Sharpening the Captain & Hawkbills?

[JD Spydo]

I've got what I believe is a good sharpening method for putting a razor edge on the C-111 Captain model. Albeit I am not so arrogant to the point to where I think mine is the only good method of doing that very unusual designed blade.

I would like to hear how all you owners of the C-111 Captain sharpen this most challenging blade design. Personally I mostly use my Spyderco 701 Profiles and occassionally I use the ceramic "cat's eye" stones that I have out of my old Spyderco Galley V sharpening system. I get it pretty sharp with those 2 great tools but I'm always looking to improve so I would like to hear how you all go about it.

Also while we're on the subject of curved blades you might also tell us any special methods you may have aquired for sharpening Hawkbills and other curved blades that you find demanding to sharpen. I'm not knowledgable of any videos on youtube or any other sources for sharpening the Captain so let's talk about it.

[jackknifeh]

I use an Edge Pro but you wouldn't want to get one of those just for recurve blades. That is unless someone was already thinking about an EP, they do these knives great. On recurves with not much curve the standard 1" wide stones work. But for recurves that are deeper the 1/2" wide stones are needed. Then you have all the other features of the EP.

I think they are done pretty easily with the Sharpmaker also using the same technique as normal.

Unless you want a "system" though I think the 701 profile stones are great. I have them and have used them for getting into a coupel of tight places other than normal knife sharpening.

You can also make a strop with a round surface for stropping the inside of recurves.

Jack

[JD Spydo]

I use an Edge Pro but you wouldn't want to get one of those just for recurve blades. That is unless someone was already thinking about an EP, they do these knives great. On recurves with not much curve the standard 1" wide stones work. But for recurves that are deeper the 1/2" wide stones are needed. Then you have all the other features of the EP.

I think they are done pretty easily with the Sharpmaker also using the same technique as normal.

Unless you want a "system" though I think the 701 profile stones are great. I have them and have used them for getting into a coupel of tight places other than normal knife sharpening

Jack

I've tried the Sharpmaker on 2 different occasions but my results have had more to be desired. I am very picky about my sharpening results. I am currently looking into either getting an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge sharpening system. I haven't decided which one I like best. My decision will be based on whether or not it can do unusual designs like the Captain and Reverse S blades.

I've been clamping the Captain to a table with the blade sticking out toward me and I've been using some 1/4 inch thick rubber material on both side of the folder to protect from being harmed by the welding clamp I use to secure it to the table or workbench.

I also sometimes try my luck/skill at doing the pendulum end on a Spyderco 302 Benchstone. When I get the angle just right it puts a very scary edge on the end part of the blade. It's a bit time consuminng but if you get it right the ultra fine stone has an unbelievable effect on the edge.

I have used the Sharpmaker with the diamond stone to reprofile the inner arch part of the blade on the Captain with fairly good results. But I do find the 701 Profiles to have a really good finishing effect.

[chuck_roxas45]

I've used the edge pro to rebevel a superhawk and a zt 301 and a zt 200. I was able to do it with the stock stones.

[JD Spydo]

I've used the edge pro to rebevel a superhawk and a zt 301 and a zt 200. I was able to do it with the stock stones.

Interesting Chuck: Have you also used the unit to do any "Reverse S" blades? and how did it do on the Superhawk? The reason I ask because I've had trouble grinding in adequate relief for putting a secondary edge on some Hawkbills using many of the sharpening devices.

Also Chuck have you ever sharpened a Captain model? If so what sharpening tool did you use?

And folks please do realize that I'm not confining this thread to only talk about sharpening the Captain. Because Hawkbills and Reverse S blades have special challenges when it comes to sharpening them properly.

[chuck_roxas45]

Sorry, no reverse S's and no captains JD.

Here's a pic of my superhawk.

[JD Spydo]

Sorry, no reverse S's and no captains JD.

Here's a pic of my superhawk.

That Edge Pro and Wicked Edge systems both do a beautiful finishing job. It just makes me frustrated that they never offered up the Superhawk with a Spyderedge

I really appreciate that they did a Hawkbill with just a slight angle like they did with the Superhawk. Again that is really a nice sharpening job and it looks like it did an excellent job of grinding in the necessary relief to attain the razor edge which makes Hawkbill blades so awesome for all kinds of cutting jobs.

Great photo Chuck and thanks for sharing it with us.

Come on folks I know I'm not the only Spyderville citizen that ever did an extensive job sharpening the C-111 Captain model.

[chuck_roxas45]

Thanks and if the curve of the superhawk was much deeper, I would not have been able to do it with the stock stones.

[Donut]

You might be the only spyderville citizen that ever did an extensive job sharpening the C-111 Captain model.

I've only carried mine a few times and never had to sharpen it.

[JD Spydo]

You might be the only spyderville citizen that ever did an extensive job sharpening the C-111 Captain model.

I've only carried mine a few times and never had to sharpen it.

Well Donut I'm flattered and humbled at the same time but I do find it very difficult to believe with all the afficionados and regular users that own the C-111 Captain model that I would be the only Spyderville Citizen that has ever sharpened that model :confused:

I'm even surprised that there are no YOUTUBE or GOOGLE videos on the subject.

I guess many people regard the Captain as a novelty knife or strictly a collector piece>> but I actually use mine on occasion as well as carry it for SD when I'm out in the evening. I'm wondering how Jason Breeden ( designer of the Captain) sharpens his?

And there is just never enough information on Hawkbills and Reverse S blades. I believe that there are probably at least a half a dozen good methods for sharpening the Captain. And I'm sure that there is a device that excels at sharpening Hawkbills.

[xceptnl]

...Because Hawkbills and Reverse S blades have special challenges when it comes to sharpening them properly.

I agree with your statement about special challenges. I too use the 701MF profile pair to sharpen my recurves and hawkbills. When the going gets tuff I have a DMT 4" semi-round stone for the aligner that is 25 micron and really seems to get that bevel set quickly. I still use it freehand along with the 701s. I have been looking into trying the DMT flexi-sharp pieces and mount them to a semi-circular wood bat along with some leather. This will allow me to sharpen and strop all on one tool.

On a second note, does anyone remember the 702MF from Spyderco? I wonder how hard these are to find?

[JD Spydo]

I agree with your statement about special challenges. I too use the 701MF profile pair to sharpen my recurves and hawkbills. When the going gets tuff I have a DMT 4" semi-round stone for the aligner that is 25 micron and really seems to get that bevel set quickly. I still use it freehand along with the 701s. I have been looking into trying the DMT flexi-sharp pieces and mount them to a semi-circular wood bat along with some leather. This will allow me to sharpen and strop all on one tool.

On a second note, does anyone remember the 702MF from Spyderco? I wonder how hard these are to find?

Funny you would mention those Spyderco model 702MF stones>> yes I do have a pair of those. But they are the same as the 701 set except they are about half as long.. I haven't used mine on the Captain but I might try them to see if I can get a better, more controlled angle.

That's interesting you mention DMT's "Aligner" system. You're not the only one I've had to tell me that the "Aligner" does a good job on unusual blade shapes and designs. I may just be checking that out very soon. Thanks for the great input Brother

[xceptnl]

Funny you would mention those Spyderco model 702MF stones>> yes I do have a pair of those. But they are the same as the 701 set except they are about half as long.. I haven't used mine on the Captain but I might try them to see if I can get a better, more controlled angle.

That's interesting you mention DMT's "Aligner" system. You're not the only one I've had to tell me that the "Aligner" does a good job on unusual blade shapes and designs. I may just be checking that out very soon. Thanks for the great input Brother

The aligner has a downfall. After a quick search of the DMT website and then Amazon, the semi-curved piece is nowhere to be found. I do know that the small spear-like serrated part works well too on the aligner or freehand with the recurves. I edges of the 4" stones wil also serve the same function as the edge of the profile or sharpmaker stones, but only on larger sweeping curves. I find that the work terrific for me on the spyderhawk. I love honing my freehand skills on the 701s, but i do still love the aligner for its compact size and capability. Once you have a blade reprofiled on the aligner you can always come back to it for quick touchups with minimal material loss (provided you document your clamp location). Happy sharpening brother.

[jackknifeh]

I agree with your statement about special challenges. I too use the 701MF profile pair to sharpen my recurves and hawkbills. When the going gets tuff I have a DMT 4" semi-round stone for the aligner that is 25 micron and really seems to get that bevel set quickly. I still use it freehand along with the 701s. I have been looking into trying the DMT flexi-sharp pieces and mount them to a semi-circular wood bat along with some leather. This will allow me to sharpen and strop all on one tool.

On a second note, does anyone remember the 702MF from Spyderco? I wonder how hard these are to find?

I got some of the flexi-sharp from DMT. If you call them you can get different sizes than the ones listed. They don't list a 4" length that I know of. I got some coarse grit and carved a piece of wood like the DMT recurve stone. Then I glued the DMT peice to it. It is stiffer then I thought and a little difficult to bend significantly without it creasing. It does work if you are careful. You need good glue to hold it to the wood because bending it at that radius puts a lot of stress on the flexi-sharp. The coarse grit will really reprofile a recurve. I would suggest "breaking-in" the flexi-sharp before bending it and attaching it to a curved surface. That way its easier to break in the entire surface area. I thought about getting enough to make a couple of recurve stones for my EP but I sold my recurve knives. But the 1/2" wide EP stones work great.

Jack

[JD Spydo]

This is starting to make a lot of sense to me. I've always liked diamond rods and/or stones for reprofiling and it just makes perfect sense especially for Hawkbills. Because Hawkbills are definitely a bit tougher to reprofile because of the angle you have to work at them with. It certainly takes more concentration to get them at the right angles and not to remove too much stock especially at the tip of the blade.

I also find the pendulum end of the Captain model to be also a bit tricky to reprofile because of it's convex working edge. I can see diamond having a distinct advantage over other abrasives because of better control in a hard working area and not necessarily because of it's faster stock removal although that is also a good thing as well.

[tikkidaddy]

Funny you would mention those Spyderco model 702MF stones>> yes I do have a pair of those. But they are the same as the 701 set except they are about half as long.. I haven't used mine on the Captain but I might try them to see if I can get a better, more controlled angle.

That's interesting you mention DMT's "Aligner" system. You're not the only one I've had to tell me that the "Aligner" does a good job on unusual blade shapes and designs. I may just be checking that out very soon. Thanks for the great input Brother

Try DMT Sarrated hand style ice pick shaped sharpener, great for curves and spyderedge as well.

[Sht]

Something I learned about using the sharp maker on recurves is that you can still use the flats unless it's a deep recurve. When you do have that really deep recurve & use only the corners use super light pressure on the last 1/3 of your strokes. It's. It as good as going to the flats but it bridges the gap a little.

[JD Spydo]

Try DMT Sarrated hand style ice pick shaped sharpener, great for curves and spyderedge as well.

I have about 4 of the conical shaped DMT tools for doing serrations and so forth>> is that the one you're referring to? Because if it is I don't think it would do what I want it to because none them remove stock very fast at all.

However you all do have my curiosity going and I am going to be cruising DMT's webpage today when I get the time just to see what's available and what they have to offer which might work.

The older "CAT's EYE" fine ceramic stones that came with Spyderco's older GALLEY V (circa 1998-2000) sharpening kit are great geometry wise>> if they made a set of those diamond impregnated that would be an excellent tool to reprofile recurves, Reverse S and Hawkbills.

[jackknifeh]

I have about 4 of the conical shaped DMT tools for doing serrations and so forth>> is that the one you're referring to? Because if it is I don't think it would do what I want it to because none them remove stock very fast at all.

However you all do have my curiosity going and I am going to be cruising DMT's webpage today when I get the time just to see what's available and what they have to offer which might work.

The older "CAT's EYE" fine ceramic stones that came with Spyderco's older GALLEY V (circa 1998-2000) sharpening kit are great geometry wise>> if they made a set of those diamond impregnated that would be an excellent tool to reprofile recurves, Reverse S and Hawkbills.

I have called DMT a couple of times and gotten very fast help on the need I had. Once was finding out I could get the flexi-sharp sheets in different sizes then are listed in a catalog or on the web site. You might try calling them. They are great to deal with. Also, they used to have a fine grit recurve 4" stone for the aligner and still do but I think they have a coarse one now too. Also they have different grits for the serrated edge sharpeners with the folding handle for storing. I have one of those. The handle is about as cheap as you can get but it works. :)

I feel DMT is as dedicated to quality products as Spyderco is and that's saying a lot.
I recently got a 4 grit set of 6" bench stones and am exceptionally happy with them. The extra-fine grit puts a very nice edge on a knife. Plus the set was around $80 which I thought was a great deal. stones come in a wooden box. NOTE: I still prefer Spyderco's fine and especially UF ceramic stones for finishing an edge.

Jack

[JD Spydo]

I have called DMT a couple of times and gotten very fast help on the need I had. Once was finding out I could get the flexi-sharp sheets in different sizes then are listed in a catalog or on the web site. You might try calling them. They are great to deal with. Also, they used to have a fine grit recurve 4" stone for the aligner and still do but I think they have a coarse one now too. Also they have different grits for the serrated edge sharpeners with the folding handle for storing. I have one of those. The handle is about as cheap as you can get but it works. :)

Jack

Those "serrated edge sharpener's" you just mentioned are the ones I'm talking about>> they are conical shaped and they fold up on those plastic guard/handles. I've even got a couple of those conical serrated edge sharpeners of theirs in ceramic and they are a nice handy tool for some specialized sharpening jobs.

I have recently had a couple of the guys here at Spyderville tell me that there is a company by the name of "Atomas" who also have super high quality diamond sharpening tools as well. I've had really great luck with the 3M Diamond stones and specialized diamond sharpening files of theirs as well. And you don't hardly ever hear anyone talk of 3M at all. But I've never had any kind of an abrasive tool I've got from 3M to be nothing but super quality. Texas Knifemaker supply is who I got most of my 3M stuff from.

When I get time this next week I'll call DMT and see what they can tell me over the phone. JD