Who uses expensive hard use knives for hard use/work?

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Jet B
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#21

Post by Jet B »

Ankerson wrote:That depends on the edge geometry I would think for the most part in production knives.

If it's thinned out too much and there is side loading it's possible that chipping can happen. Then that also depends on what the edge comes in contact with also so things can vary.

One just has to match the edge geometry to the tasks at hand for the most part.

Thanks for your input Jim. I really value the wealth of information you have put out there for the community.
I was wondering lately if I should start running a 20 degree micro bevel or something like that. I currently put a 30 degree inclusive on most of my knives, but it would be easy to change things up. (I use a Wicked Edge).

I am fairly impressed with the edge strength of my Fallkniven F1 that I picked up recently (convex edge). I'll think about how I can sharpen my knives to maximize the edge for what I'm doing with them, which is quite often cardboard.
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mikerestivo
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#22

Post by mikerestivo »

I have an original Manix in foliage green that I treat like a borrowed mule. I plan on using my M390 CF Military and I ain't gonna baby it.

It depends for me. I'm not sure it's all about cost in my case. For some reason I have not had the heart to work my S90V CF Para 2 as hard yet. I can't bring myself to use my bolstered Persians for much, if at all. They are too pretty. It would be like asking the prom queen to clean my toilets or slop hogs.
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#23

Post by 2cha »

mikerestivo wrote:It would be like asking the prom queen to clean my toilets or slop hogs.
On the other hand, the prom queen who cleans toilets and slops hogs is probably the one to marry,...

I use about half my knives, cost isn't the factor where I choose to put a knife up so much as replaceability. I don't use my ATR Ti, for example, because replacing it would be a huge expense and hassle.

I occasionally rotate in a sebenza. I use it even though it is one of my more expensive production knives because if I break or lose it, I can easily replace it.
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#24

Post by Slash »

guilty
Art_vandeley
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#25

Post by Art_vandeley »

Me too. My Para 2 is currently my most expensive Spydie, and it gets used hard. I am a engineer trainee on a offshore vessel, so there is plenty of hard cutting to be done.
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#26

Post by phillipsted »

I carry all of my knives - I don't believe in safe queens. I'll think twice before using some of my knives for certain tasks, though.

Some of my knives have reached "retirement" age - like the Solo in my signature. It was my constant companion for over 10 years, and when it started to show a lot of wear, I decided to relegate it to formal use only. So I cleaned it up, sharpened it good, and only haul it out for special occasions.

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Ankerson
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#27

Post by Ankerson »

Jet B wrote:Thanks for your input Jim. I really value the wealth of information you have put out there for the community.
I was wondering lately if I should start running a 20 degree micro bevel or something like that. I currently put a 30 degree inclusive on most of my knives, but it would be easy to change things up. (I use a Wicked Edge).

I am fairly impressed with the edge strength of my Fallkniven F1 that I picked up recently (convex edge). I'll think about how I can sharpen my knives to maximize the edge for what I'm doing with them, which is quite often cardboard.
Edge finish will also effect that too.

I normally run 30 inclusive edges also, try running a coarser edge 1st and see how that works.
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Blerv
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#28

Post by Blerv »

Use and abuse share 60% the same letters :p

There is a fine line and often determined by the end line user. Further clarified by the warranty and repairs department if surpassed. I've never had to pry with any knife but light use with a degree of mechanical empathy makes me think it's fine as Jim said. Cutting abrasives like drywall could be seen as abuse but depends on your love of sharpening a dull edge.

I can't get behind a senseless thrashing. Unless you have a goal it seems a sad way to destroy a good tool. Especially when a $10 claw hammer would do the same job twice as quickly without breaking. ;)
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#29

Post by cckw »

I bought some hiking boots, but don't stress on days I put them on but am not hiking. I bought a radar detector but don't stress if I'm not speeding enough. I bought life insurance but have not been able to use it even a little bit in over 10 years and they take more money from me every month.
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#30

Post by Sonny »

Jackknifeh: I have the Manix2 CPM M4 and it's a nice knife, but it sits on my table. I carry and use the 20 CP PM2, as the lock is easy for me to operate. I may sell the Manix even though it's a beautiful knife and worthy of hard use. If I do, I've been looking at the Gayle Bradley in M4 also. Perhaps, though, a BM 755 MPR folder in M390. So many nice knives out there...
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Orion's Belt
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#31

Post by Orion's Belt »

My M390 Military is slated to be here next week and I plan on carrying it and using it. I'll probably solely carry it. That is, until my XHP Para 2 and 204P Para 2 get here, then they'll split the duties.
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#32

Post by rodloos »

When the fluted Ti millie was first announced and available for preorder, I didn't order one because I thought there was not way I would use a knife that expensive, or worse yet risk losing it. Now the CF M390 millies I bought were almost the same price if I recall, and I am carrying one in my pocket right now :) .

I believe in the right tool for the job though, and don't *abuse* my knives - I don't even like the thought of damaging an inexpensive little lady bug, it's the principle of the thing.

I carry a mini-prybar on my keychain which has been handy on a number of occasions, and for really tough cutting jobs I'll probably use a fixed blade. If I I'm cutting through knotty wood or feel like I need to baton heavily, I'll probably use an ESEE fixed blade which they'll replace if it breaks, but even there I'd say I won't really abuse it. That's what a splitting maul is for :) .
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razorsharp
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#33

Post by razorsharp »

I have used my PPT, Para2 M390 and delica to ****. So much so, I made the PPT and delica fail on me, this was for 'fun' ;) .

Para is amazingly strong, the fact its the $180 M390 one doesnt phase me

I am currently saving for a nice expensive Strider SMF CC to wail on. :D ($550- $600)
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Wildernest Survivor
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#34

Post by Wildernest Survivor »

I use my knives for outdoor activities - camping, bushcraft, woodcraft - as opposed to EDC uses. My current "champ" is the M390 Para2, and I don't think twice about using it hard. The Para2 just begs to be used. :D At $180 it's not my most expensive knife, but I would take quite a hit if I had to replace it suddenly. Knives, like all tools, have to be respected and used properly. If you don't, either the knife breaks or you end up breaking yourself. :( Using my knives just comes naturally, but I understand collecting them just for their beauty or monetary value. Be it my XHP Millie or Delica4, you can bet-on-it that they will all be happily used. :spyder:
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jackknifeh
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#35

Post by jackknifeh »

Sonny wrote:Jackknifeh: I have the Manix2 CPM M4 and it's a nice knife, but it sits on my table. I carry and use the 20 CP PM2, as the lock is easy for me to operate. I may sell the Manix even though it's a beautiful knife and worthy of hard use. If I do, I've been looking at the Gayle Bradley in M4 also. Perhaps, though, a BM 755 MPR folder in M390. So many nice knives out there...
Sonny
I have the Gayle Bradley and Manix2 with M4 both. I think if I had a knife that I used for the harder tasks that I come across like you do and had a Manix2/M4 that I didn't use I would rather have the GB than the Manix2. Both are tough knives but the GB also looks more people friendly IMO. Not that that matters to me a lot anymore. I've gotten tired of worrying about what people think about that. Still, if I have a GB and Chaparral on me I'll use the Chaparral if there are people around who think everyone who carrys a +3" blade knife is a serial killer. :) I'd either trade equally or sell the Manix2 and buy the GB. That's what I'd do as long as I could get a respectable price for the Manix2. I think they are still available on bentobox I think. Wait a sec. Ok, I just looked and they are still on bentobox. Howe's has the GB at a decent price now especially with free shipping in the US (if you are in the US).

Manix2/M4 or Gayle Bradley. Definately a tough choice. I have both and would pick GB. Others would feel differently I'm sure. It's a matter of personal opinion. Of course the best choice is to have both. I won't mention that because everyone knows it. :)

Gotten long winded again. I'll stop.

Jack
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#36

Post by enduraguy »

How do you classify "expensive"? I've known guys in the past who blew a whistle in the wind like a nice Lamborghini just drove by when I would mention my "$50 knife" I happened to have in my pocket. LOL. Then again, when I was in the Marines, I had no problem at all regularly using my Microtech UDT ($150 or so at the time), or my Halo II ($350 ish when I bought it). These days, the priciest knife I carry and use is my Para 2. I agree it is "easier" to use some knives more than others. Then again, factors such as perceived and emotional value, and even how long it may have taken a person to "afford" a knife may influence which knives we use.
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#37

Post by Wdr65 »

While I don't use as expensive of knives as some of you have mentioned I use an Endura ZDP for a little bit of everything at work. Most days it cuts nylon twine, 3 ply sisal twine, 1/2" and 2" nylon strap, burlap and small branches when I left my Felco's in my truck. I work in the field grown nursery industry and we're in the mud a good bit of the time while digging. So often a lot of this material is gritty but I haven't run across anything yet that I wouldn't hesitate to cut with my Endura. I will also carry a Ritter Grip some days and don't hesitate to use it either. The only one I do hesitate to use is my Stretch which I try to keep in great shape for skinning and hunting. I'm on the verge of buying another Para 2 (traded the last one) and it will probably take its place in the rotation with the Endura.
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jackknifeh
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#38

Post by jackknifeh »

enduraguy wrote:How do you classify "expensive"? I've known guys in the past who blew a whistle in the wind like a nice Lamborghini just drove by when I would mention my "$50 knife" I happened to have in my pocket. LOL. Then again, when I was in the Marines, I had no problem at all regularly using my Microtech UDT ($150 or so at the time), or my Halo II ($350 ish when I bought it). These days, the priciest knife I carry and use is my Para 2. I agree it is "easier" to use some knives more than others. Then again, factors such as perceived and emotional value, and even how long it may have taken a person to "afford" a knife may influence which knives we use.
What is expensive? Good question. Some people drop a penny and don't pick it up. Some people drop a $100 bill and don't pick it up (almost). Also people have limits on what they would spend on a particular item (knife, gun, car, etc.) A millionaire may only be willing to spend $30 on a knife. Probably why he's a millionaire. :)
Wdr65 wrote:While I don't use as expensive of knives as some of you have mentioned I use an Endura ZDP for a little bit of everything at work. Most days it cuts nylon twine, 3 ply sisal twine, 1/2" and 2" nylon strap, burlap and small branches when I left my Felco's in my truck. I work in the field grown nursery industry and we're in the mud a good bit of the time while digging. So often a lot of this material is gritty but I haven't run across anything yet that I wouldn't hesitate to cut with my Endura. I will also carry a Ritter Grip some days and don't hesitate to use it either. The only one I do hesitate to use is my Stretch which I try to keep in great shape for skinning and hunting. I'm on the verge of buying another Para 2 (traded the last one) and it will probably take its place in the rotation with the Endura.
Another good point is that you don't NEED to spend more than $100 for a knife to be durable and capable of hard work. Spyderco makes some of the best quality knifes I've seen (not that I've seen a lot). In addition to quality, Spyderco provides a great selection of high quality "value" knives for those who can't or won't spend a lot of money on something like a pocket knife. GO :spyder:

Jack
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Evil D
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#39

Post by Evil D »

So far the only thing i've found that i'm more cautious with is how i profile the edge so i don't waste any more steel than i need to. When i recently started using my Edge Pro, something happened and i'm not sure what, but the bevel on my 20CP kept getting lower and lower and it really got under my skin because no i have this ~20ish degree back bevel that i didn't want. Other than that i've used it for anything i would have used my S30V knives for. What makes a difference for me is there are some things i just won't use a knife for at all regardless of how expensive or cheap it was. I wouldn't use my SAK's for scraping a gasket surface on my car even though the knife itself is fairly cheap and easy enough to sharpen...because there's a proper tool to use for that task. The prying issue has never made sense to me because i can't remember the last time i had to pry anything. Lately though i've been thinking more and more about getting a small stout fixed blade like an Izula for situations where i don't have the proper tool and i have to get a job done one way or another.
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chuck_roxas45
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#40

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

What about making a knife fail just for fun? :p
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