Exactly David Sharpening is a breeze After I was through with the wood I just sharpened on an Arkansas translucent for about 60 seconds and it was pushcutting phonebook paper with complete ease What's really impressive to me this traditional tool steel keeps it's edge with this grind and configuration. It wanted to keep on cuttingEvil D wrote:That's one grind i have zero experience with. You basically just sharpen it freehand on stones right? What's the advantage over other grinds? Seems to me the idea is that you have a giant primary bevel, so you can lay it visibly flat on almost any flat stone and sharpen it.
I love the Enzo trapper knives too. Although it seems not a lot of people know about them, so glad to see your mention of it.Pockets wrote:Nice knife! I have an O1 Enzo Trapper that is similar. I agree that it cuts better with no microbevel, but if you cut anything other than wood, I recommend putting a small one on it. Otherwise, it might chip.
There is a group of people advocating that putting a micro-bevel on a Mora guts the performance. That is fantasy and has to be for a number of reasons, the first two obvious ones are :MachSchnell wrote: I might be missing out... so I may need to put it to a full Scandi past the micro bevel.
If they work for you is the final say, regardless of what is in theory, or regardless of what holds for other people, it is the knife in your hand and your experience which matters. Some people are really fond of the wide flat bevel because of the greater feedback in sharpening and it removes a lot of the frustration out of what can be a very aggravating task. If that is the case then use it regardless of what anyone says or finds. The only thing I would say is that it isn't really a hard thing to sharpen a narrow bevel and once you get past the feedback issue then you will notice how much faster a narrow bevel is to sharpen.dbcad wrote: I appreciate the logical thinking going on but for me the traditional grind and material seems to cut extremely well Again the Bushcraft is the sharpest edge I own
1095 gets a horrible name as it is used in some extremely cheap knives and thus often gets extremely cheap performance. Have you used any carbon steel from a decent ABS guy, or any custom maker who is sensible with it. Ideally try it at the max torsional peak which is about 65-67 HRC for a fairly unique experience in a cutting tool. There are no large carbides, the edge forms exceptionally sharp almost trivially, no significant burr formation, very hard, resists rolling very well, but yet no alloy carbide so it works readily even with basic stones.The Mastiff wrote:I've had some 1095 knives that performed like real dogs but I've yet to encounter one like that in O-1.
It's also used in some not so cheap knives with excellent performance. I have a bunch of Great Eastern Cutlery slipjoints using the stuff, and they do a good job with it. ESEE for fixed blades, and other companies... I don't think any of them go up to that RC 65 level, though.Cliff Stamp wrote:1095 gets a horrible name as it is used in some extremely cheap knives and thus often gets extremely cheap performance