How do I fix this?

ShawnKirkpatrick · #1

I sent my delica 4 FFG back to get sharpened and I got it back yarsterday. So I was looking at the blade and I notice the tip looked like each side was sharpened at a different angle. So I marked the edge with a marker and used the sharpmaker on one side and it took all the marker off, and when I sharpened the other side it didn't take the marker off all the way. I'm not an expert but I guess the one side was sharpened at less than a 30° angle. So how do I fix this? Thank You.

DCDesigns · #2

Just wondering, if you know how to sharpen knives, why on earth would you send one back to be sharpened? The factory edge is not anywhere near the best, and the fact that they use grinders leaves you with an over heated edge that will micro-chip with most steels until you sharpen them by hand, removing the steel the grinder over heated. So basically you will have to sharpen it a lot by hand in order to make up for the weakend edge resulting from the grinding. As you can see since one side is off, send knives to be sharpened, not always the best option.

You are going to just have to continue removing stock with the coarse stones until you get each bevel equal...

jabba359 · #3

ShawnKirkpatrick wrote:So I marked the edge with a marker and used the sharpmaker on one side and it took all the marker off, and when I sharpened the other side it didn't take the marker off all the way. I'm not an expert but I guess the one side was sharpened at less than a 30° angle. So how do I fix this?

It could be greater or less than 15° on that side (not 30° like you said, because both sides should add up to a total of 30°, or 15° per side). If it took off the marker near the top, then it is more than a 15° angle, if it only removed the marker from the bottom edge, then you are narrower than 15°. Only way to "fix" it is to spend lots of time on the sharpmaker reprofiling it. If it's sharp, then you can just use it as is and hit it with the 40° every once in a while to keep it sharp.

ShawnKirkpatrick · #4

Yeah that's what I meant haha. It is sharp on one side and the other side is not AS sharp. If I want to reprofile it what angle do I use? And do I do it on both sides or just the one that is less than 15°?

jabba359 wrote:It could be greater or less than 15° on that side (not 30° like you said, because both sides should add up to a total of 30°, or 15° per side). If it took off the marker near the top, then it is more than a 15° angle, if it only removed the marker from the bottom edge, then you are narrower than 15°. Only way to "fix" it is to spend lots of time on the sharpmaker reprofiling it. If it's sharp, then you can just use it as is and hit it with the 40° every once in a while to keep it sharp.

Blerv · #5

The final sharpening by Spyderco is done on a belt. The secondary bevel/grind is unlikely to be completely symmetrical but 99% of the time will be effectively sharp.

Reprofiling isnt easy but isn't impossible. A quality local shop, Spyderco, or you can do this with the right gear. Goodluck.

BAL · #6

I have used the marker test on mine before sharpening and have noticed the difference between one side and the other. Basically, I just sharpened it until it cut the hair off of the wife's legs, did I just say that, I meant off of my leg and keep using it, sharpening when needed etc. It may take a bit of work to get it even, but to me if it is cutting hair it's good to go.

jackknifeh · #7

Sending a knife to Spyderco seems to be hit and miss as far as the results. I say that based on comments on this forum. I'd say 90% of the comments are good or great. That is only dealing with the level of sharpness though. The accuracy of the angles is never consistant compared to using a sharpener where the angles can be controlled. Any assembly line doesn't have the time to produce a really perfect edge with accurate angles. They just don't have the time that it takes. The only goal is sharpness at what may be called standard angles. The truth is, no matter what angle I've seen on a Spyderco knife NEVER hindered performance. I have seen a few that were not sharp though and I mean not sharp by anyone's standards. If you send them a knife to pay attention to on a per-knife basis I'd expect the knife to come back razor sharp no matter what the angles are. But, if you want the angles to match your sharpmaker you will need to profile the edge with the Sharpmaker. If one side (or both) is lower than 15 deg. you would need to remove enough steel to create a bevel from the very edge to the top of the existing bevel. That could be a LOT of steel. Also I wouldn't worry about that so much. Being a lower angle will make the knife cut better. The flip side is if one side has an angle higher than 20 degrees. Then your Sharpmaker won't hit the edge at all and you are definately in for some time re-profiling the edge (or send it to someone). I recently sharpened a brand new Spyderco that had one side of the edge at 26 deg. on one side alone. The bevels were pretty even and the knife was pretty sharp but nothing for Spyderco to brag about. When they do good work it is very good work. This knife was not an example of good sharpening. It took me around 3 hours to get the edge to have a 15 deg. per side back bevel and 18 deg. edge bevel with a pretty nice polish. That edge will touch up easily on a Sharpmaker set to 40 degrees. I have some pretty aggressive stones also so you would need the diamond stones for the Sharpmaker to do any serious re-profiling.

I'm not trying to put Spyderco down at all. When you buy a knife it will need to be sharpened sooner or later so if it isn't razor sharp when brand new you will just need to sharpen it sooner (or have someone else do it). I will say that if I spent a lot on a knife and it wasn't sharp and I didn't know how to sharpen a knife I'd be more upset than I am now since I can sharpen.

Back to your question of how to fix. If the edge is too low you will need to sharpen it until the lower angle is no longer visible. Depending on how bad the edge is you could end up removing enough steel to shorten the blade by maybe 1/16" or so. My advise is to let someone else do it who has the tools to accurately put a 15 deg per side bevel on the edge. Then when you touch it up on the Sharpmaker you can set it to the 40 deg angle and be in great shape.

Good luck,
Jack

unit · #8

I did not read all the responses, but if the knife is sharp...what are you trying to fix?

Simply put, the knife is a user and not a collector (you have obviously used it and had it sharpened). It has little to no collector value, but has HIGH value as a tool. No one else will notice this slight disparity in grind angle (and if they do, why would they care).

If it is sharp, and does what you need it to, use it. If not, send it back in for inspection.

ChapmanPreferred · #9

I would simply use the knife and sharpen at 40 degrees when required. After the 10th time touching up the edge at 40 degrees, I would back bevel on 30 degrees for about 50 strokes per side per step (I like a fairly smooth back bevel). In time your angles will match up just fine. I would not loose sleep over the slight variation in angle from the factory/factory service.

chuck_roxas45 · #10

unit wrote:I did not read all the responses, but if the knife is sharp...what are you trying to fix?

Simply put, the knife is a user and not a collector (you have obviously used it and had it sharpened). It has little to no collector value, but has HIGH value as a tool. No one else will notice this slight disparity in grind angle (and if they do, why would they care).

If it is sharp, and does what you need it to, use it. If not, send it back in for inspection.

Ken is right about this. I know that most of us are anal about our spydies but just use it and you'll find that it works as it is and it won't bother you as much the more you use it.

dsmegst · #11

I think the OP is saying that the angles are different enough that using the 30 degrees setting on the Sharpmaker is only effective on one side. In this case, there is a need to thin out the opposite side if he plans to sharpen at 30 degrees.

OP, you could go to a 40 degree micro bevel and worry about back beveling later. Unless you can rig something coarser, thinning out on the Sharpmaker will be tedious. Next time you feel like sending some knives out for sharpening, look to Richard J.

.357 mag · #12

Right now my endura's back bevel is at 12 degree per side because one side was that low. The other side was at 16 degrees. So I just matched them up and micro bevel at 20.

jackknifeh · #13

.357 mag wrote:Right now my endura's back bevel is at 12 degree per side because one side was that low. The other side was at 16 degrees. So I just matched them up and micro bevel at 20.

I'll bet if that is a FFG blade it is a slicing god at those angles. :D

Jack

.357 mag · #14

jackknifeh wrote:I'll bet if that is a FFG blade it is a slicing god at those angles. :D

Jack

it is Jack. :-)

I cut a bunch stuff yesterday. Everything from food prep to rope and boxes. ( yes I washed the knife between) :D . I got it pretty dull ( for me) and didn't have time to touch it backup. Its back in my pocket today and still slices better than anything that i own.

jackknifeh · #15

.357 mag wrote:it is Jack. :-)

I cut a bunch stuff yesterday. Everything from food prep to rope and boxes. ( yes I washed the knife between) :D . I got it pretty dull ( for me) and didn't have time to touch it backup. Its back in my pocket today and still slices better than anything that i own.

It's a good thing you washed the knife. You wouldn't want to get food on your boxes. :D

Jack

STAK · #16

:spyder: I think you want to achieve a (near)-perfect sharpened edge :eek: . . . . This can not be achieved if you have never tried to sharpen an edge before :cool: . . . . First find other threads that have been discussed that issue before and then try to begin learning by experience, or find a professional sharpener :D . . . . :spyder: