Mr. Schempp, Sal and Tuff owners,I have a couple questions about the Tuff's Pivot
Mr. Schempp, Sal and Tuff owners,I have a couple questions about the Tuff's Pivot
I stripped out my torx wrench t-9 IIRC on the Tuff's pivot, and I still was not able to break it free. (that pivot must be made from 3v too! anyways, its a refrehing change from when you strip out the screw in a chinese model, a wrench can be replaced at my corner store, the screw cannot)
As I mentioned in another thread, and a few other owners commented with similar experience, the Tuff has a really tight action and blade retention. Part of that is the heavy duty short lock bar putting pressure on the blade im sure. But it feels like the pivot could be a little looser. And therin lies the problem...
Nothing I do will break this pivot screw loose. Which makes me curious about its construction. Is it really all 1/2" threads and all? That would explain why I am having resistance with that much surface area to over come. Or as I picture it, one with a big head, with more traditional smaller screw like threads that fit into the corresponding large 1/2" pivot collar. Sort of like a large head on a screw. Anyhow, I put serious pressure on it and was not able to make it budge. If was all metal, I would blowtorch it, but, I dont want to melt the g10 onto it, that would be counterproductive, lol.
Tuff owners, and people of spyderco, Mr. Schempp if you are around, or Sal, What is the deal with the pivot/ force required to open the blade on the Tuff? Is the pivot loctited in and not meant to be adjusted. If my blade is not easily opened by the thumbhole, is my model out of spec.
If so, she will be makeing the pilgramage to SFO. Please let me know!
As I mentioned in another thread, and a few other owners commented with similar experience, the Tuff has a really tight action and blade retention. Part of that is the heavy duty short lock bar putting pressure on the blade im sure. But it feels like the pivot could be a little looser. And therin lies the problem...
Nothing I do will break this pivot screw loose. Which makes me curious about its construction. Is it really all 1/2" threads and all? That would explain why I am having resistance with that much surface area to over come. Or as I picture it, one with a big head, with more traditional smaller screw like threads that fit into the corresponding large 1/2" pivot collar. Sort of like a large head on a screw. Anyhow, I put serious pressure on it and was not able to make it budge. If was all metal, I would blowtorch it, but, I dont want to melt the g10 onto it, that would be counterproductive, lol.
Tuff owners, and people of spyderco, Mr. Schempp if you are around, or Sal, What is the deal with the pivot/ force required to open the blade on the Tuff? Is the pivot loctited in and not meant to be adjusted. If my blade is not easily opened by the thumbhole, is my model out of spec.
If so, she will be makeing the pilgramage to SFO. Please let me know!
- razorsharp
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I think this is the culprit. I have taken apart a few Spyderco's (Delica 4 and UKPK) and both of them had loctite on the pivot screws.DCDesigns wrote: Is the pivot loctited in and not meant to be adjusted.
If I were you, I'd try a hair dryer or even a soldering iron. If you don't have any results that way, then it might be a good idea to contact W&R.
- JacksonKnives
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Soldering iron is a good way to heat just the fastener. You've still got to be careful, but the wide-coverage heat that a hair dryer/heatgun/torch gives off will basically always get the scales just as hot as the pivot.
Depending on the threadlock compound used, boiling water might be easier, and is much safer for G-10 or FRN scales; on hardwood or something with inlay I wouldn't try anything but the soldering iron.
Depending on the threadlock compound used, boiling water might be easier, and is much safer for G-10 or FRN scales; on hardwood or something with inlay I wouldn't try anything but the soldering iron.
—Daniel Jackson
I would have just left it alone. The pivot will break in with enough use and loosen up. My Military was super tight when i first got it, now the blade drops by gravity and is super smooth. It just takes some use.
Beyond all that i'm still of the opinion that they purposely set the pivots tighter than usual, along with designing the detent stronger than usual, to prevent this knife from being too easily flicked open. Otherwise, with the blade weighing as much as it does, anyone could inertia open this knife and it would become illegal in many places.
Beyond all that i'm still of the opinion that they purposely set the pivots tighter than usual, along with designing the detent stronger than usual, to prevent this knife from being too easily flicked open. Otherwise, with the blade weighing as much as it does, anyone could inertia open this knife and it would become illegal in many places.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
D1omedes wrote:I think this is the culprit. I have taken apart a few Spyderco's (Delica 4 and UKPK) and both of them had loctite on the pivot screws.
If I were you, I'd try a hair dryer or even a soldering iron. If you don't have any results that way, then it might be a good idea to contact W&R.
This. ^^^^^^^
Heat it up then turn the screw. A hair dryer should work.
Just so you know, I loosened the pivot on mine but all that did was let the blade lean towards the g10 handle side. It was still just as hard to open, the only difference was the blade wasn't centered. The spydie hole on this knife is mainly just for show as it is much easier to open the blade by using the fuller and a second hand. I really hope it gets easier to open because I love this knife but I also think that a pocket knife should be able to be opened with one hand relatively easily and if this isn't possible then that knife won't get much pocket time. time will tell.
Mine is definitely stiffer to open than most, but it's not prohibitively stiff. Just takes more effort to overcome the detent, then it glides open smoothly. It just can't be flicked. It also makes it a lot easier if you pinch the hole between your thumb and index finger to get past the detent. That's how I open a lot of knives left handed that have occluded Spyder holes.
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I've been carrying the Tuff for about a week now and have found that it is easier to open than when new but it is still harder than most of my Spydercos. I have found that I have adapted to the knife quite nicely. It will be difficult to open because it has more lock pressure than most blades. It is an attribute of having a folder this heavy and durable. The Lock bar is shorter and it has more tension on the lock than most framelocks. This knife was built to be harder, stronger, and more durable than regular knives. I'm afraid that you will have a harder time opening the knife at its best broke in state, that is the nature of this folder...Take care...Ed
Ed Schempp wrote:I've been carrying the Tuff for about a week now and have found that it is easier to open than when new but it is still harder than most of my Spydercos. I have found that I have adapted to the knife quite nicely. It will be difficult to open because it has more lock pressure than most blades. It is an attribute of having a folder this heavy and durable. The Lock bar is shorter and it has more tension on the lock than most framelocks. This knife was built to be harder, stronger, and more durable than regular knives. I'm afraid that you will have a harder time opening the knife at its best broke in state, that is the nature of this folder...Take care...Ed
Ed, i got mine today and im a believer!!!
stabs, prying, and chopping