push cut will pull the foam down and off the bottle, and an aggressive coarse edge will cause my bottle to spin in the fixture. A polished edge will cut thin wafers off as shown at 3:20 in the attached video.