I just ordered a Sharpmaker along with the diamond and extra fine stones.
I've been reading for two months, and I think maybe I figured out how to go abut using it. The difference between the edge and back bevels was very confusing. Downloading the Sharpmaker PDF file helped some.
Sometimes I feel like a little kid listening to the old expert saying "Ya just gotta know".
For maintaining my Delica, Endura, and Military I should just need to touch up with 40 degrees - right? Unless the bevels are really off from the factory?
I just don't want to mess my blades up, and have to spent several months learning how to fix them.
I also have a CRKT chisel edge, a Buck 110, and a Ka-Bar marine knife I want to sharpen. Any advise for these?
Ordered a Sharpmaker
Ordered a Sharpmaker
Ladybug, Delica x 2, Endura x 2, Military Black, Manix 2 XL, Civilian, Harpy, Caly 3.5 CF ZDP-189, Sage 1
Yea pretty much all you'll need with a decently sharp knife are the fine and ultra fine stones in the 40 degree slots. It's amazing how well it works if you keep the knife straight up n done consistently as you stroke it.
Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure... than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much, because they live in a gray twilight that knows not victory nor defeat.
Theodore Roosevelt
Theodore Roosevelt
Congrats on the sharpmaker. It comes with a DVD, just watch it a few times
and follow what Sal says. I have had one a few years and still watch it everyonce
in a while. (It's kind of like how you stop and watch Jaws when Quint is talking about
the Indianapolis, even thought you have seen it a thousand times)
I have found that if I touch my knives up every once in a while, rather than let them
get too dull, then it doesn't take long at all. Also, I just use the 40 degree slots and
work from course down to fine. I don't use the diamond ones unless a blade is really
bad.
Personally, I don't go crazy on all of the fancy sharpening like many here do. Nothing
wrong with it all, but I use my knives regularly and can get them plenty sharp using
the sharpmaker and the 40's. I sharpen until I can slice strips of paper off a normal
8.5x11 sheet. I used to shave hair off my arm and leg as a guide, but I have no hair
left, so paper has to work.
and follow what Sal says. I have had one a few years and still watch it everyonce
in a while. (It's kind of like how you stop and watch Jaws when Quint is talking about
the Indianapolis, even thought you have seen it a thousand times)
I have found that if I touch my knives up every once in a while, rather than let them
get too dull, then it doesn't take long at all. Also, I just use the 40 degree slots and
work from course down to fine. I don't use the diamond ones unless a blade is really
bad.
Personally, I don't go crazy on all of the fancy sharpening like many here do. Nothing
wrong with it all, but I use my knives regularly and can get them plenty sharp using
the sharpmaker and the 40's. I sharpen until I can slice strips of paper off a normal
8.5x11 sheet. I used to shave hair off my arm and leg as a guide, but I have no hair
left, so paper has to work.
that is what I do. I try to keep all of my knives at a certain level. The other day on vacation, I bent up the edge on my Ontario Rat 1, slicing potatoes on some kind of glass/ceramic cutting board. Anyway, I had to straghten the edge up with a diamond stone, then I finished up with the sharpmaker, since I had it out I also touched up the Native.
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dalefuller
- Member
- Posts: 469
- Joined: Sat Feb 26, 2005 1:37 pm
- Location: Atlanta
The 40 deg setting should work fine. It will give you a very sharp edge, especially with the UF rods, and it should still be a pretty robust edge at 40 degrees. The 110 will also work well on the Sharpmaker, although you may need to do a little more work to get the initial 40 degree bevel set. I would also stick with 40 degrees on the Kabar, but again, it may take some work to set the initial 40 degree bevel. For the CRKT, you may want to flip the Sharpmaker over and use it as a benchstone to sharpen the angled side of the blade freehand, then just knock the burr off the back side and you should be done. At least, that's how I used to do my Emersons.jnichols2 wrote:... For maintaining my Delica, Endura, and Military I should just need to touch up with 40 degrees - right? Unless the bevels are really off from the factory?
Regards,
Dale
"If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went."
~ Will Rogers, 1879-1935
Dale
"If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went."
~ Will Rogers, 1879-1935
Those glass cutting boards are very tough on an edge. I don't know who invented them -- I guess the intent was to have a surface that doesn't hold bacteria -- but they should never have been sold! My mother-in-law had one, and she just didn't understand why her kitchen knives were so dull. Anytime I would go visit her, I would take my Sharpmaker and fix up the edges on her kitchen knives :) .docwatson wrote:that is what I do. I try to keep all of my knives at a certain level. The other day on vacation, I bent up the edge on my Ontario Rat 1, slicing potatoes on some kind of glass/ceramic cutting board. Anyway, I had to straghten the edge up with a diamond stone, then I finished up with the sharpmaker, since I had it out I also touched up the Native.
Which Knife, A or B? get Both! (and C, D and E) :)
Received the Sharpmaker this evening - it was a success.
First, tried the CRKT chisel edge. It was very dull, and the edge looked real bad from trying to sharpen it.
Followed the DVD, and it only got a little sharper. The edge still looked bad. How many folks here said the Sharpmaker doesn't work on a dull knife? A sharpie revealed it was hitting the shoulder, not the edge. After 40 strokes with the diamond stone it looked better. Then following the DVD got it sharp enough to cut paper. That's sharper than it's been in years, and definitely sharp enough for use.
Next came my Military that was dulled cutting many large boxes. Following the DVD got it sharp enough to shave hairs.
My Delicas, Enduras, and Ladybug still shave. I'll leave them alone for now.
Next will be the Ka-Bar and Buck 110. I expect good results, they're in much better shape than the CRKT was.
I have read both good and bad about the Sharpmaker. It definitely seems to give positive results for me. I'm very happy.
First, tried the CRKT chisel edge. It was very dull, and the edge looked real bad from trying to sharpen it.
Followed the DVD, and it only got a little sharper. The edge still looked bad. How many folks here said the Sharpmaker doesn't work on a dull knife? A sharpie revealed it was hitting the shoulder, not the edge. After 40 strokes with the diamond stone it looked better. Then following the DVD got it sharp enough to cut paper. That's sharper than it's been in years, and definitely sharp enough for use.
Next came my Military that was dulled cutting many large boxes. Following the DVD got it sharp enough to shave hairs.
My Delicas, Enduras, and Ladybug still shave. I'll leave them alone for now.
Next will be the Ka-Bar and Buck 110. I expect good results, they're in much better shape than the CRKT was.
I have read both good and bad about the Sharpmaker. It definitely seems to give positive results for me. I'm very happy.
Ladybug, Delica x 2, Endura x 2, Military Black, Manix 2 XL, Civilian, Harpy, Caly 3.5 CF ZDP-189, Sage 1
I just got a Sharpmaker also. One question, how much play should the stones have when installed in the base. Mine have quite a bit of wobble to them. Is this normal? I am able to tighten them up a bit by putting a piece of paper towel around bottom of the stones as I press them into the base.
Thanks,
Marty
Marty