Spyderco Warranty Experience

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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MrGlockJock25
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Spyderco Warranty Experience

#1

Post by MrGlockJock25 »

Just called Spyderco about warranty on my Para 2. The lock is very sticky and takes a lot of pressure to close. They told me to ship it and send $5 for shipping back. IMO I shouldn't have to pay for shipping for warranty. It's not my fault. Don't get me wrong I love Spyderco I just wish that didn't just happen over the phone. What do you think? Also any solution for a sticky lock in Para 2. I don't want to send it in either unless it's major
jzmtl
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#2

Post by jzmtl »

You'll probably get it back exact the way it is and a letter telling you it's in spec, Spyderco warranty is one of the less generous among knife companies. I'd just put some pencil lead or graphite on the tang and save the shipping.
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Clip
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#3

Post by Clip »

How old is it? Have you tried to lubricate it?
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MrGlockJock25
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#4

Post by MrGlockJock25 »

3 weeks. Lubed it once.
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MrGlockJock25
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#5

Post by MrGlockJock25 »

Ya that's what I thought. I won't send it back. They kind of ticked me off. Won't keep me from buying spydies. The guy was a jerk to me to. Wish I would have gotten his name and hung up on him.
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jtoler_9
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#6

Post by jtoler_9 »

Check out the search feature here. I know there have been several threads in the past discussing sticky locks and workarounds. Oil and the good old pencil trick I remember were options.
As far as return shipping goes, if it's a new knife try working it out with the dealer you purchased it from. Most legitimate dealers are very nice and easy to work with.
I don't really see the point complaining about a Spyderco policy post purchase. It's out there already and we make the decision to buy knowing what it is. But that's my opinion. I'm confident that you can get a positive resolution. Cheers.
RIOT
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#7

Post by RIOT »

sounds like the lock works great, maybe you need sometime to break it in
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MrGlockJock25
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#8

Post by MrGlockJock25 »

It used to be smooth. Now it's sticky and takes almost to fingers to close.
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MrGlockJock25
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#9

Post by MrGlockJock25 »

No disrespect, but I see the point of complaining. When I pay $107 for a knife I expect it to work without flaws. But that's just my opinion.
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#10

Post by rycen »

Give it a bath in hot soapy water then try and see how the lock as excess lube can make the issue worse. Another option is to ask the dealer for a exchange.
We would rather be the knife in your pocket, because is "works" better, than the knife in your showcase, because it "looks" better.

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jtoler_9
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#11

Post by jtoler_9 »

MrGlockJock25 wrote:No disrespect, but I see the point of complaining. When I pay $107 for a knife I expect it to work without flaws. But that's just my opinion.
No disrespect taken. And I am not in disagreement with the idea of complaining when a product doesn't meet a customers expectations. I just don't see the point in hashing it out on a forum, that's the only point I was trying to make. There really isn't anything anyone on this forum can do to help out with a grievance regarding a shipping policy. I think that complaints are best settled between both parties involved. The old adage 2 is a company 3 is a crowd comes to mind.
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The Deacon
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#12

Post by The Deacon »

FWIW, the $5 check only gets cashed if they decide the knife does not have a valid warranty issue. Otherwise it's destroyed or returned to you, along with either the repaired knife or its replacement. Like those of us on the forum, the folks who answer the phone are not in a position to know, one way or the other, and the alternative would be the need for Spyderco to contact you in the event that W&R decides the knife is within specs. Which is not to suggest that it isn't a warranty issue, only to explain the reason why they request a $5 check as a matter of routine. Fact is, some folks can't seem to differentiate between a minor and harmless imperfection and a genuine defect. Then too, they've been sent more than one broken knife that turned out to be a fake. I also suspect another reason is as a "backup plan" for knowing who the knife belongs to in the event the sender forgets to include contact information.
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razorsharp
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#13

Post by razorsharp »

Loosen the stop pin, rotate it a quarter turn, flick it a few times, then tighten
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Onionman
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#14

Post by Onionman »

Paul's right. If its covered under warranty, they won't cash the check. I had problems with stiffness when opening my Caly 3.5, I sent it back with the shipping fee. Not only did they not cash the check, they also gave me an extra discount at the SFO because it took them a few weeks longer to get it back to me (sent it to them right before Christmas). The people I dealt with were great and I think they took very good care of me. My Caly 3.5 works great now with no recurring problems.
The important thing was that I had an onion tied to my belt, which was the style at the time. You couldn't get white onions, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big yellow ones...
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Blerv
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#15

Post by Blerv »

Sticky is pretty subjective. Just like play, Fit and Finish, and a number of knife buzz-words. I would probably try to tweak it myself w/o any disassembly.

I had my Dodo sprint fixed. It wouldn't close at all (that's extra sticky ;) ). My check wasn't cashed. They actually fixed the knife BUT it still made a clicking noise that was out of spec so I got a brand new one they had in stock.

Yea. Those Spyderco warranties suck. :mad:
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Evil D
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#16

Post by Evil D »

RIOT wrote:sounds like the lock works great, maybe you need sometime to break it in
Yep. Can't please everyone. A lock that's super easy to disengage, next thing you'd hear is that it isn't reliable. There's metal to metal contact happening. It takes time to wear and break in for the action to be perfect. The reason they ask for shipping is because too many people send in perfectly fine knives for no reason at all, only for them to have to ship them back. That costs them money and warranty or not they're not liable for things that are not out of spec. In all reality, some companies would charge you for the time they spent looking at something. Try taking a car to get worked on when nothing is wrong with it and see how fast the labor charges add up.
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Clip
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#17

Post by Clip »

Evil D wrote:Try taking a car to get worked on when nothing is wrong with it and see how fast the labor charges add up.
There isn't a problem I've met yet that I couldn't fix by throwing money at it!
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Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt

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Evil D
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#18

Post by Evil D »

Clip wrote:There isn't a problem I've met yet that I couldn't fix by throwing money at it!
Oh of course not, for the right price i'll find something wrong with a car that just rolled off the assembly line :D
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Jet B
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#19

Post by Jet B »

Try that stop pin trick mentioned above. Also pencil lead on the tang/lock face helps sometimes.
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#20

Post by Drkknight614 »

Where does the stick seem to be? I have some stick with my lock on my PM2. It seems it is sticking where the lock engages the blade. But maybe its the stop pin. Its nothing Im freaking out about because I can still operate the knife with one hand. It sticks more or less depending on how I deploy the blade. Slow and smooth it only sticks alittle, if I flick it as quick as I can it sticks much more. Not something I'm sending my knife in for though.
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